67 dart convertible trunk torsion spring length?

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Sagefisher36

Sagefisher36

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Hope someone out there can help, I can't find any convertible trunk springs so am going to cut/weld a set of abody springs
Looking for a measurement for the proper springs...the ones I have are 44 1/8 outside length
If anyone has a convertible set they could measure it would be really helpful
Thanks all

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Right this minute I don't believe the spring length changes. I'll go out and learn something tomorrow.
I've go a 67 notch back and a 67 vert here for examples.
 
Thanks Redfish
I tried another abody and they were also too long so I think the convertible ones may be narrower
If you could let me know that would be greatly appreciated
 
Well friend... first I must commend you for your most excellent question. I've grown soooo tired of the same questions repeated again and again here, especially those questions that are best answered by a factory service manual. Anyway... I guess you can tell the curiosity got the best of me. Yeah I went out in the dark with a tape measure and a flash light.
So the brackets in the vert body are 1&5/8 closer together than those in a notch.
The vert torsion spring is exactly 2 inches shorter than the spring in the notch.
next post will include a pic showing the vert torsion spring and tape measure ( didn't take the camera earlier, not enough pockets in jammies LOL ).
 
So the vert trunk torsion spring is exactly 42 inches outside its straight run as shown.
I have to say I have never had any success in welding high carbon tempered steel. Good luck

vert trunk torsion spring 01.JPG


vert trunk torsion spring 02.JPG
 
Wow I'm really impressed that you took the time to go out and grab the springs and measure them. Awesome!!
I have looked around to purchase a set of the springs but no luck so my only option is to try a weld. Either that or build some brackets and put gas shocks to keep trunk open.
Again thank you!!!
Chris
 
I'll admit I don't know everything. Hell I don't remember most of what I once knew.
So lets ask the metal workers what is the best plan. Do we cut and weld or do we heat to cherry red and water quench in steps to unbend and re bend to the shape we need?
That shortest end length at the square bends is about 2 inches so that would be the waste removed after all else is done.
Of course the clocking of the spring is to be maintained no matter which "method to the madness".
 
I had to read the reply a couple times to get what you referred to about the option of bending....I got it. Good option to think about instead of the cut weld that I was thinking.
Since its well below 0 C here and snow on the ground I don't have to rush :)
I will wait and see if anyone chimes in about the options and which would be successful
Thanks again
 
I have talked to somebody who took a set of hardtop springs and made convertible springs. He did not weld them, he straightened them and re-bent in the proper length (or so he told me). That takes heat, but it's a lot different than welding on them.
 
Thanks Jim
That is reassuring and might just be the direction I take.
I have access to migs and gas welding and can do either just want the better of the two so the trunk actually stays up
Thanks gents
 
Not trying to hijack your thread but am watching this with interest. My convertible springs are weak and don't hold the trunk open all the way. I was wondering if I could heat them and put a little more twist in them without killing them completely?
 
340doc said:
Not trying to hijack your thread but am watching this with interest. My convertible springs are weak and don't hold the trunk open all the way. I was wondering if I could heat them and put a little more twist in them without killing them completely?
Click to expand...
Are your torsion bars already adjusted to give you the most lift?
 
In re bending,,, to let the metal cool naturally is annealing so the temper is lost. You could then bend it, even drill a hole through it. To quench in water, oil, other, keeps much of the hardness.
And since someone questioned the spring strength... To heat at one end and increase the clocking or twist right there would be like altering 1 round of a coil spring. The trunk lid might jump off the latch when released but it would still have the weak spring float above quarter to half the travel. That twist was spread over much of the bars length.
 
Hello. I'm the the same boat with a '67 Dart Convertible with trunk springs that need help. Not sure which way to go here:
  1. Recondition. Is this possible? Any vendors do this?
  2. Custom make? Is this done anywhere?
  3. Install some coil spring helpers.
  4. Install some gas strut helpers.
I'm about to give up on options 1 and 2. Already gave up on buying from a yard. One thing I did that may help others was to create my own fourth notch. I know, kind of sketchy but I've run this for maybe 10 years and didn't have any problem other than it finally losing teh tension in that position. Definitely won't be stressing it any further.

Thanks in advance for any help.

IMG_3447.JPG
 
Cuda Notch bars are 42 inches.
Dart Hardtop are 44
Ive got a set of the 42's I can do for $40 plus shipping, if anyone is interested
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
Cuda Notch bars are 42 inches.
Dart Hardtop are 44
Ive got a set of the 42's I can do for $40 plus shipping, if anyone is interested
Click to expand...
So it looks like Chrysler used the notch bars in the Dart conv?? If I'm following correctly the Dart conv. rod is 42". If so I'll take them.
 
I recently went through this with one of my customers.
His original Dart Convert bars measured 41, but after doing some poking around, the number that keeps coming up is 42 for the vert.
Either way, it looks like the 42s will work.
Message me if you want these
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
Cuda Notch bars are 42 inches.
Dart Hardtop are 44
Ive got a set of the 42's I can do for $40 plus shipping, if anyone is interested
Click to expand...
Looks like I missed first dibs on these but I'm in need of a set for my 67 Dart Convertible. I still have the originals so I'm going to go measure them too.
 
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Pulled my original '67 Dart Convertible spring. This is definitely original to the car since I've had it since 1989 and it was on the second slot at that point and the color matches the car. So I see 41 1/4" total length. You've probably been over this before or even seen it work but it looks very likely to me that the 42" one would work. I would definitely take the chance on a pair of 42" springs.

I'm wondering though: does anyone know where the ones I see on classicindustries.com for the later years were made? It would be great if we could get them to do a run to fit these convertibles.

trunk_spring1.jpg


trunk_spring2.jpg
 
IMO I dont think 42 inches will work. Just my opinion...
 
I'm going to try the 42's Don't know if there's enough room to absorb the 1/2 inch per side. I'll let you know.
 
Maybe that I'm late to the party but others may find this helpful. Photos show common hinge wear area and hidden gas strut that clears convertible top down position. Gear clamps are so you can fine tune location before welding.
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Hinge.jpg

On left is what it is supposed to look like, Center is mine, on right is yours (flipped) but you can see how far the rod is moved

I bet the problem with your springs is not the spring is weak but the hole they should ride in is 1/2 to 1" back due to metal fatigue. My 67 convertible has the same issue but the brkt is worse than yours. if you haven't welded anything yet I would temp a brkt to move the elongated spring hole forward to its correct position and reinstall the springs.
 
I considered repairing the spring area but I had the strut laying around and it was done in 1/2 hr. Left it clamped as a temporary fix but it works so well I haven't bothered to re-visit it.
 
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