67 Turn signal switch wiring

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67/6barracuda

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Hello team, just got one of SlantSixDan’s signal switches last night. My original ‘67 is wired a bit different from the one I got. I did color for color as I replaced each wire in the connector. Since I can’t add pictures to show dan on the private messengers, I figure I’d post them up. Dan assured me it will work, but do to operator error I maybe hooking it up wrong. What you’re take on this?
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Here’s the connector, I replaced one wire at a time same color or close too.
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You can see the switches are wired different. I’m not sure if replacing each wire for the same color is right. Only because the location of the wires on the switch are different or is the internal part of the switch made different and therefore the color of the wire is correct.
 
The wires don't know what color they are! Follow the same path for each wire as the original and you'll be OK. Also, don't forget to thread the wire through the steering collar 1st.

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Hello team, just got one of SlantSixDan’s signal switches last night. My original ‘67 is wired a bit different from the one I got. I did color for color as I replaced each wire in the connector. Since I can’t add pictures to show dan on the private messengers, I figure I’d post them up. Dan assured me it will work, but do to operator error I maybe hooking it up wrong. What you’re take on this? View attachment 1715413119View attachment 1715413120Here’s the connector, I replaced one wire at a time same color or close too. View attachment 1715413125View attachment 1715413126You can see the switches are wired different. I’m not sure if replacing each wire for the same color is right. Only because the location of the wires on the switch are different or is the internal part of the switch made different and therefore the color of the wire is correct.


actually, that looks the same to me and I'm color blind. It's just that the new one has the wires "routed" differently. Am I missing something?


EDIT: Those crimp connectors are not factory and looks like someone "repaired" that original at some point. Just ring out the connections with a multimeter and you'll be golden.
 
Helpful tip. If you have any expandable braided sleeve for wiring harnesses, you can shove the wires and spades in it first then feed the braid down into the collumn and out the hole. Pull it through, with the wires and spades and you're done. makes it much less frustrating.
 
The wires don't know what color they are! Follow the same path for each wire as the original and you'll be OK.

Just map out the original and make a translation drawing, bam, done.

FWIW, here's a functional sketch based on the '67 Barracuda supplement.
prob the same as aDart and Valiant but I haven't verified.
As quoted above, the replacement colors may be different, especially if its a superceded switch cam. The later switches have the lane signalling feature so may look different. I think I've got a broken one I saved. Can dig it out this weekend if needed.

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I was really just interested in how the switch functioned so didn't include Cavity 4 which is for horn.
Also I did not verify with the wires on my '67. Just providing a starting point.

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Let's say you knew nothing about this switch, and nothing of the wire colors. It is easy to figure.

What you have is

1...one wire for brake power coming in

2...one wire for signal flasher power coming in

3....one wire for left rear brake

4....one wire for right rear brake

5....one wire for left front brake

6 one wire for right front brake
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With switch centered, the brake power in is connected to both rear lamps

Flasher power coming in is isolated. Both fronts are isolated

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With switch left, flasher power in is connected to left front and left rear

AND brake power in is ONLY connected to right rear

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With switch right, flasher power is connected to right front and right rear, and brake power in is only connected to left rear

Start with the switch in center. In this position, the brake power coming in is connected to the two rear signal/ brake lamps. So there will be 3 wires only that show continuity. Temporarily label them.

Now you need to determine what is flasher power versus brake power, versus front lamps

Make notes as you go and eliminate what doesn't "compute." Just use process of elimination.
 
All is well, as of today my turn signals are fully operational. Thanks Y’all for the help. Also thanks to slantsixdan for a quality switch, far better than those knock offs that I tried using prior.
 
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