68 valiant/ignition switch wiring

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furyfrank

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What I need is a diagram of the back of the ignition switch and the color of wires that go to it.
Thanks
 
"Somewhat useful" diagrams from MyMopar:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

Diagrams, 2 pages

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ValiantA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ValiantB.jpg

I don't know about an online '68 service manual, but a 69 can be had here and should be pretty close:

Don't thank me for the manual, thank AbodyJoe

[ame="http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/69%20dodge%20service%20manual.pdf"]http://www.abodyjoe.com/pictures/Misc.%20car%20info/69%20dodge%20service%20manual.pdf[/ame]
 
here is the back of the switch on my 67 dart right before i took it all apart to rewire it. hope this is what your looking for? the back of the ingition switch is labeled with where the wires go to. it will say:

bat +
grd.
ign1
ign2
rel

 
thanks for the wiring diagrams but I justneed a simple wiring of the ignition switch as to color and what they do, I had one but I lost it. It showed the back of the switch and the colors and where they went. The deal is somone wired a viper alarm intothe car ( I think they did it wrong ) so I am going to have a guy take it out and then check to see if the wires are right, also they put in apush button to start the car, which is why I don't think the alarm is installed the right way. I also got a new ignition switch if I needed it.
 
younggun2.0 said:
here is the back of the switch on my 67 dart right before i took it all apart to rewire it. hope this is what your looking for? the back of the ingition switch is labeled with where the wires go to. it will say:

bat +
grd.
ign1
ign2
Click to expand...
could you give me a picture of the switch without the connector ?
 
dont have one. and the switch is in the car now. if you google it you can find some pics. i actually found the best pics on ebay.
 
The wiring diagrams should look almost EXACTLY the same as the rear of your switch. Some switches are marked, as the one is above You can read the end of "IGN 1" near the blue wire

EDIT I removed the earlier "MyMopar" diagram I posted, it seems to have the yellow and black REVERSED
 

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67Dart273 said:
The wiring diagrams should look almost EXACTLY the same as the rear of your switch. Some switches are marked, as the one is above You can read the end of "IGN 1" near the blue wire

Here's a crop of one of the diagrams I posted earlier
Click to expand...

dude your the man. is there anything you dont know about or have a diagram for? lol
 
67Dart273 said:
The wiring diagrams should look almost EXACTLY the same as the rear of your switch. Some switches are marked, as the one is above You can read the end of "IGN 1" near the blue wire

Here's a crop of one of the diagrams I posted earlier
Click to expand...

Thanks that is what I needed. Is there anyway I can print just the image ( I am not good on a computer )
 
Re read my post. The "MyMopar" diagram appears to have the black and yellow reversed. (EDIT I REMOVED THAT DIAGRAM) But these switches should be marked, and an ohmeter should quickly resolve the problem

The 67 diagram below, the 69 diagram posted above, and the photo all agree. This is posted upside down to preserve perspective. Wire colors are

J3--brown

J2 dark blue

S2 yellow

J1 no 12 red

Q2 no 12 bl
 

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Hi guys,

This is obviously my first post. I'll put something on the site to introduce myself, but this topic is my immediate problem.

I have tried to 'hot wire' (legally) my new project which is an Australian 1966 VC V8 valiant.

The diagram and colours match my ignition switch, if I touch J3 and J1 together the engine turns over but does not start, there is a faint spark from one of the spark plug leads to earth.

I would like to eventually replace the key switch with a simple push button.

Can someone run me through what connects and in what order to what to start the engine under normal key turn ignition please?

Cheers,

Kirk
 
J3 and J1 should not result in the starter cranking, and that's assuming your southern cars are wired like "us Yanks."

The start wire is yellow and feeds power to the start relay when the shifter is in park or neutral. If a stick, ignore the latter about the shifter.

"Run" voltage to the ignition is dark blue, but the brown (J3) should be the coil resistor bypass. This gives you a hot spark for start

So what should happen is that you clip the brown to the red, THEN hookup yellow into the mix and the engine should crank and fire.

Drop off the yellow, and it should run with brown connected, but you should not run it long that way, as there is no coil resistor in circuit.

The switch would normally drop off the brown and connect the blue, which then supplies ignition power through the coil resistor.

I have no idea if you guy's cars are wired the same.
 
so today was the day, the battery finished the recondition charge I hooked it up and hotwired as per 67dart273's info, it turned over and started, music to my ears. Sounds nice and strong and did a quick lap of my work.

Thank-you very much.

I've ordered a new barrel with key so I can fix that little problem. I'll go for a switch and push button start, but to get the vehicle through South Australian roadworthy inspection, I need to have as much standard as possible.

I am looking at replacing the ignition with MSD digital ignition control 6AL #6425, pro billet dizzy #8534 and #8207 coil for $US473.19 and free postage, which is a lot cheaper than anywhere in Australia.

This car is cruiser, not a racer and I want reliability.
 
When you hook up the MSD pay attention to wiring destructions

Under the hood, you'll need to hook the IGN1 "ignition run" (blue) and the IGN2 "bypass" (brown) together, IE just hook everything on the old ballast resistor together. Then run the old coil + wire off to the "small red" wire on the MSD

This is because when your switch is in "start" the IGN run wire is dead. The only power to ignition is the brown lead.
 
Is it worth going for the e-curve dizzy with the 6AL or is it over kill for a street car? Am I also overkill with the 6AL and should go for 6A?
I don't have much plan for the 360 la, except maybe stroked to 408 and some decent heads/porting, but that maybe 5 years away.
 
younggun2.0 said:
here is the back of the switch on my 67 dart right before i took it all apart to rewire it. hope this is what your looking for? the back of the ingition switch is labeled with where the wires go to. it will say:

bat +
grd.
ign1
ign2
rel

Shaynas047.jpg
Click to expand...


Which wire would you tap into for a relay to run electric fuel pump?
 
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