70 dart swinger slant turbo build and mild restoration
- Thread starter jungles82
- Start date
-
Brandon Weaver
Well-Known Member
Oh no, it's possible. But I wouldn't set your goals by pressure. Instead, go for power or timeslips. If you build it right/efficient you won't need even 20psi. The fastest slant in the world only runs on 15psi (i believe). The most powerful slant in the world makes north of 600 horse with 17psi. But people have also thrown 28 pounds of boost to a slant and just barely breached 300hp. Read read and read before you buy anything though. Learn how to read turbo maps and size turbos. Either pay to have your head ported or learn to port on your own (slant heads are easy). Learn to size cams for turbo apps. I feel all of these are vital.
RustyPlymouth
Well-Known Member
it'll hold 20psi from an hx35 all day. as long as your tune is good.
I guess my project falls somewhere in the middle of all this. My turbo'd 225 made a run on 15 pounds of boost with a total weight of 3,000-pounds. The track was slick and my driver had to lift three times to avoid hitting the guardrail. The timeslip said 91.5 mph. This is an eighth-mile facility. I entered that info in the Wallace online automotive calculator and it came back that it requires 357 horsepower to turn that speed in an eighth-mile. Made me wonder what the result would have been if the driver had not had to lift three times... There was no time for a re-run.
The cars that I am aware of that run 225's with 28 pounds of boost make about 500 horsepower, according to the Wallace online calculator. They are the slant sixes that I copied as closely as I could when I built my motor. Both have flat tappet cams, a 5,500-rpm redline and use a Holley double-pumper, four barrel 4150-design, carburetor.
As I have said before, ~I~ didn't think this stuff up on my own; I'm just NOT that smart! Tom Wolfe in Michigan had already done this turbo 225 thing (as had Ryan Peterson) and I just copied what they had done. So far, I think it is an unqualified success. Next spring, I will return to the strip, hopefully with some bigger tires, and try to run an additional 5 pounds of boost for a better e.t. Pray for me...
rayer:rayer:rayer:So install turbo and do donuts [check] lol
Build it to what I want externally then make the internals withstand the externals?
I'm not going for biggest or baddest just something that's fun and drive able and different I'll probably never race it but I have a friend with a dyno
Build it to what I want externally then make the internals withstand the externals?
I'm not going for biggest or baddest just something that's fun and drive able and different I'll probably never race it but I have a friend with a dyno
If you could post what you think a desirable output level (horsepower) would be, you could make some serious plans, The limit for cast (stock) oistons would probably be about 12 pounds of boost; others think you can get away with running more, but for a daily driver, I think 12 pounds may be all you'd want to run. That would give you, probably, 300 horsepower (with an alcohol injector for charge-cooling,) and would probably put an A body into the top of the twelves, e.t.-wise. That may be fast enough for you, as it would probably outrn 90% of the V8 cars you'd be likely to encounter on the street. :cheers:
But, boost IS addictive, and sooner or later, you might well, want more performance. You'd need forged pistons and an O-ringed block for that.... and the right time to do it is NOW...... so you only have to do it once.
The Wiseco pistons are something over $400 while the 7" long K-1 rods that fit the piston deck height are a little over, six-hundred, so, there is about $1,100.00, plus about $200,00 for the O-ring cutter from Isky (it comes with the necessary wire.) A coppper, 1-piece head gasket is another $200.00, or so.
Not cheap, but good insurance, and will allow you to run 30 pounds of boost and make upwards of 500 horsepower, later, for quarter-mile speeds around 120-130mph. :blob:
You pays your money and, you takes your choice! :glasses7:
RustyPlymouth
Well-Known Member
for fun to drive you only really need to go above 10psi. that is the gate where it goes from this is kinda neat to i can't believe this is a slant. if that is as far as you wanna go you might wanna think about a smaller turbo for faster spool and better efficiency. those hx's like it up around 20+psi and take a little while to spool.
I would be happy with 150hp lol I would probably need new shorts with 250-300 with a slant
Didn't get much done but drove up north and picked up a bunch of duster dart and valiant and scamp sheet metal for a good deal it was a take one take all deal
Didn't get much done but drove up north and picked up a bunch of duster dart and valiant and scamp sheet metal for a good deal it was a take one take all deal
kesteb
Well-Known Member
You don't need a turbo for 150hp. The standard hop up stuff will get you there.
What he said...
According to the online program called "Wallace Automotive Calculators," a source of performance-related numbers that I have personally found to be reasonably accurate, that 150 horsepower will put a 3,200-pound (including driver-weight,) vehicle through the quarter-mile in 16.15 seconds @ 83+ mph.
If that's enough performance to satisfy your desire for a faster car, you can save yourself untold grief and not a little money, by avoiding forced-induction, entirely, and get your increased performance with some traditional bolt-on hardware, such as a better cam, more carburetion, higher-compression through a milled head, and a set of headers. I think just those mentioned items would probably get you the 150 horsepower you'd need to run low, low 16's.
Good luck with whatever path you choose...:cheers:
Brandon Weaver
Well-Known Member
Bill, I wonder if that's to the wheels or crank? If it's at the crank, the stock ones barely made less, which would imply a stock slant could run high 16/low 17?
I bet my car would have a hard time turning the drums on the dyno I need to do some tune up work on it before I start doing anything performance wise so tomorrow I'm gonna run down and get the usual stuff I know a guy that rebuilds carbs he would do mine for 140 but for that I'll do it myself and just make it run decent and my starter sounds like someone threw rocks or something in it so I'm gonna pull it off and make sure nothing like the flywheel is toast.
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
If you need a new starter I have a few extra old style starters you could have for free. Dustin
Brandon, I think it must be at the wheels, because the stock slant six-powered A-bodies usually turned in the 18's, albeit, usually, low 18's, at about 75 mph.
We put a cobbled-up Hyper Pak assortment of parts on an aluminum 225 in a '62 Lancer one time just to see what it would do. It had a Hyper Pak cam and valve springs, a stock exhaust manifold (the Hyper Pak header would not fit because the car has a 904 T-Flite and the starter solenoid was in the way); a Hyper Pak 4bbl carb (Carter AFB) and long-runner Hyper Pak intake manifold. The head had been milled .100".
It ran 15.88 @ 89mph, with no mufffler (beat a '63 Ford Falcon Sprint, 4bbl 260 V8 with a 271hp solid lifter cam two car-lengths for the class trophy... The Ford owner was furious at having his V8, 4-speed Dual-exhaust equipped (cammed-up) car outrun, heads-up, by a 6-cylinder automatic "economy" car... LOL! This was for the Arkansas state Chanpionships at Carlisle, Arkansas in 1963.
Yeah, I been doing this a while... :banghead:
That activity was an anomaly; I didn't touch another slant six until about 2009, when my ex-partner and I decided we had enough time left (he is a year older than I am,) to build ONE MORE PROJECT-CAR, and we both had always played with V8's (mostly 340s and 360's) so, we looked at each other and said "Let's build a six!"
So, we did. Of course,it had to be a Mopar...... so, I stated researching the cars that were doing well with slant sixes.
The rest is, as they say, "HISTORY."
It has been a steep (for me) learning curve, for sure, but well worth the effort.
I now have an old A Body (1964) that will run high 11's on fifteen pounds of boost and is looking to go a LOT faster, next year, with 25, then 30 pounds of boost. That is, if I don't manage to blow it sky high, in the meantime. Always a possibility!
ops:My partner decided to become my ex-partner about a year ago, so, I bought him out, and it's all my problem, now.... :banghead:
But, I'm havin' fun, and that's what this is all about, isn't it???
I hope so.... :cheers:
Just a quick update I haven't messed with the car much besides getting some tune up stuff to make it run better a guy I know is gonna hook me up with all the stuff and help me convert to electronic ignition. I'm having a metal fab shop order me a couple tight radius 90s and that's about it. I got a couple other vehicles I'm getting done before I get to heavy into this one but parts are still coming just slowly so I'll post any updates I get I am gonna do a little bodywork tomorrow so I'll through some of that up.
Ok so messed around with it a little day I really need to find what the dimensions are on the stock ports or close to it so I know what size pipe to use an whether to fit it inside the flange or butt it up against the flange this time I bumped up to 1.5" schedule 40 pipe I'm thinking my original plan of 1 3/4 schedule 40 pipe is what I'm gonna have to do. Everyone look around and see if u can find any dimensions for port size so I don't have to pull my car apart. This is with the 1.5 stuff
kesteb
Well-Known Member
1 3/8 x 1 1/4
kesteb
Well-Known Member
yes
-
