70 dart swinger slant turbo build and mild restoration

[Bill Dedman]

So the build has taken a turn I've been looking for some tight radius 1.75 schedule 40 pipe bends and found them with sharpe products just gotta call and order what I need. Been in the hospital with the baby the last week or so and did research
Now I also sold the 70 dart and bought a really nice 72 scamp with a 318 auto and now I'm focusing all my attention on building my 74 into a lightweight straight line tire burner it's not the nicest car so I don't mind cutting it up a little as my 70 was just too original to do that so I'm going with a cage mini tubs and a 60 rearend so instead of messing around I'm going all in it will still be street legal but not sure how street-able it will be plus my 74 has electronic ignition a manual box no ac so I'm gonna use that to my advantage. So stay tuned

The '74 is a car that had gained weight through guard beams in the doors, and heavier bumpers and bumper braces, with probably other, heavier construction, but, you'll probably get rid of all that excess weight as you go through it and lighten everything as much as you can.

The B-body 8.75" rear should work well for you; that is what I did, and all I had to do was move the spring perches in about an inch on each side, and get some wheels with more offset/backspacing.

Good luck! And, don't forget that turbo slants run best at the drag strip, with 2.76 gears; no need for deep gears. :cheers:

In the end, it was a lot cheaper than buying an A-body housing.

 

[Dave Yacenick]

Sounds like you're doing a lot of thibgs right.... You should end up with a car that makes about 350 horsepower at 15 pounds of boost. That boost figure is low enough to allow you to run stock, cast pistons if you never take the boost any higher.... and, that will save you about $1,100.00 for pistons and rods, initially. your car should have a portred head with big valves (1.75" X 1.5") and with those parameters, Should run somewhere in the 12-second range... fast-enough to run away and hide from a 340 (stock) Duster...

The trouble with this plan is..... boost IS addictive, and you will find yourself wantng more, later.... more horsepower, more performanCe, more "grunt," eventually.

With the cast pistons, you can't have it. It is an invitation to a blown (up) motor, unless you opt for forged (Wiseco) pistons and (K-1) rods right now, in the building stage.

Biting the bullet and buying the good stuff now, will allow you to make up to 500 horsepower, later, with some degree of reliability. A friend has a '70 Dart with just such a 225 motor, and at 28 pounds of boost (!) he runs 11-flat at a little over 120 mph in the quarter... with a 2.76 rear gear. Here is a video of his car: [ame="[MEDIA=youtube]EAxRmoDgsdY[/MEDIA]"]Turbo charged Slant 6 11.02 @ 120.56 - YouTube[/ame]

Think twice before you build the short block...

 

[Dave Yacenick]

The Wiseco pistons are a little over $400.00.... the rods are more like $650. The rods are spec-wise (center-to-center) 7.005", the same length as a 198 rod. IF you can find a set of useable 198 rods, it would save you the cost of buying them from K-1. They seem to be increasingly hard-to-find.

I would imagine you could get those pistons custom-made anywhere that manufactures forgings like that, and specify that the wrist-pin location be kept in the stock 225 place. You might or might not beat Wiseco's price. The stock rods wuld work fine, I'd bet.


Good luck! :cheers:

The Pishta Pipe is probably your best bet on exhaust, and I am afraid it might have to be a DIY project; I don't know of anybody making them for sale. There is surely a market for them...

Happy New Year!!!!:blob:[/

 

[Morepower]

Ok thinking about rigging a turbo up scrap the 408 Chang over, reading about using turbo off of a 2.2. Is blow through better than a drive-through