70 Dart with factory sway bar ?

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Brooks James

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I’m ordering parts to rebuild/upgrade my front suspension. All the kits I looked up for a 70 with disc brakes also come with the bar to k frame bushings. Did the two come as a package ? Was it an option?
Also I’m considering poly bushings except for the moog upper control arms offset bushings for more adjustability. Other than “squeaking” what advantages/ disadvantages are there to poly bushings ?



kilooked up for a 70 with do
 
Poly bushings do not wear out like rubber. They do not deflect under load like rubber. They do ride a bit harder because of that. Grease them up really good when installing. I still have a 1994 silverado C1500 i bought new. I put polyurethane bushings on the rear leaf springs, and front upper and lower control arms of this truck about 18 years ago when I had it apart for a 4" rear drop and 2" drop front spindle kit to lower it. No deterioration. Everything is still tight and solid. I probably put 100K on it after I did the drop kit and bushings. Not sure this is the answer your looking for. I intend to use poly bushings on both project cars.
 
Matt pretty much covered it, properly cared for poly will last a long time. On the “squeaking” thing- if your poly bushings are squeaking, they need to be lubricated. It’s that simple. Poly functions a little differently than rubber. The biggest difference in function is at the LCA bushing in these cars. A rubber bushing is friction fit into the shells, nothing spins or slides. Every bit of suspension travel at the LCA is from the bushing flexing between the inner and outer shells. Which is why the LCA pivot nuts must be torqued at ride height. The rubber can only flex so far, the LCA must be in the middle of its range of travel when everything is torqued so half the flex is up and half the flex is down. Otherwise the bushing tears.

With poly, you should have a tight slip fit into the shells and onto the pin. As in, no play, but some slip. That’s because the poly will not flex to create the suspension travel. Instead, the bushing rotates on the pin. That’s friction, and that’s why they need to be lubricated. Unlike rubber though the LCA movement will be exactly the same through the entire range of travel. With rubber, the further it flexes the more resistance you get, until it tears or binds. So with poly you get a more consistent suspension reaction and feel. And less deflection, so fewer changes in your alignment as the suspension works. And you can torque the pivot nuts whenever you want, doesn’t matter.

Because of the differences in how the bushings work, I always recommend adjustable strut rods and greaseable pivot pins with poly LCA bushings. Having the ability to grease them will ensure they last a long time (longer than rubber). And the adjustable strut rod is necessary to adjust the strut rod length so there is no binding. The factory strut rod length was “one size fits most” and depends on those big sloppy rubber bushings, if the length wasn’t perfect the rubber just flexes more. With poly the length has to be correct or you will get binding. But, If you tune the strut rod length properly you’ll have no binding or resistance to the suspension movement, which is much better than you get with stock bushings.

The easiest way to look at it is that rubber bushings on these cars are maintenance free. Install them and forget about them until they fall apart. Poly bushings are not, they need to be lubricated just like ball joints and tie rod ends. Maintain them and they’ll last darn near forever. Slap them in and don’t maintain them and they’ll squeak and then fall apart. And then you’ll be one of those guys saying poly is terrible because you installed them incorrectly and didn’t maintain them.
 
Are you speaking of the strut rod bushings? I don't know of any others that attach directly to the K-member. Sway bar bushings go into brackets which in turn bolt to the K-member however....
 
Are you speaking of the strut rod bushings? I don't know of any others that attach directly to the K-member. Sway bar bushings go into brackets which in turn bolt to the K-member however....

His original question was about sway bar bushings. I would venture to say a lot of the '70 disk brake cars did have a factory front sway bar, but with anything Ma Mopar of the era I would not say they always came with both. But I don't have the factory options book in front of me to say it should have been one way or the other.

Poly sway bar bushings are great as long as they're lubricated, as it will allow the sway bar to distort less and spin (twist) more easily.
 
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