70 Duster rewire

[Rudy`s Ride]

I have a 70 Duster 340 4sp. The wiring was hacked up when I bought it years ago and then I started hacking and improving some more. I did a amp meter bypass, headlight relays and a 8 gauge alternator wire to a terminal block. I have read all of the books from Mad and also done the remote voltage sensor to terminal block.
This seems to be working all just fine, battery is always charged. But now I have wires everywhere as I have added power windows and locks, classic air system, stereo with 2 amps and a custom dash.
I am now going to rip all of the wiring out and put in a EZ wire harnass in it and move battery to the trunk.
I believe I have it figured out but would like some opinions. I am running 1/0 welding wire for starter with a ford type solenoid in trunk. I will have # 6 welding wire for alt to a terminal block on left front inner fender, #6 from terminal bock to battery. I would like to put my remote voltage sensor wire to the terminal block. The power amps witch are one of my biggest draws will be hooked up to the solenoid in the trunk.
I will be still using headlight relays and maybe electric fans in the future.
Does my plan look good to you smart guys or would you do something different.
Thanks Mike

 

[bbeep71]

I have a 70 Duster 340 4sp. The wiring was hacked up when I bought it years ago and then I started hacking and improving some more. I did a amp meter bypass, headlight relays and a 8 gauge alternator wire to a terminal block. I have read all of the books from Mad and also done the remote voltage sensor to terminal block.
This seems to be working all just fine, battery is always charged. But now I have wires everywhere as I have added power windows and locks, classic air system, stereo with 2 amps and a custom dash.
I am now going to rip all of the wiring out and put in a EZ wire harnass in it and move battery to the trunk.
I believe I have it figured out but would like some opinions. I am running 1/0 welding wire for starter with a ford type solenoid in trunk. I will have # 6 welding wire for alt to a terminal block on left front inner fender, #6 from terminal bock to battery. I would like to put my remote voltage sensor wire to the terminal block. The power amps witch are one of my biggest draws will be hooked up to the solenoid in the trunk.
I will be still using headlight relays and maybe electric fans in the future.
Does my plan look good to you smart guys or would you do something different.
Thanks MikeView attachment 1715158752




View attachment 1715158752

I would use circuit breaker and fuses instead of fusible link wires. I would also install the circuit breaker inline with the alternator not the battery. If you follow the EZ wire schematic the circuits will be protected.

 

[Rudy`s Ride]

I do have the fusible link on the alternator wire, it is on the solenoid in the trunk. I could change to circuit breakers and have been thinking of doing so, that is way I am looking for input.
I will be following the EZ wire schematic for the most part, I am making it push button start among a few other differences. The EZ wire harness has a fusible link with it and it says it must be used on the main power wire.
Thanks

 

[crackedback]

If you are branching from the left front fender location to fans/HL/etc, why not use an auxiliary fuseblock to junction from? Kill two birds with one stone and troubleshooting those items have the fuses in one spot. I prefer fuses running to the HL/fans than fusible links.

The rest looks OK as long as you don't want to go to a NHRA track.

Don't know how the chassis is in the car. If it's frame connected, I'd weld a 3/8" nut to the rear rail and connect ground. Do some at front from engine to chassis.
If you have sensitive eletronics, ex. FI, run a ground wire forward to a junction point near the electronics. It will reduce the "noise" in your power circuits.

 

[Rudy`s Ride]

I will never be at a track with the car as there is not one within 400 miles of me. I could always add a shut off switch later if I want.
The reason I drew it up with fusible links is that I read somewhere that they protect heavy loads better than fuses but that is only what I read. I do not have electric fans at the moment but would like to make sure I am prepared for future changes.
Chassis does not have frame connectors as of yet but I had planed on a ground in the trunk as well. I will also have engine to chassis ground.
The way I had it wired before I had a #10 ground wire from the battery to the steering column and this is were all my dash grounds were connected, I could do the same again. I will look into a auxiliary fuseblock to junction from.
Thanks for the advice.
Mike