I installed a MSD 6AL and Coil on it and not getting anything. I have spark
FIRST:
On the factory Mopar the ignition system is split at the ignition switch, into TWO modes; crank and run. For an aftermarket ignition system, these usually have to be joined under the hood. AND, the tach has to run off it's own signal.
Check your MSD instructions as to how this is all done.
Ok then
>If you have spark at the right time, on every cylinder, DURING BOTH "CRANK",AND "RUN" MODEs
>the carb has fresh, uncontaminated, fuel in the bowls, AND
>your CCP is more than 60psi, AND
>The engine is both sucking and blowing,
>Then it has everything it needs to run............ except;
We don't know if the plugs are still working. and
Starting an engine on 60 psi is a lil tricky. Everything has to be working just right. It starts way easier at 160psi.
My guess is
(if the MSD is sparking during crank-mode),
1) that your plugs are gas-flooded, and/or
2) your rings are dry and/or
3) the throttles are not open far enough, and/or
4) the choke is not doing it's job properly.
My Opinions are
>you need to pull the plugs and look at them, and
>while they are out, put some oil back in the cylinders.
>IMO, and I have proved this, sorry Dano, the engine does not actually care where the oil-pump drive is, IF, you just reclock the wires in the cap, to the new #1TDC compression, rotor position.
> if the D is out 180*, and the engine is NOT flooded, it will backfire out the carb, when cranked.
>To aid in making CCP you can set the cranking timing anywhere in the window of 10 to 25 degrees.......... the more timing it has, the more throttle it's gonna need, to ensure the transfers will deliver after she sputters to life. somewhere around 16* will be fine.
To clear a fuel-flooded engine;
>one that has had the cam previously broken in, and
>this assumes, that the CCP is adequate.
> But, if the engine has very poor CCP, you're gonna need to re-oil the cylinders first.
Here's what I do;
1) I take a really long screwdriver, clean it, then stick it down into the carb, all the way to the bottom of the plenum. This ensures that BOTH the choke, and the throttles are in Clear-Flood mode. Then;
2) do not touch the gas-pedal, and start cranking
3) It's gonna start firing on maybe just one cylinder, do not release the key, unless it's shooting flames out the carb, just keep cranking. Soon another cylinder will clear and join in, just keep cranking. After three or four are popping out the exhaust, she'll probably start running. Just keep cranking until it starts reving up on it's own, then release it to "run" mode, and let it clear itself out. (no you can't hurt the starter, it has an overrunning clutch system in it, that prevents starter damage)
If the rings have oil, this cranking business may only take 15/20 seconds. But if the CCP is way down, it may take way longer.
4) once the rpm gets to be over about 2000rpm or so, let it continue running, but go take that screwdriver out.
5) as the rpm comes down; 1) don't let it stall, and 2) Crank up the curb idle to keep it over say 1200 for a while. then
6) without regard to the actual ignition timing numbers, just advance the timing until it revs up to the highest it gets to be, then crank the rpm back to 1000>1200, then readjust the timing by ear, to not labor the engine; don't worry, she'll tell you.. After she is warmed up and sounding pretty good, bring it down to say NOT LESS than 800.
7) now bring the no-VA, Idle-timing back to ~10>16, and reset the idle speed and mixture screws as may be required, (Towards 16* for a cammed engine, and towards 10 for a stocker.)
8) if an auto-trans, check the auto trans fluid level as per the rules. Then,
shut it off, and check all the other fluids. If the oil is thin and runny or smells like gas, change it. Top up as necessary, look for leaks.
9) ready for a test-drive; Well, except you gotta check and reset the Power-Timing as may be required. If that action kills your idle timing, then you got some modifying to do. If the Power-timing gets over 36* degrees stay out of the Secondaries.
If you experience detonation, on the test-drive, STOP! back out of the throttle, go home and fix the D.
10) But if the cam has not yet been broke in, then you better not use the above method. We need to light that thing off right.
