727 Kickdown Linkage Adjustment - HELP!

[Oldmanmopar]

I have read some of these posts. a 340 4bbl trans has a lighter govenor weight so it holds second longer. I have also seen many 4bbl car and guys heve the correct linkage but the wrong lever on the trans, This always happened at trans shops when a trans was replaced . Yes when it went in for a repair at sometime in its life it got a 2 bbl trans, The govenor weight which is in the tail shaft housing would be lost as well as the 4 bbl lever on the trans. I remember drilling levers at cottman to install rebuilts off the shelf so they would work with the lower push arm. The lever on a 4bbl car is aleast a 1/2 inch shorter then a 2bbl. Another thing to do is add a part throttle kick down servo to the valve body from a six or a fleet car or 4wd truck, 904 an 727 are the same, Three screws on the side of the valve body. The biggest improvement you will make. You will not have to floor it for a down shift. It will even go into low by itself on a slight pull.If you hold a steady throttle and it shifts as soon as you apply more throttle it will down shift if it needs on its own. The factory did not put these on performance cars because of loosing traction in the wet. I am going to list correct 4bbl linkage for a 340 today I will also picture the wieght and the servo if I have one out. Check for my listing, I have two ready I will sell one. I keep one to put more together out of the linkage box.I saw this was an old thread but never saw this mentioned. And I hear alot of guys wiyj the same problem today.

 

[Hemiroid]

I have read some of these posts. a 340 4bbl trans has a lighter govenor weight so it holds second longer. I have also seen many 4bbl car and guys heve the correct linkage but the wrong lever on the trans, This always happened at trans shops when a trans was replaced . Yes when it went in for a repair at sometime in its life it got a 2 bbl trans, The govenor weight which is in the tail shaft housing would be lost as well as the 4 bbl lever on the trans. I remember drilling levers at cottman to install rebuilts off the shelf so they would work with the lower push arm. The lever on a 4bbl car is aleast a 1/2 inch shorter then a 2bbl. Another thing to do is add a part throttle kick down servo to the valve body from a six or a fleet car or 4wd truck, 904 an 727 are the same, Three screws on the side of the valve body. The biggest improvement you will make. You will not have to floor it for a down shift. It will even go into low by itself on a slight pull.If you hold a steady throttle and it shifts as soon as you apply more throttle it will down shift if it needs on its own. The factory did not put these on performance cars because of loosing traction in the wet. I am going to list correct 4bbl linkage for a 340 today I will also picture the wieght and the servo if I have one out. Check for my listing, I have two ready I will sell one. I keep one to put more together out of the linkage box.I saw this was an old thread but never saw this mentioned. And I hear alot of guys wiyj the same problem today.

PM Sent
Kenny

 

[fishy68]

I have read some of these posts. a 340 4bbl trans has a lighter govenor weight so it holds second longer. I have also seen many 4bbl car and guys heve the correct linkage but the wrong lever on the trans, This always happened at trans shops when a trans was replaced . Yes when it went in for a repair at sometime in its life it got a 2 bbl trans, The govenor weight which is in the tail shaft housing would be lost as well as the 4 bbl lever on the trans. I remember drilling levers at cottman to install rebuilts off the shelf so they would work with the lower push arm. The lever on a 4bbl car is aleast a 1/2 inch shorter then a 2bbl. Another thing to do is add a part throttle kick down servo to the valve body from a six or a fleet car or 4wd truck, 904 an 727 are the same, Three screws on the side of the valve body. The biggest improvement you will make. You will not have to floor it for a down shift. It will even go into low by itself on a slight pull.If you hold a steady throttle and it shifts as soon as you apply more throttle it will down shift if it needs on its own. The factory did not put these on performance cars because of loosing traction in the wet. I am going to list correct 4bbl linkage for a 340 today I will also picture the wieght and the servo if I have one out. Check for my listing, I have two ready I will sell one. I keep one to put more together out of the linkage box.I saw this was an old thread but never saw this mentioned. And I hear alot of guys wiyj the same problem today.

I agree on the throttle pressure linkage but you can't just bolt a part throttle kickdown unit onto a valve body designed for no part throttle kickdown. There are passages that won't line up.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

There are two different servos . Early and late All I ever installed worked

 

[MY340]

I made this rod adjuster from a Lowes stores turnbuckle. It works well for fine tuning but of course wouldn't be correct looking for someone wanting the factory look. I was able to dial in my 1-2nd and 2nd-3rd shifts alittle bit later for light throttle. More like 15mph instead of 10mph 1-2 and shifts are firmer now too due to the higher rpms.

 

[fishy68]

There are two different servos . Early and late All I ever installed worked

There are early and late servo's on that control the bands but the PT kickdown unit is not actually a servo, it's a valve assy. The only time I tried it to install a PT kickdown unit I had the PT kickdown from a 76 VB and tried it on a 73 VB and it it wouldn't work due to missing and mis-aligned passages. I think I remember Mopar offering a PT kickdown unit for the old valve bodies a long time ago so maybe they were what you used??

 

[green1]

I made this rod adjuster from a Lowes stores turnbuckle. It works well for fine tuning but of course wouldn't be correct looking for someone wanting the factory look. I was able to dial in my 1-2nd and 2nd-3rd shifts alittle bit later for light throttle. More like 15mph instead of 10mph 1-2 and shifts are firmer now too due to the higher rpms.

That smaller spring is supposed to be inside the larger spring, attached to a hook, on the old rod, pulling forward.

 

[fishy68]

After reading through this thread again I see it's one screwed up mess because new guys keep coming on posting THEIR problems when they should be opening a new thread. It's considered thread jacking to post your problems on another's thread and there's a reason for it, because it's confusing to anyone who tries to answer or get an answer. So now if I would post an answer who do you suppose I'd be replying to, George R, Hemiram2006, or Ed's68Cuda. Guy's, don't take this as I'm jumping anybody's butt because I don't mind helping someone, you just need to start your own thread with your problem so you get answer's meant for you. Not an answer meant for someone else.

 

[Ironracer]

I`ve got your same set up George and I did mine like this:

1) Hold or affix the kickdown lever on the trans all the way forward.
2) Install 3/16 bit in bellcrank and kickdown linkage.
3) Remove all play from the rod traveling up from the trans pivot to the bellcrank and snap in place.
4) With throttle closed, remove all freeplay from the rod between the bellcrank and the carb.

If it shifts too soon then screw the linkage at the carb forward and this will increase the pressure at the trans. If it takes too long to shift then you have too much pressure and you`ll have to screw the linkage back. Only go a few threads at a time and test drive it between each run. When you get it right it should kickdown all the way to first from third at about 28 mph.

My 340, 4:10 Duster does that now. But with the cable set that way, I'm still not at full line pressure. Lever not back enough? I like doing a lot of research on here so I don't have to bother anyone and I know this is an old thread... but Arrrgggg!

 

[oldkimmer]

1 thing I’ll mention is that when ur out under the hood adjusting the KD have u ever checked to see if u have wot? It’s easy to push it back under the hood but u need someone holding the pedal to the metal while u check to verify it. Kim

 

[Ironracer]

1 thing I’ll mention is that when ur out under the hood adjusting the KD have u ever checked to see if u have wot? It’s easy to push it back under the hood but u need someone holding the pedal to the metal while u check to verify it. Kim

I just switched to lokar throttle cable setup last year. I'm pretty sure it's on. But I'll double check!. Thanks!