73’ 318 dies under accel with new intake & carb

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jbyrdmb

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Hey all, been racking my brain trying to figure out what’s wrong. Recently put an edelbrock intake and 4bbl carb on my 318 and it needed some fab work to the kickdown and throttle linkage to fit right. However now there’s a massive dead spot in the throttle when accelerating it bogs and dies, timing is spot on and has brand new plugs. I adjusted the accelerator pump for a bigger/smaller shot and nothing worked. When you step on it, it hesitates and then pulls great, just very confused as to what could be wrong. Any advice?
 
More details on which model intake, carb, your ignition timing specs, cam specs, rear axle ratio, etc..... Stock 318 heads and compression ratio? What year are we working with here?
 
Well..it is a 318...Just kidding! ...:lol:

Seriously though only thing that changed is intake and carb ,distributor didn't have to move to swap an intake like a small block chevy......clogged circuit passage in carb? if its used, bad accelerator pump etc.etc. Don't get into tearing the engine down just yet...
 
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Was it a new carb?

The only issue I've ever had with an Eddy was a partially blocked accel pump squirter on a used one I bough at a swap meet.
 
My truck used to do this when it was cold, and the reason for that was vacuum leaks on the intake manifold and carburetor gasket. Another possibility could be that maybe the accelerator pump is giving it too much gas on initial on-throttle and flooding? need to be more specific on the type of bog you think it is. leans out too much? or floods and bogs until it clears itself up? just a guess.
 
Spray a little carb cleaner around the gaskets.

That will temporarily seal them and the idle should drop.

...or if you're adventurous, use starting fluid, and the idle should increase if there's a leak.


...but do look down the throat and make sure it's actually squirting.
 
Which vacuum source do you have the distributor advance can hooked to? Make sure it's hooked to ported (timed) vacuum- if you hooked it to unported (manifold) vacuum, it will be fully advanced as soon as the engine fires, and will cause a bog when you try to accelerate.
th?id=OIP.nwU5G6cKygxQaYJuNLjpvgHaD7&w=320&h=160&c=8&rs=1&qlt=90&o=6&dpr=1.1&pid=3.jpg
 
Which vacuum source do you have the distributor advance can hooked to? Make sure it's hooked to ported (timed) vacuum- if you hooked it to unported (manifold) vacuum, it will be fully advanced as soon as the engine fires, and will cause a bog when you try to accelerate.
View attachment 1715729464
l agree
make sure you put the ground strap back on
next would be fuel pressure
 
Willing to bet you put a large port aftermarket 4 bbl intake on to the 318 small port heads.

Doing so creates a step from the intake runner to the head port causing turbulence right there.

Stock 318 low end torque engines benefit from having smooth port flow into the heads.

Ideal intake is the LD4B.

I often do the 2 to 4 carb adapters on the stock 318s because it utilizes the correct size intake runners that already match the intake ports on the heads. The stock dual plane intakes are even better yet.

Correct size runners on the 4 barrel intake manifolds are hard to come by for the 318s, that is why I do the alternate method. Nice not having to tear the manifold off a stock engine if you are staying with the stock cam.

1406 carbs run great on stock 318s. Might want to pull one metering rod out and see what the number on it is. 7543 ???
Can check the metering rod springs too.

Happy Motoring . . .

20210424_204135.jpg


20200612_104857.jpg
 
Which vacuum source do you have the distributor advance can hooked to? Make sure it's hooked to ported (timed) vacuum- if you hooked it to unported (manifold) vacuum, it will be fully advanced as soon as the engine fires, and will cause a bog when you try to accelerate.
View attachment 1715729464
Interesting. I'm fighting a bog issue and my distributor advance is hooked up to the manifold vacuum and not the (timed) port vacuum. The timed port vacuum is just plugged off.
 
Interesting. I'm fighting a bog issue and my distributor advance is hooked up to the manifold vacuum and not the (timed) port vacuum. The timed port vacuum is just plugged off.
The picture I posted is a generic Eddy carb (since you didn't mention WHICH Edelbrock carb and manifold you have) and the vacuum port locations could vary slightly. Look up your model carb (stamped on the left lower corner by the mounting stud) and look it up to confirm your port locations.
Then try the ported vacuum for your dist. advance. Barring any vacuum leaks on the intake (as others have mentioned), I'll bet your bog disappears.
By the way, when you set your timing, you did it with the vacuum advance disconnected and the port plugged, right?
 
The picture I posted is a generic Eddy carb (since you didn't mention WHICH Edelbrock carb and manifold you have) and the vacuum port locations could vary slightly. Look up your model carb (stamped on the left lower corner by the mounting stud) and look it up to confirm your port locations.
Then try the ported vacuum for your dist. advance. Barring any vacuum leaks on the intake (as others have mentioned), I'll bet your bog disappears.
By the way, when you set your timing, you did it with the vacuum advance disconnected and the port plugged, right?
I have the AVS2 Edelbrock carb part #1906 with an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold. The car was running fine with the way I have it hooked up and then developed the bog with no other changes.
 
Alright, where's the OP? You've got lots of good ideas here witha few good questions. What intake manifold did you put this on? If you put it on a spread bore intake, without an adapter or the thin Edelbrock plate, you likely have a vacuum leak.We need to hear from you with answers if you want help.
 
The picture I posted is a generic Eddy carb (since you didn't mention WHICH Edelbrock carb and manifold you have) and the vacuum port locations could vary slightly. Look up your model carb (stamped on the left lower corner by the mounting stud) and look it up to confirm your port locations.
Then try the ported vacuum for your dist. advance. Barring any vacuum leaks on the intake (as others have mentioned), I'll bet your bog disappears.
By the way, when you set your timing, you did it with the vacuum advance disconnected and the port plugged, right?
Thank you guys for all the advice! I just went out and looked and the vacuum advance is plugged into the manifold vacuum! I will try swapping those and see what happens. By the way for everyone asking the intake is a 2176 Edelbrock performer and carb is a 1400 600cfm Edelbrock performer.

carb1.jpg


carb2.jpg
 
I'd modify the return spring bracket so it pulls straight and not off to the side. I'd also get a secondary spring in case that one breaks. If you've ever had that happen, you'll always make sure you have a second spring! :steering:
 
Here's the clue;
timing is spot on
That's helpful as mud in your eye and means exactly nothing.
But that's Ok cuz timing ain't the problem.......
unless you set the timing to "spot on", with the V-can hooked to full-time vacuum, which for a 318 is TDC to 5* advance. Then when the vacuum falls away the Vcan will drop about 10 to 20 degrees and the timing goes to as much as 20 degrees retarded....... but hey, it's "spot on" you said .........
Your problem, if not the above;
is 100% caused by ....... AFR went lean.
And the answer to why that is, is likely one of the following three things, or some combination of them.
1) insufficient transfer slot below the primaries
2) Secondaries opening too fast, or without with fuel in it, see #3
3) lazy or insufficient pumpshot
BTW
When you slam the gas pedal down, it would have to be a mighty big vacuum leak, to make a difference, cuz the vacuum goes to near zero, which not coincidentally is near 1 atmosphere, which is 14.7 PSI.
Typically, small vacuum leaks are only troublesome at very low rpms.

Getting back to setting the timing;
Your engine has at least 4 or 5 target timings that you have to engineer
1) is always, Power-Timing
2) is Stall-Timing
3) is Idle-Timing and
4) between Stall-Timing and Power-Timing is the rate of advance and "all-in-by" timing.
5) is Cruise Timing
Like I said "spot-on" means nothing.

BTW2
if the secondaries are Not closed up tight but not sticking, that, on a small cam, constitutes a vacuum leak. Your primaries will have to be closed up in compensation. This will cause a very low fuel flow out the Transfer-slot exposure, which you will then have to crank open the mixture screws to get. So Ok, it idles. But as soon as you tip-in the throttles, the transfers are slow to respond, and you get a hesitation. Then once the transfers are flowing, the AFR goes rich...... because the mixture screws are cranked open.
So the lesson is
Set the T-slot exposure to square, and the mixture screws to about 1.5 to 2.5 turns. Then set the idlespeed with ignition timing.
What idlespeed you chose will depend on a few other things, like how big the cam is, standard or auto trans, how tight the convertor is, etc. ; the typical range is 550 to 650 rpm, in gear; and 100 to 150 higher in Neutral
 
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Totally incorrect to say that hooking up the vac adv to manifold vacuum will cause a bog. In many cases, it cures a bog because the extra timing allows the engine to make more HP & carry the load. Many factors & engine parameters to consider before making a blanket statement like that.

In the OP case, post #16, looks like gas stains around the carb, so maybe a used carb/got mileage on it? More info needed.

Benefits of vac adv connected to man vacuum, scroll down to post #:

www.hotrodders.com/forum/vacuum-advance-hooked-up-directly-manifold-bad-47495.html
 
Totally incorrect to say that hooking up the vac adv to manifold vacuum will cause a bog. In many cases, it cures a bog because the extra timing allows the engine to make more HP & carry the load. Many factors & engine parameters to consider before making a blanket statement like that.

In the OP case, post #16, looks like gas stains around the carb, so maybe a used carb/got mileage on it? More info needed.

Benefits of vac adv connected to man vacuum, scroll down to post #:

www.hotrodders.com/forum/vacuum-advance-hooked-up-directly-manifold-bad-47495.html

Nobody's arguing WHERE to put vacuum advance that I saw. And yes, depending on WHERE his initial timing is, WHERE he has the advance hooked can have an effect. Changing from manifold to ported and back REQUIRES that the initial timing be changed to compensate for each different vacuum port.

....or do yall do it backwards down under? I do hear toilets flush the opposite way.
 
RRR,
I will lend you my glasses. Post #9. Man VA 'will cause a bog'.
And totally wrong to say a switch to MVA 'REQUIRES' a change in initial timing because in this case the OP has told us NOTHING about his combo other than it bogs.....
For all we know, the diaphragm in the VA unit is ruptured, with NO vac adv being applied, but causing an air leak....& bog. Just one of many possibilities.
 
RRR,
I will lend you my glasses. Post #9. Man VA 'will cause a bog'.
And totally wrong to say a switch to MVA 'REQUIRES' a change in initial timing because in this case the OP has told us NOTHING about his combo other than it bogs.....
For all we know, the diaphragm in the VA unit is ruptured, with NO vac adv being applied, but causing an air leak....& bog. Just one of many possibilities.

That was my point. In fact, I said as much that we don't know where his timing is. We're smart up here. Yall must be the opposite of that too.
 
RRR,
You might not be as smart as you think you are. Pretty nasty comment.
 
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