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Johnny71dusty

Johnny71dusty

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Today I replaced our 750 edle with a 500 and man order ran amazing . For a hour . Then car died .

1) it cranks over amazing by key , yes it fully of gas , fuel pump works and yet dumped gas down carb and nothing

2) all lights work no blown fuses

3) it sparks real good out of my coil wire to block ( did not replace as I don't have one on hand )

4) but no spark comes out of any plug wires


In order - I replaced these things in order and tried to start again after each item .

5) replaced ballast resistor

6) replaced the Orange magic Ignition box

7) replaced cap and rotor ( wires and plus were done a month ago so I didn't replace )

Still does the same thing , cranks over amazing with key , getting gas , still have spark leaving coil but nothing out of cap . No fires up . Not even a little I mean absolutely no spark to plugs . We had to get towed home .

what else is there ? Replace actual electronic distributor ? I would have bet it was the ballast resistor lol but nope nope .
 
If you've got spark at the coil, then it's not the ballast. Look at it in its simplest terms- you have spark at the coil, and nothing at the plugs. It disappears somewhere between the two. The path from coil is: coil wire-distributor cap-rotor-distributor cap again-plug wires-plugs. If no spark to ANY of the plugs, its disappearing at or before the rotor. Provided you replaced the cap and rotor with the correct parts, that leaves one thing: bad coil wire (or bad connection).
Make sure the terminals of all your plug wires are seated firmly into the distributor cap and coil, and the boots aren't keeping the wires from getting pressed all the way in.
 
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"cranks over amazing with key" is sometimes because the timing chain went kaput and bent some valves, resulting in no compression on some cylinders. Been there. Does it still have the factory timing set?
 
forphorty said:
"cranks over amazing with key" is sometimes because the timing chain went kaput and bent some valves, resulting in no compression on some cylinders. Been there. Does it still have the factory timing set?
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It's not that / it's not sparking- at all . Ran great for over hour putting around until pulling up to the stop sign it cut out .
 
Professor Fate said:
If you've got spark at the coil, then it's not the ballast. Look at it in its simplest terms- you have spark at the coil, and nothing at the plugs. It disappears somewhere between the two. The path from coil is: coil wire-distributor cap-rotor-distributor cap again-plug wires-plugs. If no spark to ANY of the plugs, its disappearing at or before the rotor. Provided you replaced the cap and rotor with the correct parts, that leaves one thing: bad coil wire (or bad connection).
Make sure the terminals of all your plug wires are seated firmly into the distributor cap and coil, and the boots aren't keeping the wires from getting pressed all the way in.
Click to expand...

they are all good . But this distributor also goes to that Orange box . I've never had a one without points before
 
Johnny71dusty said:
they are all good . But this distributor also goes to that Orange box . I've never had a one without points before
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You have spark at the coil, so the primary ignition circuit is functioning- spark is being generated. Your issue is in the secondary circuit- the actual spark is not reaching the plugs. It is being generated at the coil as it should, but is not following the path outlined in my previous post.
 
Pull the rotor, flip the distributor cap, and see how it matches up to the contacts in the cap when centered in it. I’ve seen a few rotors lately that have had too much gap. Also, check the contact tip in the cap for continuity with the coil wire.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Pull the rotor, flip the distributor cap, and see how it matches up to the contacts in the cap when centered in it. I’ve seen a few rotors lately that have had too much gap. Also, check the contact tip in the cap for continuity with the coil wire.
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Ran great for months & today with new carb like a champ for hours . A d I get things break but all things check out so far . Rotor does spin I just checked
 
What about the distributor pick up? The gap between the pick up and the reluctor is .008" and has to be checked with a brass or plastic feeler gauge only.
 
Johnny71dusty said:
Today I replaced our 750 edle with a 500 and man order ran amazing . For a hour . Then car died .

1) it cranks over amazing by key , yes it fully of gas , fuel pump works and yet dumped gas down carb and nothing

2) all lights work no blown fuses

3) it sparks real good out of my coil wire to block ( did not replace as I don't have one on hand )

4) but no spark comes out of any plug wires


In order - I replaced these things in order and tried to start again after each item .

5) replaced ballast resistor

6) replaced the Orange magic Ignition box

7) replaced cap and rotor ( wires and plus were done a month ago so I didn't replace )

Still does the same thing , cranks over amazing with key , getting gas , still have spark leaving coil but nothing out of cap . No fires up . Not even a little I mean absolutely no spark to plugs . We had to get towed home .

what else is there ? Replace actual electronic distributor ? I would have bet it was the ballast resistor lol but nope nope .
Click to expand...
The research that I've done on the orange box, they have to be grounded correctly as they have been known to run hot.
 
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