gavins1daddy
Active Member
I have a 1973 Dodge dart that I just replace both brake hoses on the front calipers and the calipers. After I started bleeding the brakes I lost all pressure in the brake pedal. Does this mean I need a new master cylinder?
73 dart brake problems
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Your M/C probably got a big gulp of air. Fill it, bleed it and start over.
gavins1daddy
Active Member
That could be it. I had my 13 year old boy pumping on the brakes while I was bleeding the brakes. Do I bleed the master cylinder then bleed the brakes? And if so how do I go about bleeding the master cylinder on the vehicle?
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Yes, you bleed the M/C first.
There are three ways to do that;
1) if the caliper-pistons are well out of the calipers, you can gently push them back in, one atta time, clamping them in when done. This will force the fluid back up the line and through the M/C chambers, and into the reservoir. The cap better be secured on, or the fluid will fountain up and outta there.
2) You can remove the lines from the M/C install short lines,looped back into the reservoirs, below the liquid line, and start pumping.When no more bubbles come out the loops, you are done.
3) you can fill the reservoirs and tickle the pedal until no more air bubbles pop out. The calipers need to be in their proper locations or the pistons C-clamped in. Tickling involves two persons;one watching and the other tickling. The tickler will gently push the pedal down about a half inch, and release. This will push a tiny bit of fluid down the line, and the release will allow the air to pop back out. The pedal down-stroke may need to be increased slightly, and the stroke-release speed adjusted to make it work. It sometimes takes a bit of fussing to get it to start, but once you figure it out, it goes fast and easy. I do this all the time. Once the air bubbles stop popping out, increase the stroke and repeat. When no more bubbles at all pop up, you should be done. Once the learning is done, it will only take a few strokes to get the air out, or something else is wrong. The whole thing after the learning, shouldn't take but one to three minutes.
There are three ways to do that;
1) if the caliper-pistons are well out of the calipers, you can gently push them back in, one atta time, clamping them in when done. This will force the fluid back up the line and through the M/C chambers, and into the reservoir. The cap better be secured on, or the fluid will fountain up and outta there.
2) You can remove the lines from the M/C install short lines,looped back into the reservoirs, below the liquid line, and start pumping.When no more bubbles come out the loops, you are done.
3) you can fill the reservoirs and tickle the pedal until no more air bubbles pop out. The calipers need to be in their proper locations or the pistons C-clamped in. Tickling involves two persons;one watching and the other tickling. The tickler will gently push the pedal down about a half inch, and release. This will push a tiny bit of fluid down the line, and the release will allow the air to pop back out. The pedal down-stroke may need to be increased slightly, and the stroke-release speed adjusted to make it work. It sometimes takes a bit of fussing to get it to start, but once you figure it out, it goes fast and easy. I do this all the time. Once the air bubbles stop popping out, increase the stroke and repeat. When no more bubbles at all pop up, you should be done. Once the learning is done, it will only take a few strokes to get the air out, or something else is wrong. The whole thing after the learning, shouldn't take but one to three minutes.
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gavins1daddy
Active Member
Ya so I figured out the problem. It wasn't my son after all. It turns out that the rear brake hose has a hole in it and leaks fluid. I replaced both front brake hoses and I could not get the hose separated from the line, it was rusted on. I tried wd-40 and a torch but nothing. I ended up having to cut the metal line a ways from the hose because of the coragated line. Is there an easier way to do it for the back hose. I really don't want to cut the metal line again
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Heat has always worked for me. In stubborn cases I have had to drain the line.
The fluid seems to carry away the heat too fast, and if you increase the heat, you get into melting stuff. Be careful back there; the gas tank is right there,eh?
On some models the rear flex line incorporates the junction block, and it cannot be separated no how! So look carefully.
Yeah sometimes it is better to just cut out a section and put a jumper in
The thing you called coragated is actually a wire spring wound around the tube to protect it from gravel abrasion over the years. They're harder to crush too
The fluid seems to carry away the heat too fast, and if you increase the heat, you get into melting stuff. Be careful back there; the gas tank is right there,eh?
On some models the rear flex line incorporates the junction block, and it cannot be separated no how! So look carefully.
Yeah sometimes it is better to just cut out a section and put a jumper in
The thing you called coragated is actually a wire spring wound around the tube to protect it from gravel abrasion over the years. They're harder to crush too
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