What strut rods did you run i have been looking at the firm feel
74 Duster, resto mod 6.4 conversion in Australia
- Thread starter Ozyduster
- Start date
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a68postcar
Well-Known Member
Rock and roll brother. I like good fit and finish and the q/p to rocker is tough. Looks like ypu got her though.
Firm Feel has adjustable.
Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering
I have the QA1 style.
52311 Dynamic Strut Bars, 64-76 Mopar A Body
I imagine either would work equally well.
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
If you are using stock style bushings you can cut the same amount off the bushing by the washer side so it will even out, if using adjustable struts then as mosleyme said, it doesn't matter.
O that makes sense, i do like the firm feel rods as look nice and strong and quite simple compared to the PST ones etc
About to start rebuilding the suspension, i have the PST graphite kit that has all the balljoints and rubbers etc. Do i need new pivot pins or just re use the original with new bushes etc? Is this an item that wears out? As new pivot pins are not cheap given what you are getting. I will also brace and powder coat the arms.
Anything to look out for with the arms etc?
Anything to look out for with the arms etc?
bjkadron
Well-Known Member
If you are talking the LCA pivot pin, then you are fine to re-use as long as it isn't bent. The factory one is a nice forged piece.
Yep thats the one, as for what they cost rather get new mirrors lol. As this car pretty much every part either brand new or reconditioned. Hopefully all worth it haha. Watched a few videos on rebuilding the arms so i will do this soon.
So turned my car into a giant skate board, knocked up a frame for the front of the car so we can wheel it around etc. Just bolts to the chassis, welded an L bracket to the upright that sits hard under chassis to stop the legs folding back or forward. Should do the trick for now.
Fitted the old grill and head light surrounds so i can see what additional panel work is needed to make sure all the shadow lines around the surrounds is perfect.
So i still not removed upper ball joints as first ordered a 1-13/16th then realised thats the Australian uppers, so i googled and read the USA was the 1-59/64 and that doesn't fit either as slightly too small. What size are the upper balljoints?
Fitted the old grill and head light surrounds so i can see what additional panel work is needed to make sure all the shadow lines around the surrounds is perfect.
So i still not removed upper ball joints as first ordered a 1-13/16th then realised thats the Australian uppers, so i googled and read the USA was the 1-59/64 and that doesn't fit either as slightly too small. What size are the upper balljoints?
I cant figure out whats going on, my 1-59/64 fits my new upper ball joints perfectly however it doesnt fit the original bal joints.
Its like its the slightest bit too small, the round section before the square sides fouls on the socket. Its probably only out by a few mm at the most.
But from what i have read 1-59/64 is the correct size?
Its like its the slightest bit too small, the round section before the square sides fouls on the socket. Its probably only out by a few mm at the most.
But from what i have read 1-59/64 is the correct size?
Are you using a standard socket?
Original is not. I have removed them in the past with a pipe wrench... not advisable. Which is why I have the correct socket now.
Oh, and much easier to do it while the control arm is on the car, need some leverage.
Socket:
My upper ball joint:
Let me go measure... you may have the wrong size. Mine measures 1.92". 1-59/64" sounds correct. That is correct for the '73-'76 A-body.
Did someone damage the prior joint, just need cleaning up with a file or dremel?
Measure across the flats. I seem to remember in the past actually having to tap the socket on with some cars because it wasn't a perfectly clean edge.
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bjkadron
Well-Known Member
I agree with mosleyme, I'd be tempted to file/grind the old ones. I used that same socket for two sets of new ones so It should be correct.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I have run into this. Been awhile but as I recall, the new balljoint socket I bought didn’t fit the new balljoint I was trying to install. The socket was just a hair too small. I had other issues and so I went a different direction and never figured out what was going on.
Thanks for the info actually did exactly this before i seen your post. I got my grinder and gave the sides a kiss and tap of a hammer the socket fitted. Was odd the round top was overhanging the square sides, like had been hit or maybe wrong tool used
Also did it on the car as read could be tight. Drivers side came off easily the passenger side required some help. Was acually hard to undo as was moving the whole car about as no weight in it, but got it to crack thankfully
Thanks, it was a slow process, however got the underside to fit like factory that i notice many people cant get. Actually had to slit the quarter and shorten at the bottom to get it all to work. Now about to start getting the gaps spot on.
Not sure how silly we will go, like welding wire to doors etc to stretch them to get the perfect gaps lol
In the process of welding up all the unwanted holes in the bay, floor pan and trunk. Mainly from random screws etc.
I have decided to make further modifications to the wheel tubs so have plenty of travel for the weel when tucked, basically removing the step in the tub on the quarter panel side.
Raptor liner the whole underside up the the crease just under the fire wall then front section satin black.
Slow progress as decided to epoxy flake the first quarter of my factory, i will do a quarter at a timer as slow process and need to shuffle stuff around as several cars and machinery etc.
Happy with the result as did it my self, had one of my apprentices grind the paint off the floor with a walk behind then two coats of black, flake and two clear coats. Its a fair old process and 1400 bucks of materials.
Ill then paint the wall silver up to about the 5ft mark, then put back all my tools, vintage signs, got heap of retro oil bottles and stands, 1920s petrol pump etc as will be a bit of a man cave as well.
The lunch room is set up like a old diner with coke booth seating and duke box etc
I have decided to make further modifications to the wheel tubs so have plenty of travel for the weel when tucked, basically removing the step in the tub on the quarter panel side.
Raptor liner the whole underside up the the crease just under the fire wall then front section satin black.
Slow progress as decided to epoxy flake the first quarter of my factory, i will do a quarter at a timer as slow process and need to shuffle stuff around as several cars and machinery etc.
Happy with the result as did it my self, had one of my apprentices grind the paint off the floor with a walk behind then two coats of black, flake and two clear coats. Its a fair old process and 1400 bucks of materials.
Ill then paint the wall silver up to about the 5ft mark, then put back all my tools, vintage signs, got heap of retro oil bottles and stands, 1920s petrol pump etc as will be a bit of a man cave as well.
The lunch room is set up like a old diner with coke booth seating and duke box etc
About to start on the front end and strengthen the k frame etc. So picked up the front shocks, went with the qua1 adjustable rather than a permanent 90/10.
Also grabbed the Calvert 9 way adjustable for the rear to go with the calvert monoleafs and kaltracs.
Decided not worried about budget just costs what it costs, no short cuts and just get the best etc without going too silly.
After speaking with the shop have decided to go the Aeromotive phantom stealth 340 pump. We will cnc a drop down into the tank to fit under the trunk floor etc
Got my work cut out as tank looks to be filthy inside
Also grabbed the Calvert 9 way adjustable for the rear to go with the calvert monoleafs and kaltracs.
Decided not worried about budget just costs what it costs, no short cuts and just get the best etc without going too silly.
After speaking with the shop have decided to go the Aeromotive phantom stealth 340 pump. We will cnc a drop down into the tank to fit under the trunk floor etc
Got my work cut out as tank looks to be filthy inside
So bit the bullet, its been playing on my mind the shite tub design of the mopar that tubbing doesnt fix. The step in the quarter side of the tub. Even tho the weals fit like a thumb in a bum i would always have scrubbing issues especially if i want to tuck up in the guard.
So we have last minute cut the step out and created a rounder tub. Then its ready to raptor liner application, its neatish but coat of raptor liner will hide the debortury below. Main thing was to not damage all the work that went into the quarters.
Glad i did it as would of really pissed me off
So we have last minute cut the step out and created a rounder tub. Then its ready to raptor liner application, its neatish but coat of raptor liner will hide the debortury below. Main thing was to not damage all the work that went into the quarters.
Glad i did it as would of really pissed me off
mygasser
Well-Known Member
nice work, i've always thought it was daft to have that step too. unfortunately (stupidly) it's not just mopar's that are like it 
neil.
neil.
I would think its for strength most likely and lets face it they never thought the size wheels we run now days would be fitted. Just glad i pulled the trigger on deleting as think it would have done my head in. Keen to get the underside sprayed so can start bolting stuff back on for once
nice work, i've always thought it was daft to have that step too. unfortunately (stupidly) it's not just mopar's that are like it
DionR
Well-Known Member
I think it is a carry over from the Valiant/Dart. When they widened the back and created the Duster, they didn't want to create a completely new part so they just stepped it to get it over to the quarter. But just my guess.
Nice work, definitely something to fix. Planning to do something similar at some point to my G3 car.
Nice work, definitely something to fix. Planning to do something similar at some point to my G3 car.
Think you may be on to something here!! Back in those days they were not thinking someone would run a 275 rear. Either way its no issue now with some cutting and patching. Few burnouts and will be covered in rubber anyway
Very happy as we have achieved a lot more clearance in the rear tub and it all looks factory, by removing the step wheels dont need to sit so far in to have full suspension travel etc.
Starting the prep for the raptor liner as this will go to all the underside of the car and in the trunk.
Satin black to the whole interior of the car, and the chassis rails where the suspension bolts to leaving the engine bay side as this will be body colour, once this is done ill start putting all the diff and suspension back in.
Starting the prep for the raptor liner as this will go to all the underside of the car and in the trunk.
Satin black to the whole interior of the car, and the chassis rails where the suspension bolts to leaving the engine bay side as this will be body colour, once this is done ill start putting all the diff and suspension back in.
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