79 Volare

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usdart

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OK, I give up..
After three 2 bbl carbs this thing still runs like crap. I did away with the lean burn, new dist and V-reg and ECU and fuel pump. Still have the old choke thermost stuff on it.
The car runs perfect one day and the next day it dies at every stop light. I am thinking something in the carb is sticking now and then.soooooo
I have an Edelbrock SP2P and I have ordered the Eddie 1403 carb with ele choke.
Questions;
What temp stat should I put in?
I have heard no-gaskets on a alum intake, just silicone? I prefer both.
Will I need a different throttle assy?
 
I don't like using silicone on the intake ports, the gasoline turns it to jell after awhile. You need a gasket, most company's tell you use Fel-Pro print-o-seal but I like the cheap Mr. Gasket better. I like using something like high-tack on the ports. I also like using a valley cover-on a SB-to get the oil away from the intake--Summit has them for like $25.

Only place I use RTV is on the ends of the intakes, front and back. Even the water ports I stick with that High-Tack, Edelbrock makes sometime too, Gassalaa--not spelled right.

But many do use RTV ?????? but then they get a lumpy idle after awhile and think its just the cam.
 
Yup, RTV only on the ends instead of the cork seals. I used Indian Head around the ports
 
Had a 77 Roadrunner (Volare) that did the same crap until I put a 650 Holley on it. I was told that the float in the carb was changed from a center pivot to a side pivot for emissions and it was more prone to sticking and causing the engine to flood when I took it back to the dealer to find out why it ran like crap.
To answer your questions:
180 degree thermostat. Don't need anything higher since you don't have fuel infection.
Use gaskets on the intake, RTV on the ends of the manifold. Always had good results with Permatex HiTack on the gaskets, no leaks, no mess. There may be locating pins in the valley rails at the ends of the intake manifold. Make sure you get them out or the intake will not seat.
Shouldn't have any problems with the throttle cable you have. Mine worked on an Edelbrock Torker with a 650 Holley.
Hope this helps.
 
Swapped intake/Carb, let it sit overnight.
Started engine and H2O pours out of several places. It also hydrastatically locked the engine. Found the manifold blots LOOSE (how the heck?)
Retorqued bolts, remove plugs, blow H2O out. Engine fires right up. Changed oil and filter, start again, now oil pan rear seal leaks like a sieve. H2O pump appears to leak as well. I have no luck at all!!!:hmph:
I don't have a way to get the car up enough to tackle the oil pan gaskets.:hmph:
Wish I knew where I went wrong..
 
Sorry to hear that.

The intake, oil pan, valve covers, etc. Do take awhile to tighten. You think a few are tight but then once all the others are tighten, the first few need to be tighten again. Takes 15-20 mins, if you go too fast, you can spilt the gasket.

Why would the oil pan leak ?? You got me there.

Sounds like its pulling the oil pan off, you might as well changed the oil pump and main seal.

Boy or boy, now I know why some people hate touching their motors.
 
OK..dove back into it for another helping..
Found oil pan NOT leaking, was diverside Valve cover:rock:

Found clamp loose on bypass hose:rock:
All issues kind of faded away....

All tuned up and adjusted with the Eddie SP2P intake and 500cfm ele choke carb.:rock: It never ran so good!!!!!!!!
Big test tomorrow, I drive to work:rock:
 
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