8 & 3/4 rear brake conversion to disc info

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dmflash24

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I need some help on buying a conversion brake system. I bought a Yukon bearing kit for the rear axle but Now I've decided to convert the rear brakes to disc. I see that they say you have to use green bearing. I need to know if the Yukon bearings will work. I don't know the difference.And the old bearings had a adjuster on one end do you still use that. I was looking at the wilwood or The summit brake conversion. Can I get some help here ? Thanks, Derek
 
Dr Diff has a couple of rear disk brake conversion kits, put his stuff on the list of potentials.
I put one of his disk brake kits on a 8.75 using his axels with green bearings, went on simple and easy.
Cass is super on customer service and support before and after the sale. Tell him you have Yukon bearings and he will lay out your options.
 
my68barracuda said:
Dr Diff has a couple of rear disk brake conversion kits, put his stuff on the list of potentials.
I put one of his disk brake kits on a 8.75 using his axels with green bearings, went on simple and easy.
Cass is super on customer service and support before and after the sale. Tell him you have Yukon bearings and he will lay out your options.
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Best advice ever! Cass is great. Shoot him an email with any questions. He even backs his products with tech support.
 
dodgedifferent2 said:
I do brackets for the stock bearing setup and I also believe they work for green bearings
I use the mustang calipers and rotors
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Who made the bracket kit for the Mustang calipers if you do not mind me asking?
 
DrEamer said:
Who made the bracket kit for the Mustang calipers if you do not mind me asking?
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Myself.
Rear disc Brakes on 8 3/4

20190913_154925.jpg
 
DrEamer said:
Who made the bracket kit for the Mustang calipers if you do not mind me asking?
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dodgedifferent2 said:
Myself.
Rear disc Brakes on 8 3/4

View attachment 1715401818
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I have his brackets and sourced the rotors and calipers locally and the hoses from Summit per his recommendation. Everything went together on the 8.75 like it was made for it (which it was)! For axles I’m using shortened and resplined 71-74 truck axles by Moser with stock tapered bearings and adjuster. The rear end not yet installed as still lots of work to be done on my wagon - sedan delivery conversion.

4FB67B90-1BB9-4FB4-B533-77E933C8667D.jpeg
 
I’m not sure if he was referring to a kit for the larger rotors or the standard kit you are/were making. I may be in the market for another regular kit from you as I really like the setup and ease of installation over the TSR kit that uses Lincoln rotors and Caddie calipers.
 
dodgedifferent2 said:
Yes I believe I have 4 sets tyat I need to complete the finishing steps
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Id also be interested, you said rotors have to be milled down for axles? or stock rotors work? any special prop valve needed? have 73 and up style on the front and drums out back but id like to ditch the drums and go 4 wheel disc....
 
Hey 71T440. You can swap to rear disc brakes from a 2002 to 2007 Jeep Liberty. Or 93 to 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee. An a Jeep Wrangler 2003 to 2006. See the story me (TALK ABOUT IT) an one of the writers at Mopar action did back on AUG, OCT, 2018 issue. One modification must be done to the caliper brackets after that its 100% bolt-on. Its all from mother Mopar. No ford GM anything. Take everything off a Jeep in the salvage yard an have a machine shop grind down the brackets to 0.100". pg-66 photo #7. If you like u can pick-up drilled an slotted rotors. An red powder coated calipers from amazon.
 
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dmflash24 said:
I need some help on buying a conversion brake system. I bought a Yukon bearing kit for the rear axle but Now I've decided to convert the rear brakes to disc. I see that they say you have to use green bearing. I need to know if the Yukon bearings will work. I don't know the difference.And the old bearings had a adjuster on one end do you still use that. I was looking at the wilwood or The summit brake conversion. Can I get some help here ? Thanks, Derek
Click to expand...
This is a rear disc brake set-up i put on my 1980 Ply Volar'e station wagon. It's a 8.75 rear from a 1970 B-Body. The calipers, pads and rotor are from a 03-07 Liberty. The caliper bracket is from a 1995 Grand Cherokee. The bracket must be modified to work on all 8.75 rears. The brackets are all the same on the Liberty, Grand Cherokee and the Wrangler. Liberty rotors, calipers and pads are much beefier. Any rear disc brake set-up is way better than drums from the 60's an 70's... 50 plus yrs ago.
58564.jpg
 
71Twister440 said:
Id also be interested, you said rotors have to be milled down for axles? or stock rotors work? any special prop valve needed? have 73 and up style on the front and drums out back but id like to ditch the drums and go 4 wheel disc....
Click to expand...

The center register in the rotor needs to be opened up .04 of an inch to clear the axle register. Basically a stock mustang rotor.
You can use a prop valve if you want, but since you have disc on the front already than your master cylinder will still work because the proportion is already built in. The front brakes do all the work. The rear just helps finish it off, the master cylinder does not know if its drum or disc in the rear. It just supplies the same amount of fluid.

I originally ran a manual 15/16 bore master cylinder from a 90s dakota.
Now I am running a hydroboost system from a 05 ish diesel ram with 1 1/8 bore master from a 92 ram van.

The problem with mopar rear disc is the parking brake shoes. I detest those and have only ever had issues with them on my dakotas, rams, sebrings, intrepid and the charger. I always get them seizing and locking up the brakes. Besides that style of brake was not designed by mopar anyways. It's a system prepared for them by another company and bolted on.
 
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