8.75 Solid crush sleeve play?

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EvilScamp

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Trying to set the pinion depth (never used solid crush sleeve before) when i put the shims in it it allows play between the inside bearing and the race before the carrier is in and after the yoke is tightened down.
Is this normal with the solid sleeve? How much play is to much if it's normal?
 
...........R these new gears or a used set, as u say u r trying to set pinion depth........if used gears[in the same case] u do not need to set pinion depth as it was already set and u r just replacing the crush sleeve with the solid spacer....u only need as many shims to take out the play and set bearing preload.....they send extras.......r these new or used bearings...if new or used gears in a different case u will need to measure and set pinion depth as well....kim.......
 
New gears and bearings, i'm trying to get the teeth to mesh together correctly but it's showing that the pinion isn't deep enough into the ring gear that's why i have the shims in it.
I only ever rebuilt one rear before and i used the normal crush sleeve this solid one has me scratching my head.
 
Those shims don't change your pinion depth.

I'm guessing you pressed a fresh bearing onto the pinion? How thick of a shim did you put between the bearing and pinion head? That's the shim location to adjust pinion depth. Some housings use a shim that fits between the race and housing, not usually the situation with an 8.75 rear.
 
DO yourself a favor, and find a pro to do it. It will take the worry out of it and possible save you. There is a lot to it !

You don't want to hear no, should da dones. Ha HA !
Here's what I say,
Let the people who do it, do it.

While they are doing that, you're moving forward with what you can do.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Setting up gears is easier than grammar school geometry. What you need is an old large pinion bearing. Hone the center of it until it is a slip fit on the pinion gear. That way, you can slip it off, change shims to get the pinion depth correct then press the new bearing on with your correct shims. No need to even install the front bearing, sleeve or front shims while doing this, because as mentioned, they have zero to do with pinion gear depth. Simply keep removing the pinion gear, sliding the honed bearing off and changing the shims until you get the right pinion depth. Nothin to it.
 
Setting up gears is easier than grammar school geometry. What you need is an old large pinion bearing. Hone the center of it until it is a slip fit on the pinion gear. That way, you can slip it off, change shims to get the pinion depth correct then press the new bearing on with your correct shims. No need to even install the front bearing, sleeve or front shims while doing this, because as mentioned, they have zero to do with pinion gear depth. Simply keep removing the pinion gear, sliding the honed bearing off and changing the shims until you get the right pinion depth. Nothin to it.


Yep.
 
Setting up gears is easier than grammar school geometry. What you need is an old large pinion bearing. Hone the center of it until it is a slip fit on the pinion gear. That way, you can slip it off, change shims to get the pinion depth correct then press the new bearing on with your correct shims. No need to even install the front bearing, sleeve or front shims while doing this, because as mentioned, they have zero to do with pinion gear depth. Simply keep removing the pinion gear, sliding the honed bearing off and changing the shims until you get the right pinion depth. Nothin to it.

That's a good idea! i never woulda thought of that,thanks!
I have been doing research here and across the internet, i can usually figure this stuff out but rebuilding rears is fairly new to me and it just wasn't clicking when i was working on it.
I'm gonna take another shot at it tomorrow with what i learned today, guess i should have researched a little more instead of just jumping into it.
Thanks for the help! :blob:
 
Do you have a small dial type inch lb torque wrench? You need it to set the pinion bearing preload. As mentioned earlier that's what the solid pinion spacer and shims are used for. For new bearings you shoot for 15-20 inch lbs of drag as indicated on the inch lb torque wrench. I'd just about bet you can find all kinds of video's on YouTube showing how to do it if you want to see it done first.
 
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