1. dart360swinger

    dart360swinger Boosted

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    I got a 8.8 out of a 97 exploder this last week. It came with disc brakes, limited slip, 3.73 gears, complete driveshaft, u-bolts and brakets all for $150. I'm going to shorten the long side axle tube and center up the rear-end. That will bring the rear within an inch of the factory A-body rear. It will also let me use an extra short side axle shaft, so no custom axles. If your wondering why not get a 8 3/4 well I plan on doing the whole swap for around $200. You couldn't hardly get a bare A-body housing for that much!

    Here's a few pictures. I'll post more as I go along. I'm going to move the rear springs into the frame when I do the swap also.


    Jake

    I got most of the info to do this swap from this site, so thanks to everyone who's posted about this in the past!

    DSCN0158.jpg

    DSCN0151.jpg

    DSCN0157.jpg

    DSCN0159.jpg

    DSCN0168.jpg

    DSCN0169.jpg
     
  2. wish4hemi

    wish4hemi Well-Known Member

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    Is there some kind of conversion kit to get a regular pinion yoke or how will you deal with that?
     
  3. dart360swinger

    dart360swinger Boosted

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    Just a conversion u-joint from dodge drive shaft to ford yoke. I have a 8" in the dart now and I'm kinda hopin it might work, but I havn't measured yet. It's a conversion u joint. If it dosen't I'll just get the measument's and go look in the spicer book.


    Jake
     
  4. Badart

    Badart Senior Member

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    Looking good. You should be able to find a yoke that will work. These things came in about a million mustangs.

    I did a 9" conversion on my dart and used the 8.8 disc brakes from an exploder and was actually able to use the parking brakes and tie them into the darts cable. Works great.
     
  5. Badart

    Badart Senior Member

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    I went to 1330 yokes and U-joints in my build. I had them turn down a 1330 yoke to fit the drive shaft and they welded it up and balanced it.
     
  6. dart360swinger

    dart360swinger Boosted

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    Thanks I'll keep that in mind when It comes time.



    Jake
     
  7. MoparJoe20

    MoparJoe20 Well-Known Member

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    If you're running a 727 or 833 a late 60's Imperial or 440 C body driveshaft will work, it just needs cut down- they used 1330 U joints.


    I used one from a 68 Imperial in my 68 Dart to mate a 833 to a 8.8, after getting 6-8" taken out it went right in.
     
  8. dart360swinger

    dart360swinger Boosted

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    Just for price wise I'm really just hoping to use the dart's stock drive shaft. So the 8.8 u joints are the 1330's? What is the stock a-body's? 7260? 7290? If it's one of those, I can just get a conversion u joint and be done with it.


    Thanks
    Jake
     
  9. Badart

    Badart Senior Member

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  10. Oklacarcollecto

    Oklacarcollecto Life is an experiment

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    I will have to keep a close eye on this thread. I have one of those same rear ends in a rollover.
     
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    • dart360swinger

      dart360swinger Boosted

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    • Badart

      Badart Senior Member

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    • Oklacarcollecto

      Oklacarcollecto Life is an experiment

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      That u joint shows "Status: Back Ordered Item... Please Call".

      Post it if you do get it from them.
       
    • dart360swinger

      dart360swinger Boosted

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      i don't think I'll actually get it from them. I just meant I'll get that particular u-joint. NAPA should carry it (as long as they dont want a ton for it) that's probably where I'll get it.


      Thanks
      Jake
       
    • fishy68

      fishy68 Tyr Fryr's Inc. FABO Gold Member

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      If you center the yoke you'll be off 1-3/4" from stock A-body specs as their yoke is not centered. It's off center to the pass. side 1-3/4".

      Also how are you going to bolt up that U-joint to the flange that's on the rearend now? Won't you have to swap the yoke for a conventional style? If so why not just get a conventional 7260 yoke so you don't have to run a conversion U-joint?
       
    • dart360swinger

      dart360swinger Boosted

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      I'm just centering the differential. The pinion still sits to the one side about that 1-3/4 your taking about.

      I have the drive shaft flange that bolts to the rear end. I just need the conversion u joint from it to the drive shaft. I've heard they're stronger, smoother, just alot more modern benifits.

      It's at the other end of the shaft from the picture, but you get the idea.

      Jake

      DSCN0157.jpg
       
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      • fishy68

        fishy68 Tyr Fryr's Inc. FABO Gold Member

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        Ok. Sounds like a good plan.
         
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        • dart360swinger

          dart360swinger Boosted

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          I got the housing cut down today. I was pretty nervous about it, but everything seems to have went okay. Now I just have to build the frame boxes, get a shaft, u-joint and It should be ready to bolt in.






          Jake

          I cant get the attachment section to work. I'll post the pictures later.
           
        • dart360swinger

          dart360swinger Boosted

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          a couple pics

          DSCN0179.jpg

          DSCN0177.jpg

          DSCN0178.jpg

          DSCN0180.jpg

          DSCN0181.jpg
           
        • dart360swinger

          dart360swinger Boosted

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          I got a little bit done today. I picked up the axle shaft I needed. $26, pretty good especially for how easy they are to pull! I got the axle tacked back together too. I'm hopin to get it welded up tomorrow, and start putting it all back together. I also picked up the sheet metal and round stock for the spring relocation. I'm starting to get excited to get this thing in there, and do a big (2 tire) burnout!:cheers:


          Jake
           
        • dart360swinger

          dart360swinger Boosted

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          a couple pics

          axle1.jpg

          axle3.jpg

          0302001935.jpg
           
        • Badart

          Badart Senior Member

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          Looking good. Some people don't like welding them back together without using a jig, but I have heard of guys doing it without and not having any problems. Looks like a good cheap alternative to the 8 3/4.
           
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          • dart360swinger

            dart360swinger Boosted

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            Ya I kinda figure as long as the tacks hold it really cant go anywhere. Hopefully.


            Jake
             
          • fishy68

            fishy68 Tyr Fryr's Inc. FABO Gold Member

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            Actually it can if you get it too hot which can happen real easy using a welder. Heat can warp it a lot easier than you might think. Even thick metal like that. Your best bet is to weld a little (1 inch at a time) then go to the other side and weld a little. Back and forth like that letting it cool a couple minutes between welds. JMO
             
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            • dart360swinger

              dart360swinger Boosted

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              I just meant if I weld it right (like you discribed) it shouldn't move, or warp enough to make a difference.


              I started on the dissasembly this morning. Some one who owned the car before me welded a trailer hitch to the frame. I'm probably going to leave the 1/4 inch plate on the frame, since the leaf's are wider than the frame anyways, it should just add some strength.

              You can see the big difference in rear-ends. The 8.8 has a whole inch bigger axle tube than the 8". The axle shafts themselves are a lot larger on the 8.8 too. I'll pull one later and take a picture of the two. For now here's a couple pics.

              DSCN0193.JPG

              DSCN0194.JPG

              DSCN0195.JPG

              DSCN0199.JPG

              DSCN0200.JPG
               
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