904 torque converter recommendations

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pearljam724

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1969 torqueflite 904 with a stock converter. Believe stock converter stall rate is around 1100 without me physically testing it at this point. I know converters are very expensive. I’m looking to increase the stall to about 2000. I know you have to implement a few specifications on your specific car to get the right amount of stall for a new converter.
Has anyone installed a 2000 - 2500 stall converter in the past few years for under $350 ? Which make and model do you recommend in that price range. Elaborate on your satisfaction and what the changed characteristics were like. I know good converters cost more. But, I just want to increase the stall a little for the least spent.
Is it necessary to put a new converter on that is locking ? What does locking do, act like a rev limiter ? Being small blocks are externally balanced. Is it necessary to buy a converter that is balanced with weights ? It’s a moderate small block engine with about 300-350 hp. Small performance upgrades, etc.
I’m thinking about this Hughes
Hughes Street Rod Torque Converter Fits Chrysler Torqueflite A-904 2000 Stall | eBay
 
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Huh??? Only certain small block are external balance. I don't believe any, are under 1800 or so for stall speed. Locking would depend upon the transmission. Give details on what you specfically have. Engine, trans, car, gear, etc...
 
Huh??? Only certain small block are external balance. I don't believe any, are under 1800 or so for stall speed. Locking would depend upon the transmission. Give details on what you specfically have. Engine, trans, car, gear, etc...
I thought all 360 small blocks were externally balanced by the dampener ?
72 - 360 - larger unknown cam
B body - Convertible
294 gears - 8-3/4 rear end
So if that transmission came with a locking converter, you have to install a new one that locks ?
 
Only the 1973 340 was externally balanced as far as the LA engines go. All the rest were internal. Also, there are plenty of converters well below 1800 stall speed, such as trucks. I've seen as low as 1100. So I don't know where "that" came from.

A lockup converter is for a later model transmission designed to work with the lockup converter. They do exactly what the name implies. They lock completely up like an engaged clutch at a certain speed. The benefit of this is, it acts like another gear and lowers engine RPM for greater mileage on the highway through reduced engine RPM. Unless you have a lockup transmission, leave the lockup converter alone. It will not work with a standard non lockup transmission, such as the regular three speed 904.

Also, yes, there are plenty of converters under your 350 dollar mark, however, you need to keep in mind one thing. As the price of the converter gets cheaper, the quality also gets more poor. COnverter technology has come a very long way in just a few short years. Used to be if you wanted say, a 3500 converter, you had to put up with a lot of slippage "up to" around 3500 RPM where the converter finally locked up. Now, you can get a 5000 RPM stall converter that's tight enough to drive on the street and still not slip a great amount, but will still flash to 5000 RPM on an all out launch. Of course, you'll not want a 5000 stall. My point in all this is, regardless of how tempting a cheapass converter is, don't do it. You'll regret it. The converter is the single most important part of an automatic equipped car. It can make or break your entire build. I recommend spending between 350 and 450 on one. You can call a good converter company and tell them what you have and they will build you a custom converter to match your vehicle. Precision of New Hampton is one good company to work with.
 
Only the 1973 340 was externally balanced as far as the LA engines go. All the rest were internal. Also, there are plenty of converters well below 1800 stall speed, such as trucks. I've seen as low as 1100. So I don't know where "that" came from.

A lockup converter is for a later model transmission designed to work with the lockup converter. They do exactly what the name implies. They lock completely up like an engaged clutch at a certain speed. The benefit of this is, it acts like another gear and lowers engine RPM for greater mileage on the highway through reduced engine RPM. Unless you have a lockup transmission, leave the lockup converter alone. It will not work with a standard non lockup transmission, such as the regular three speed 904.

Also, yes, there are plenty of converters under your 350 dollar mark, however, you need to keep in mind one thing. As the price of the converter gets cheaper, the quality also gets more poor. COnverter technology has come a very long way in just a few short years. Used to be if you wanted say, a 3500 converter, you had to put up with a lot of slippage "up to" around 3500 RPM where the converter finally locked up. Now, you can get a 5000 RPM stall converter that's tight enough to drive on the street and still not slip a great amount, but will still flash to 5000 RPM on an all out launch. Of course, you'll not want a 5000 stall. My point in all this is, regardless of how tempting a cheapass converter is, don't do it. You'll regret it. The converter is the single most important part of an automatic equipped car. It can make or break your entire build. I recommend spending between 350 and 450 on one. You can call a good converter company and tell them what you have and they will build you a custom converter to match your vehicle. Precision of New Hampton is one good company to work with.

Huh??? All 360's are external balance. Are you feeling ok RRR? Harmonic balancer and Weight on torque converter. You probably don't have a lockup type transmission.
 
Huh??? All 360's are external balance. Are you feeling ok RRR? Harmonic balancer and Weight on torque converter. You probably don't have a lockup type transmission.

I was kinda takin that for granted. My bad. lol
 
Lockup trans has a smooth tip end on the convertor shaft. Non lock-up is splined to the end. I ran a cheap $180 mail order Boss Hogg convertor (about a 2400 stall) behind a 340 with a 3.91 rear and it worked fine.
 
Ok, we all agreed that the 360 is externally balanced, lol ! Do you still need a weight balanced converter ? How can I verify that I have locked converter/tranny or not ? Thanks guys
 
I just told you

116_0302_trans11_z_zpsuuovbl2f-jpg.jpg
 
Only the 1973 340 was externally balanced as far as the LA engines go. All the rest were internal. Also, there are plenty of converters well below 1800 stall speed, such as trucks. I've seen as low as 1100. So I don't know where "that" came from.

A lockup converter is for a later model transmission designed to
Huh??? All 360's are external balance. Are you feeling ok RRR? Harmonic balancer and Weight on torque converter. You probably don't have a lockup type transmission.

speed. The benefit of this is, it acts like another gear and lowers engine RPM for greater mileage on the highway through reduced engine RPM. Unless you have a lockup transmission, leave the lockup converter alone. It will not work with a standard non lockup transmission, such as the regular three speed 904.

Also, yes, there are plenty of converters under your
You guys might be able to help me verify and fix something else. My car originally had a 318, previous owner swapped in a 360. Being the 360 is externally balanced with dampener and 318 is internal balanced. How can I tell if someone installed the correct 360 balanced dampener ? Or the incorrect dampener from the 318 that is not balanced was put on my 360 ?
I assume the balanced 360 dampener can be verified by the round machined divits on the perimeter of the dampener ? Being a 318 is not externally balanced, a 318 balancer wouldn’t have these machined circles on the perimeter of dampener ?
 
You guys might be able to help me verify and fix something else. My car originally had a 318, previous owner swapped in a 360. Being the 360 is externally balanced with dampener and 318 is internal balanced. How can I tell if someone installed the correct 360 balanced dampener ? Or the incorrect dampener from the 318 that is not balanced was put on my 360 ?
I assume the balanced 360 dampener can be verified by the round machined divits on the perimeter of the dampener ? Being a 318 is not externally balanced, a 318 balancer wouldn’t have these machined circles on the perimeter of dampener ?

The 360 balancer will have either a scallop out of the balancer, or an extra weight on the front right behind the pulley. In other words, it won't be symmetrical all the way around.
 
Ok, we all agreed that the 360 is externally balanced, lol ! Do you still need a weight balanced converter ? How can I verify that I have locked converter/tranny or not ? Thanks guys

It depends on which flex plate you use. B&M makes a nice round plate with a "bite" out of it to be used with a neutral balanced converter. With the stock flex plate, yes you need the weighted converter, as well as the correct balancer.
 
The 360 balancer will have either a scallop out of the balancer, or an extra weight on the front right behind the pulley. In other words, it won't be symmetrical all the way around.
That’s what I thought, damn. Must be the right one, lol ! You’re talking about a 3/4” machined groove about 1/3 of the way around on the inside or outside perimeter ? A 318 balancer has no grooves or machined circle divots ? How come *** clowns on EBay sell balancers listed to work on all 3 engines ?
 
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That’s what I thought, damn. Must be the right one, lol ! You’re talking about a 3/4” machined groove about 1/3 of the way around on the inside or outside perimeter ? A 318 balancer has no grooves or machined circle divots ? How come *** clowns on EBay sell balancers listed to work on all 3 engines ?

That's correct. That's a better description than what I gave. It's either that groove, or the one with the extra weight. The two are interchangeable.

As to your other question........because they're stupid. lol
 
I thought all 360 small blocks were externally balanced by the dampener ?
72 - 360 - larger unknown cam
B body - Convertible
294 gears - 8-3/4 rear end
So if that transmission came with a locking converter, you have to install a new one that locks ?
No the 72's didn't have a lock up. No lock up's until mid to late 80's.
 
I think my engine has the wrong balancer on it. I just now started putting pieces together in my mind. Please don’t comment unless you know without a reasonable doubt that it is in fact a 318 balancer ? I painted this over the summer and never dawned on me to double check that someone previously put the correct one on my 360 or not , This one doesn’t have a machined half moon groove on the exterior like the one pictured above, at least I can’t feel that it does now that it’s installed. It’s definitely an original cast steel small block dampener. My engine is definitely a 360. Confirmed numbers on drivers side of block. Clearly says 360. Plus it has the 360 only oil pan and 360 only rear oil pan seal. And 360 numbers matching cast heads. To rule those things out. No mistake it’s a 360.

D161F45E-3923-4904-815F-ACEE85DD3562.jpeg
 
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Those machines holes could be to make the balance zero. I have a balancer like that.
That’s what they’re for. They machine (remove ) metal to balance. Rather than adding a weight across from the holes. I wish I knew the part number and if it’s on the part somewhere It would suck to buy another one. Remove and install it and come to find out it was correct. But, I think Autozone will take it back if that’s the case. They sell a Dorman OE dampener for this engine for $100. Maybe, I ll give that a try. But, if I knew the part number was on it. That would be better. The other side of mine looks exactly like the blue one pictured above.
 
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