A body 4 speed issues

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70dusterA62

70dusterA62

72 Dusta
Joined
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The issues that I have 2 trannys decide ehich I can used for swap over 3 speed out of 72 duster 318 soon swap 340 anyhow apparely the reverse does not work smoothly and well 1st and 2nd gear my suspicion probably sycros are worn and reverse gear bushing probably worned as well and even shifter mechanism seems wont go reverse very well seems hard and stuck. By the way did align up the holes while adjustment has made and see not much improvement in anyway.
 
As fare as reverse you can't tell by hand, because they are big straight cut gears so the main shaft and the output shaft has to be perfectly lined up before it will just slide in easy. Even in the car with the motor running you have to push to get it in reverse. I have had many 833's apart and never seen the reverse gear bushing worn out, it never spins, only in reverse.
 
I see yeah I,figure plan to have the trans fresh it up. As far I put all together set up the linkage , rods, shifter mechanism set up, alignment made so try shift 1st 2nd and 3rd and 4th seems not shift smooth as it should. far as 1st and 2nd not as smooth like stiffy shift.
 
Dude.
Punctuation.
Helps us help you.
 
oldpunko77 said:
I see yeah I,figure plan to have the trans fresh it up. As far I put all together set up the linkage , rods, shifter mechanism set up, alignment made so try shift 1st 2nd and 3rd and 4th seems not shift smooth as it should. far as 1st and 2nd not as smooth like stiffy shift.
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on the 833 four speed trans. loosen up side cover, disconnect shifter, shift trans into reverse. tighten cover back down. the interlock between reverse and low gear is off. that's how you set it. then use alignment pin to adjust shifter.
 
I'd like to help you but I can't follow your English.

Has your testing been done in the car, moving,and under power?
Cuz you're not gonna have much success shifting an A833 with the input and output shafts both stationary. At most, you might get two gears smooth shifting. If you set your brass up like I do, maybe you will have to smash the shifter to get a gear,heehee. But man does it synchronize under power!

If you suspect the shifter, just pop the rods off the levers that are attached to the tranny, and shift it using the short levers.(Use a big plier or something. Do not use the little nuts unless you have loc-tighted those ). If the tranny is already in the car, then get the rear wheels in the air, and have a friend rotate the tires in the normal direction, at a very slow speed. This will give the clutching teeth a fighting chance to line up. As soon as you pop it into gear, of course, the wheels will come to a sudden stop, so the tire rotation needs to be very slow. Something inside needs to be spinning; either the m/s or the input,it doesn't matter which one.
 
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Sorry the trans never put in the car I bought two trannys from two different swap meet event sorry I need clear up little more details.
 
Somehow I just knew you were gonna say that,lol

So same story, just no spinning of the tires involved. Just spin the front or the rear.
But here's the thing,on the bench,they will never be super smooth shifting like a top-loader or a Saginaw, etc. Those gears are big and heavy.The brass are heavy. And the sliders are heavy. The clutch-points get beat up too.
Don't spend time worrying about how it shifts ,on the bench, without the shafts spinning.
There is also no way to tell if the brass are gonna work, while the tranny is assembled. Well almost no way. A seasoned builder has his tricks, but even I don't trust the tricks, and I have built thousands of manual transmissions. Really there's just two ways; roadtest, or complete tear-down.

Except for reverse; make sure that once it is in reverse, that it slides easily from all the way in, to almost all the way out, and back. It must not rub on the low-gear interlock.Cuz that will just be so terribly annoying once installed.
 
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Well i am going to greased it up and check ball is in place or maybe wrong ball not exact size original ball. See go from there. So far I dont see any damage and bearing felt nice firm while hand spinning.
 
If you are using the old style cover, with the ball detents, then
you MUST use the correct size balls, the biggest that will fit in the tube. And you must install the inter-ball steel pin;it prevents selecting two gears at once. A wrong size ball can possibly allow a slider to bounce off the clutching teeth of one gear or the other.
 
I am thinking you made good point so I,used this tranny put in my 72 duster as converted into 340 clone as a driver. Thats my plan.
 
AJ/FormS said:
If you are using the old style cover, with the ball detents, then
you MUST use the correct size balls, the biggest that will fit in the tube. And you must install the inter-ball steel pin;it prevents selecting two gears at once. A wrong size ball can possibly allow a slider to bounce off the clutching teeth of one gear or the other.
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I SEE YEAH so what are they?
 
Okay It been a while but no idea what steel pin look like so I ll look in second tranny which I bought to see if have pin and ball to compare to other and replace it.
 
Thanks for the help and go from there. Just to know I have box full of balls variety of sizes I use one ball as close as I can get to fit the holes where that attach on springs in between of two sides.
 
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