A body Dana 60

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Brambles

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So I bought a car that has no drivetrain and need to put one in, so far I have the engine and tranny but I'm having trouble finding a reasonably priced 8 3/4 so I'm thinking of upgrading to a Dana 60

I know a 60 is overkill for a small block but maybe in the future I will want to jump up to a bigblock.

The questions are, how much horsepower do you loose in parasitic drag having to turn the bigger Dana 60 rear diff in comparison to a 8 3/4?

I don't need a 1000 hp rear axle, is there anyone who builds custom lenght basic rear diffs good to 600 hp or so for a reasonable price?
 
Don't know what you consider reasonable, but liegel84.com is in the process of building an 8 3/4 for my 66 Valiant. He is building it to my specs and the housing/axle package is in the $700 range. I don't consider that too pricey and best of all he is building it to use B/E body brakes, which means I can find drums when I need them. Hope this helps. :thumbup:
 
I was watching a show one day that actually went into this topic. They took an a body with an 8 3/4 3:91 rear and ran it down the the track 3 times then replaced the 8 3/4 with a Dana 60 4:10 rear and ran it down the track 3 times and took the best time of each and compaired them, they found that there wasn't really enough of a difference to state which was better. They figured that they kinda cancelled eachother out sortta speek. Basically the 8 3/4 was lighter i.e fast enough to keep up with the Dana 60's big gears and the Dana 60's big gears sent the car down the track fast enough to keep up with the lighter 8 3/4.

I hope that helped, sorry i can't remember the shows name but there are two hosts an older guy balding who likes mopars and never gets to drive the cars and a younger guy drives the cars and is kindda anoying,
 
I have read somewhere but unable to remember where(HELL TO GET OLD) that Ford 9" and big Dana's loose 5% HP because of the size,weight and the way the gears ar in the housings!
 
Remember that the 8 3/4 was used on hemis and 440 six packs. I ran a 9 3/4" in a Super B and don't think I'd do it again cuss of the weight and a lot harder to swap gears. I prefer the threaded adjusters on the 8 3/4 carrier instead of the shims the dana uses.

Terry
 
I know this isnt my thread, but I've got a backbraced 8 3/4 with moser axles 4.5" BP with 3" screw-in studs narrowed ready to go rearend for sale. I've decided to go with a Dana. The housing measures 46" from housing end to housing end. The perches have not been welded yet because I haven't got the engine trans combo in to set the pinion angle. This rear fit my 66 Dart perfectly with a 15x10 rim with 4.5" backspacing and relocated springs. Comes with 10" brakes, or I can include 11" brakes if wanted. The center section is a freshly rebuilt 742 case. Rebuilt by a professional with brand new bearings and fresh 4.88 gear. Diff is a minispool. I'm asking $800 for this setup complete and ready to run drum to drum. with a fresh coat of zero rust paint on it. I'm near Sacramento CA. I have even driven on the rear. It has only been used for mock up. email me at [email protected] if your interested.

P1200062.jpg
 
Unless you get a really sweet deal on a dana diff complete,and have for sure 600HP+ then use the dana.If not use a banjo diff and do all the strengthoning you want,and be able to swap gear sets.Mrmopartech
 
This may sound strange but the heavier Dana my actually help make the car quicker because if there is one place a nasty A-body needs a weight increase it is in the rear where it can help the car hook better.
 
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