A few auto body questions

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
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I got a few questions sorry if I get long winded but here goes. I got a 72 Scamp im doing body work on my own and have very little experience.

First question. Im stripping down with 50grit discs. The top coat was flaking severly and after getting that off im down into the factory primer and bare metal in some areas. What grit should I go back over? Can I follow the 50 grit up with a 180 then epoxy? Or should I follow it up with something else?

Next question is I dont plan to go all they way to bare metal. I really like what im seeing with the original primer or what ever it is under the factory top coat. Nice and smooth no cracks or chips in it. Is it ok to not go to bare metal and follow up with the above method?

Also how can I be darn sure that none of the underneith is Laqure finish as most finishes now arent compatable with that?


Last question is paint gun. Id like something a little better then the cheap $10 harbor freight gun i used for the engine bay. I see they have a little better one for $34. or can yall recommend a good ECONOMY gun? Even a good used one would be ok.
 
Lets see how I do with this one....

You can not skip from 50 to 180, it will take you a lifetime to get 50 grit sanding scratches out with 180 grit.

If you are done with the 50, go 80, then 180.

Next part.

Yes it is more than fine not to go to bare metal if the foundation is solid. Some would even argue that it is better not to go to bare metal because the factory corrosion resistance process was really very good.

Third question.

You have it down to metal in some spots, if you feather out one of those sanded edges you should be able to find what is the color of the factory sealer.

That is what you will be looking for (the stopping point) as you sand down the car.


I probably would have done things differently then the way you are going but what I suggested should get you back on track.


(I checked Chaigslist for your area and didn't see any spray gun deals)
 
Yea what he said lol

I would also suggest that if you have any areas that need filler work that you leave the 50 grit sand scratches in those area's. That will do two things, one, help you see where the dents were after you epoxy, and two help hold the filler on.

As far as spray guns, I use a $10 harbor freight gun everyday in the restoration shop, believe it or not... as a primer gun.. It's one of my best spraying guns to be honest. Although it has been gone through I wouldn't trade it for anything. Just don't leave them in lacquer thinner to clean them over night.... fan adjustment is made of plastic and melts lol...
 
Not sure I have any 80grit discs but I do have 100grit disc would it be ok to go to that next? I went with the 50grit as im using an electric orbital sander and im sure its not as effective as an air powered DA.

I didnt mind the HF gun. I even bought a 1.8 tip for them for my primers. Just thought maybe this was the time to have something a bit better.

I see some sort of red primer on the bottom, followed by what looks to be 2 coats of grey (could be 1 but looks like 2) followed by top coat.
 
There is nothing wrong with using the 100 grit. It is just that it will take more time, and more discs to get it to the 100grit scratch level.

Grant
 
New question im in the filler work stage and getting close to being done. Will it hurt anything to wash the car before primer? just a mild soap and water wash?
 
I wouldn't. I would blow it off and wipe it down with wax and grease remover. Try to keep the wax and grease remover off body filler if you can.

The last thing you want is moisture absorbed into anything. It will cause your paint to fail on a nice hot day.
 
i didnt do a very good job washing it before starting. But the trunk channel surrounding is dirty and the tail panel. None of these areas have filler is that ok to was them
 
The harbor frieght gun will work fine. I have had expensive guns crapout (costing me time and money)on me and cheap ones never. So if your on a tight budget stick with one of there guns just stay within the tip limits of the gun and paint, primers, and sealers that stay in that 1.5 to 1.8 range of the gun and what the paint system requires. I believe thats what size tips come with their gun.

It all depends on what quality finish. I like to go down to bare metal if its bare here and some primer there or paint. I do this because of the mill of paint i want even as possible all over. I also want to know that i wont have failure from old stuff later. You can sware its level with filler and it feels that way and when your color goes on it tells the truth. It can get past blocking too if you use the wrong size sanding blocks.

Hes right dont go from 50 to 180 you will kill yourself. 50 is for heavy fillers trying to shape or strip crap even clean welds. I go to 80 or 100 then go higher from that

Iam sure you have heard this everywhere but prep prep prep is king. I block sand 3 timeas at least. Then the cheap paint they gave me looks nice because of the prep. You can do great things with that cheap gun its a good surface thats key
patience.
Hope that made since
 
The problem with washing the car is that any bare steel will flash rust. You might not see it, but it will be there.
 
i got a couple of fenders off ebay from a new mexico dude.

sanding helps me find all the dings / dents (must be a 100 lol)

anyways, what i have found is the lower 1/3 of the fender has pits under the paint.

not real bad, but even being in the new mexico desert, the doglegs both behind and in front of the wheel well from the bottom up to about 1 foot from the bottom had rust pits under the primer. == i'm goin bare metal and getting the pits out

i'm not sure the cause of this... my guess is normal driving whenever little stones hit the paint, even though they dont take the paint off, they make a "loose spot" which allows condensation under the paint at the spot where the rock hits. that is my only explanation why those areas were pitted up.
 
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