A Lesson on Timing Needed

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JoJo

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Purchased a 318 from a 8? Diplomat (Hydraulic setup). I performed a quick rebuild and installed a Mallory Unilite distributor, 4-bbl carburetor & intake, and a double roller timing chain. To set the timing, do I bring the #1 cylinder up like other 318's or is there something I'm suppose to do differently? Also, the rotor does not point towards the #1 cylinder while piston is up...
 
No1 only fires every OTHER time the crank comes around. When no1 is not firing (and the piston is up at TDC, it's just not on the compression stroke) then no6 fires

(If you put the distributor in towards no 1 and no6 is ready to fire, this is what everyone calls "180 out" and causes much backfiring up through the carb. The distributor is 1/2 turn off, or 180*)

The steps I always recommend for an unknown engine --one you have not dealt with before, is first confirm that TDC is actually accurate, I.E. the outer balancer ring may have slipped. "Back in" the day, this was REALLY common on 352/390 Ferds.

This is easy using a "piston stop."

Details in this thread

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=140556

Next, you need to get the distributor in. You can assume, or check, that the distributor drive gear is installed right, but it's easy to check. Just bring the engine up on TDC, and look straight down into the dist. mount. The distributor drive slot should point to the forward most intake bolt on the driver side.

Photo of the drive gear orientation:

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss247/Elwenil/Misc Mopar/0522101136.jpg

You can actually set the engine up and time it with the distributor "anywhere" but we'll detail "the right" way

NOW you need to determine if no1 is ready to fire. There are TWO ways to do this

1 If you have the valve covers off, bring the timing marks NOT to TDC, but "where you want" the intitial timing, IE let's say, 10* BTDC. LOOK at the no1 and no6 valves. If no 1 valves are both closed, then no1 is ready to fire. If no6 valves are closed, you need to rotate the crank one turn

2 Second way, if the engine is together, is to remove the no1 plug, stick your finger in the hole, and bump the engine on the starter. You might have to "go round" a couple of times the first time you do this so you know what to expect

WHEN you start to feel compression on your finger, turn your attention to the timing marks, and as above, bring the marks up NOT to TDC, but again, where you want initial timing.

Now just drop the dist in with the rotor pointing to the no1 plug wire tower. I always take the time to scribe a file mark on the top of the distributor case exactly under the no1 tower location. This way, you can get the dist. where you want it without arguing with the cap.

So now, we have the timing marks where we want initial time, and we have dropped in the dist.

NOW rotate the dist CW (retard) on a small block, and then slowly rotate it back CCW until the points open (if you have points) or if you have a breakerless, until the reluctor wheel tip is in the middle of the pickup coil.

Put the cap and wires on and START the engine. Once you learn to do this, you will NEVER have to screw with timing again on a startup.

Then just get your light and adjust for correct timing, and off ya go.
 
x2 (what The Man said), but you can also static time w/ a test light (but you still have to have #1 up)
 
Thank you so much 67Dart. :prayer: That information was very helpful.

I'm still having issues with the ignition system. Hopefully I'll have the little gremlin that is causing problems captured quick. :banghead:
 
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