a question on brake lights.

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grassy

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Location
Nova Scotia
'75 Duster.

Car is in storage and the manuals I think are in it...

Is the rear brake light separate from the blinker or does one bulb do double duty ?

Thanks
ian.
 
On all these old Mopars, the bulbs do "double duty." The brake light switch feeds power to the TS switch, and it routes power to the TS bulbs depending on the position of the TS switch
 
I am following the lead of another member thinking I should install led lights for the brakes/blinkers/back up lights. What I have discovered:

"When converting a vehicle for use with LED Turn Signal bulbs, it is often not enough to simply replace the regular incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. In many cases, you will have to either replace the car's flasher module, or trick the flasher module into thinking that there are "regular" bulbs in your car......and here is why:


An LED bulb only consumes a very small amount of electrical current. The turn signal flasher (if it's a regular "thermal" flasher) was designed for bulbs that consume a lot of power: The power consumed by the bulb runs through the flasher and heats up a bimetal switch. When the bimetal deforms from the heat, it breaks the circuit (causing your lamp to go off), this causes the switch to cool down and go back to it's original shape (it will close the circuit again, the lights come on, the switch heats up, and the cycle begins again).


If the amount of power going though the switch is very little, not enough heat is generated in the flasher to cause the bimetal to bend. The most common symptom is that your turn signal lights simply stay on. If you run a MIX of regular and LED bulbs (say regular in the front, LED in the back), you may not notice it but if your incandescent bulb breaks, you're back to nothing-flashing. "


BTW, my duster has 2 flashers:
Turn Signal EF32 Hazard TF552/536

To fix, you either get an equivalent led compatible flasher (or 2 in my case) or install load resisters. I have found an equivalent for the first but not the second.


How would you go about adding a load resistor on the line and how would you spec it out.. ?


I have looked for the power use specs on several lights but no joy..


ian.
 
I wouldn't fool with load resistors. Best is to get an "electronic flasher". It has a circuit that controls the flash rate, not the old bi-metal arm. They go way back and auto parts should carry them in the bubble packs. Any change to the lights messes up the old flashers, such as connecting trailer lights.
 
Would something like this work ?

Led Load Resistors 50W 6ohm
View attachment mB4W0ofnbEnHKU952GQPKqA.jpg

Those vampire wiring clips should be tossed.
I guess to push things a bit farther, what do you need to convert your halogens to low beam led, high beam halogen..?

Thanks.

..waiting for the BIG storm to hit..
 
I wouldn't fool with load resistors. Best is to get an "electronic flasher". It has a circuit that controls the flash rate, not the old bi-metal arm. They go way back and auto parts should carry them in the bubble packs. Any change to the lights messes up the old flashers, such as connecting trailer lights.

Bill, I have found one for the regular blinkers but a led compatible for the 4 way flashers eludes me...

ian.
 
Found this...not sure it will fit..

TF552/536 Electronic Flasher Turn Signal Hazard 12V

Item Number TF552/536
Flasher Type Thermal Flasher
Num Terminals 2
Type Combination TS & Haz
Style Round
Pilot Circuit na
Amp Capacity 12
Volt Capacity 12
No Lamps Unit Will Flash 1 to 6
No Lamps for Turn Signal 2 to 3
Lamps Hazard 2 to 6
Candlepower Rating 32.00
Flashers Comply SAE J945, J950

View attachment a20792913df3f0476b6a0e_m.jpg
 
If I may,
Never use those crimp on connectors, they suck. (can't trust em and they corrode)
As Grassy stated in his comment LED's don't have enough amp load to make a thermal flasher work, and an electronic flasher will keep working even if some or ALL the bulbs don't work (incandescant or LED either one)

Bill is right on the nose with not using load resistors, as they are a waste of time, money, and amps.
One of the reasons we change to LED's is to lessen the amp load on the system, and load resistors make using LED's pointless if they add a load to make the flasher work.

Grassy, notice where in the specs of that flasher it says "Thermal Flasher"?
That's not it.
Solid state and electronic are different things.

Napa part number Signal Stat 262 or equivalent is what you want.
 
Trail,

Thanks for your input. I think this topic may be of interest to many... being seen is important ...

Also for the NAPA tip...I have a couple of guys in our local that don't mind talking mopar with me..

Ian.
 
If I may,
Never use those crimp on connectors, they suck.


If I ever catch any of you using "Skotchloks" you do not WANT'a know what I'd like to do with you

I thought for sure I could Google "Scotchlok fail" and get plenty of hits, but I guess not................

hA3CA6D6A
 
To use this

ohmspie-450x450.gif


Decide what you are looking for

Decide "what do I know?"

You know you have a 6 ohm resistor, and you know the system voltage runs about 14V when running

P (power) in watts in the left upper quadrant, you use the two things you know, voltage (E) and resistance (R). The formula then, is P = E(squared) / R

So 14 volts squared divided by 6 ohms is 32.67 watts
 
If I ever catch any of you using "Skotchloks" you do not WANT'a know what I'd like to do with you

I thought for sure I could Google "Scotchlok fail" and get plenty of hits, but I guess not................

Oh I'm sure you would make your oppinion known.:D
 
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