JGC403
Well-Known Member
Can the A535/NP2500 bell be modified to bolt to a 833OD? Bering retainers are the same size, so it looks like new holes would have to be drilled and tapped. Has anyone done it? Ill-advised?
A535/ NP2500 bellhousing
- Thread starter JGC403
- Start date
-
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
Is the housing solid, where the 833 pattern is?
If so, I don't see why it wouldn't work, if the starter ring gear on the flywheel is 130 tooth and is the same diameter for the later trans.
One thing you may want to check is total depth. check how deep it is with a T square, from the engine mount face of the bellhousing, to the transmission mount area. If it's the same depth as an 833 bellhousing, your spline and crank index should be good.
If you need depth measurement from an 833 bell, I can get it from mine.
If so, I don't see why it wouldn't work, if the starter ring gear on the flywheel is 130 tooth and is the same diameter for the later trans.
One thing you may want to check is total depth. check how deep it is with a T square, from the engine mount face of the bellhousing, to the transmission mount area. If it's the same depth as an 833 bellhousing, your spline and crank index should be good.
If you need depth measurement from an 833 bell, I can get it from mine.
JGC403
Well-Known Member
I just wasn't sure about drilling new holes in the bell housing, strength wise. The bearing retainer is slightly longer than the 833.
The input shaft were the same length up to the splines. The A535 is a little longer where it goes into the crankshaft. But not by much. I could see where the pilot bearing was riding on the shaft and it looks like it would be OK on the 833 input shaft.
Has anyone else used the A535 bell on a 833?
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
If it's marginal, you're on the right track.
As long as the aluminum is solid and not webbed or anything where the trans bolts will go, they drilled the same piece of aluminum for that trans, so there is no reason you couldn't set it up in a press or set a drill with a squaring jig from harbor freight or some place like that and do the same. Cut it with oil and use the right size bit for your tap, work the tap back and fourth every 1/4-1/2 turn and clean periodically with oil and you should be good. Aftermarket wheels have multiple bolt patterns these days and do fine under side and radial loads with the holes right next to each other.
As long as the aluminum is solid and not webbed or anything where the trans bolts will go, they drilled the same piece of aluminum for that trans, so there is no reason you couldn't set it up in a press or set a drill with a squaring jig from harbor freight or some place like that and do the same. Cut it with oil and use the right size bit for your tap, work the tap back and fourth every 1/4-1/2 turn and clean periodically with oil and you should be good. Aftermarket wheels have multiple bolt patterns these days and do fine under side and radial loads with the holes right next to each other.
JGC403
Well-Known Member
Nope won't work for about 3 reasons. Matted the 833 to the bell to see how well everything would line up. First reason side cover is in the way of the slave cylinder, 2nd reason, on bolt hole is left hanging in the air, 3rd reason the holes would have to be drilled on the edge of a lip on the bell, see pictures below.
The black spot to the left of the original bolt hole is where I would have to drill and tap a new hole in the last picture.
The black spot to the left of the original bolt hole is where I would have to drill and tap a new hole in the last picture.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
Are you trying to use a slave cylinder?
It doesn't look like it obstructs the side cover access or linkage operation.
If that is all that is keeping you from using it, you could deal with the hole being off center from the raised mount area. If you used the transmission to guide a pilot hole, drill out the spot all the way through the other side and go with a bigger hole all the way through, then tap the bigger hole 3/4 through in the bell and install a threadded sleeve with loctite and JB weld the shallow side up a bit.
You could use the stock bolt size with a fix like that. JB makes an aluminum part repair epoxy that people use successfully with gasket areas on water jackets that is threadable, so it should work to fill that low portion in the trans to put a double threaded sleeve in place.
It doesn't look like it obstructs the side cover access or linkage operation.
If that is all that is keeping you from using it, you could deal with the hole being off center from the raised mount area. If you used the transmission to guide a pilot hole, drill out the spot all the way through the other side and go with a bigger hole all the way through, then tap the bigger hole 3/4 through in the bell and install a threadded sleeve with loctite and JB weld the shallow side up a bit.
You could use the stock bolt size with a fix like that. JB makes an aluminum part repair epoxy that people use successfully with gasket areas on water jackets that is threadable, so it should work to fill that low portion in the trans to put a double threaded sleeve in place.
JGC403
Well-Known Member
But there will only be 3 bolts holding the trans to the bell. The middle pic shows that one bolt hole isn't anywhere near the bell.
DaveBonds
Garage Trash
Hard to see on my screen, but I think I see the issue. Yeah, you could set up an adapter of sorts, but you'd have to machine the index center at the very least.
Best to spend that money on another bellhousing.
Best to spend that money on another bellhousing.
-
