A833 input shaft, crank bushing

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barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
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The crank is deep enough and the bushing went in pretty darn tight. The input shaft will be pretty darn tight in there, how tight is too tight!??
 
barbee6043 said:
The crank is deep enough and the bushing went in pretty darn tight. The input shaft will be pretty darn tight in there, how tight is too tight!??
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Common problem? Place where I dyno at uses a reamer on all Mopar pilot bushings that he installs. Don't know the size...
 
Like the oil pump drive shaft it should be reamed to size and slide in fairly easy with a dab of lube. Tight means friction . Friction means heat and wear. Be sure to dial indicate the bell. If you do not have the original bell with the original motor it should be done. Good performance bells have weld-on dowel pin holes for this reason.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Like the oil pump drive shaft it should be reamed to size and slide in fairly easy with a dab of lube. Tight means friction . Friction means heat and wear. Be sure to dial indicate the bell. If you do not have the original bell with the original motor it should be done. Good performance bells have weld-on dowel pin holes for this reason.
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I know are correct about the bell, you actually think I have that fancy stuff! lol
 
Its a magnetic dial indicator. "Harbor Freight" you don't need a expensive tool. and you'll find several uses. Or used on line. I would give you one but you are to dam faraway. They also sell off set dowels for the block just for this reason.

When building a driveline its the little tedious things that make them work like they should. A little here and a little there and before you know it you can feel the difference in the seat of your pants. Its like grabbing that shopping cart with the wobbly wheel. I always go back and get another cart. Its a no brainer.

I see some people grab the cart I put back and before you know it they are leaning into it pushing their load of groceries. LMFAO
 
^^^ I have a good dial caliper but when I moved to Tx I have never found it!! I did buy one at HF last week but have no way to check its accuraccy yet! It was plastic and cheap, but if it works good, I am cheap too! LOL
HF is a 3 hour trip here!!! We will make the journey before long as that is where Sams is too. A once every 6 month deal!!
 
barbee6043 said:
^^^ I have a good dial caliper but when I moved to Tx I have never found it!! I did buy one at HF last week but have no way to check its accuraccy yet! It was plastic and cheap, but if it works good, I am cheap too! LOL
HF is a 3 hour trip here!!! We will make the journey before long as that is where Sams is too. A once every 6 month deal!!
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Dial indicator not a dial caliper. 2 way different measuring tools for sure.
 
barbee6043 said:
Trying to say dial caliper, handy dandy from HF!!!
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Ah, you wanted to measure the input shaft. Can't to that with a dial indicator. You can measure run out with one though and you can't with a dial caliper. There calipers, dial calipers, and digital calipers. Dial indicators and digital indicators. Confused yet? LOL I think I just confused myself.
 
^^^ Hey just mail one of your old half woreout good magnetic dial indicators and we can still be buds!!! lol
I just had to order primers, and assorted other body stuff, bout wiped me out especially after I donated a years income to the BLM movement. Maybe it was a scam?? it said something about moving all freeloading, rioting, criminal crybabies to Bureau of Land Management ground, way out somewhere off the grid. Dunno know.
 
barbee6043 said:
^^^ Hey just mail one of your old half woreout good magnetic dial indicators and we can still be buds!!! lol
I just had to order primers, and assorted other body stuff, bout wiped me out especially after I donated a years income to the BLM movement. Maybe it was a scam?? it said something about moving all freeloading, rioting, criminal crybabies to Bureau of Land Management ground, way out somewhere off the grid. Dunno know.
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Let's not talk politics here. It's a good way to get your post deleted. Save it for the N&P forum.
 
You know about there being two pilot bushings right?
One for manual trans cranks and another for originally automatic cranks.
And there is a needle-roller type that you can install into the TC hub register.
 
I know there is a shorter bushing, I guess for the non drilled crank. I do have that roller type but I have not heard many good things about it anyway. Not plannngon sing it though.

II probably boogered the busing a little getting it in maybe Gonna pop it out and redo and do from there. The crank is drilled.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I installed that needle roller in 1999, and left a used oilite bushing in the crank. I haven't heard any complaints from them yet.
The last time I was in there was about 2006
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I found that bearing here on the shelf I had. Never used one before but will put that in. It will out live me unless made in China.
 
It was my first time too. It surprised the heck outta me.
I did however ,wash out the grease that was in it, and installed some hi-temp Moly grease. I have had good success with that blackchit.
 
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