AC Car.. Drop In or Piece it Together AC System

[Dantra]

My 69 Dart is factory AC car that I converted to 134 and then Hemi Swapped. Currently, the car is getting a re-fresh and the factory AC box is no longer an option. Was never really thrilled with it anyway. I'm switching to electronic pedal and an 8 Speed.. Neither is oem friendly when combined with the increased tunnel size and pedal to box interference.

I've read alot threads about the drop in unit, from classic air, for non ac cars. I know others have made adapters etc and it is possible, but is that the best direction? I'm struggling with which unit will fit best and produce the best cold air. I've seen others mention vintage air but not really go into any detail about what unit they went with or how they ran their lines. although I'm sure there is some info here about it and I'm just not seeing it.. . Not overly concerned about hidden lines and all that and I don't want a under dash unit.

Thanks for any input.

 

[Wolfgange]

" Old Air" Had one in my 49 ford coupe . It was heat and air. Never had a problem . Never had to recharge . Had it for 8 years

 

[Yellow Duster]

I pieced together a Vintage Air system for my Power Wagon. I used the largest gen 2 evap/heater box and fit the biggest condensor I could. Nice and cold in Texas heat! No one sells a kit for my truck, but it was cheaper than bying a system. I saved money on items like the condensor. Summit sells UAC, their condensor was much cheaper that Vintage.

 

[jbc426]

I just bought a Gen IV evaporator and inside cabin kit for a 55 Chevy or something because Summit had it of sale for 25% off. I installed this in a 57 Dodge pickup I'm building. The rest of the components including the triple pass(R-134 requirement) condenser and receiver dryer I bought from Nostalgic Air, and the 99 5.9 Magnum based engine had a Sanden Compressor driven by the factory serpentine belt.

I had to fabricate a few simple sheet metal brackets, but it's pretty simple without requiring a specific model kit.

I did the same thing years ago for my 68 Barracuda because there were no kits for that either at the time. Any hydraulic hose repair shop can crimp the lines.

The biggest key for a comfortable cabin is to insulate the interior using a Dynamat type product to dampen any panel resonation in conjunction with a double foil sided jute insulating blanket. I cut a dozen or more panels (like a seamstress makes clothing) and fit that into the cabin from windshield to rear window, behind the door panels and even under the headliner. I then use aluminum duct tape to seal the seams and secure the edges covering as much of the interior as possible.

The results in my '70 E-Body are stunning. When the door closes, it sound like I'm in a bank vault. Pictures are of my A-Body too.