BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Posting info here since more relevant to early A bodies. I hope this helps someone. I have two 1965 Mopars - Dart GT 273 and Newport 383. I suspect the non-factory(?) AC in both was dealer-installed. AC was still rare then and maybe often added at the dealership, but they could have been added later at an auto-air shop.
The Newport has a York aluminum compressor, which was used on Fords for many years. The Dart has a Tecumseh cast iron compressor, with the same bolt pattern and basic size and connections. The brackets work for either. SB & BB brackets are similar but don't appear to interchange. The 1st photo shows the Dart bracket sitting on the Newport compressor. Note the crack I found.
The reason why anyone should care is that these brackets are golden, so grab if you see one. They get you 90% of the way to mounting a modern compressor. They were probably used only in early models, and probably mostly in the South and West. The 2nd photo shows a Sanden compressor sitting on the bracket. A $45 adapter can mate them (ebay). A slicker $75 adapter (ebay) also eliminates the idler tensioner. I may go cheap and make my own w/ a few threaded blocks. I got the Sanden compressor for $25 new on ebay, but usually they go for ~$100. They are smaller, lighter, and more efficient than the old ones.
The 3rd photo shows the unsightly repair I made with my $99 Harbor Freight wire welder and 30 min total welding experience. I drilled a hole at the end of the crack and drilled into the crack at intervals. A little epoxy can smooth it out for paint.
The 4th photo shows the York AC clutch apart. The bearing started squealing last week. First time I disassembled one. Remove the front bolt and the clutch comes off the shaft with slight prying since the cone is steep. After removing the circlip, I beat the shaft out of the inner bearing race (hard), while resting the pulley on a vise (max jaw opening). After removing the spiral clip, the bearing easily pressed out of the pulley. The bearing is NSK 6206 VCE, 30x62 mm, 16 mmW outer race, 24 mmW inner race. I couldn't find any w/ a wider inner race, so bought a regular 6206 (16 mmW, $7). I will add a 4 mm thick washer or ring to each side. There was already a 4 mm thick split washer on the outside (not shown), so one needs a total 8 mm spacer there. The spacing is critical for the clutch to engage and float correctly.
FAQ. Why not just buy a clutch? Cost ~$150. A York w/ clutch is ~$200 rebuilt. Why not swap the Tecumseh clutch to the York, since you won't re-use that beast? It is a larger diameter so the belt changes and it may not fit. Of course, if I find another new Sanden for $25, I may replace the York on my Newport. It wasn't factory anyway.
The Newport has a York aluminum compressor, which was used on Fords for many years. The Dart has a Tecumseh cast iron compressor, with the same bolt pattern and basic size and connections. The brackets work for either. SB & BB brackets are similar but don't appear to interchange. The 1st photo shows the Dart bracket sitting on the Newport compressor. Note the crack I found.
The reason why anyone should care is that these brackets are golden, so grab if you see one. They get you 90% of the way to mounting a modern compressor. They were probably used only in early models, and probably mostly in the South and West. The 2nd photo shows a Sanden compressor sitting on the bracket. A $45 adapter can mate them (ebay). A slicker $75 adapter (ebay) also eliminates the idler tensioner. I may go cheap and make my own w/ a few threaded blocks. I got the Sanden compressor for $25 new on ebay, but usually they go for ~$100. They are smaller, lighter, and more efficient than the old ones.
The 3rd photo shows the unsightly repair I made with my $99 Harbor Freight wire welder and 30 min total welding experience. I drilled a hole at the end of the crack and drilled into the crack at intervals. A little epoxy can smooth it out for paint.
The 4th photo shows the York AC clutch apart. The bearing started squealing last week. First time I disassembled one. Remove the front bolt and the clutch comes off the shaft with slight prying since the cone is steep. After removing the circlip, I beat the shaft out of the inner bearing race (hard), while resting the pulley on a vise (max jaw opening). After removing the spiral clip, the bearing easily pressed out of the pulley. The bearing is NSK 6206 VCE, 30x62 mm, 16 mmW outer race, 24 mmW inner race. I couldn't find any w/ a wider inner race, so bought a regular 6206 (16 mmW, $7). I will add a 4 mm thick washer or ring to each side. There was already a 4 mm thick split washer on the outside (not shown), so one needs a total 8 mm spacer there. The spacing is critical for the clutch to engage and float correctly.
FAQ. Why not just buy a clutch? Cost ~$150. A York w/ clutch is ~$200 rebuilt. Why not swap the Tecumseh clutch to the York, since you won't re-use that beast? It is a larger diameter so the belt changes and it may not fit. Of course, if I find another new Sanden for $25, I may replace the York on my Newport. It wasn't factory anyway.
