Accusump question

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o1heavy

o1heavy

1974 dart sport
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Anyone using a accusump system with just a sandwich type adapter. Without relocating the oil filter .
Looks like a short will be needed tii is clear the tti headers . Just curious if this has been done without relocating the oil filter.
Thanks
 
cast iron right angle adapter.
Remove the NPT plug (can be difficult)

upload_2021-4-13_7-44-27.png


Steel AN-8 to 3/8 npt fitting IIRC.
-10 from the control valve to the accusump.
upload_2021-4-13_7-42-36.png


Here's another view from when we were building headers.
The AN hose is disconnected and the adapter fitting is capped. At that point I wasn't using the accusump.

upload_2021-4-13_7-55-52.png
 
Mattax said:
cast iron right angle adapter.
Remove the NPT plug (can be difficult)

View attachment 1715722835
O. So you just used the 90 which happens to have a port to plump the accusump .
That would work just don’t think it will clear my headers .

Steel AN-8 to 3/8 npt fitting IIRC.
-10 from the control valve to the accusump.
View attachment 1715722834

Here's another view from when we were building headers.
The AN hose is disconnected and the adapter fitting is capped. At that point I wasn't using the accusump.

View attachment 1715722836
Click to expand...
 
"So you just used the 90 which happens to have a port to plump the accusump .
That would work just don’t think it will clear my headers ."

Actually I copied someone else who had done it. :) Might have been @clair.davis had posted about this on mopax way back.
Can't speak to the headers issue. I did this after I removed the Headers by ED. I think they would have cleared but not sure. The TTI shorty looked like it would clear. I should have a photo of that without head pipe. The ones on the car now are custom built so that's of no help to you.

Definately firesleeve the AN lines. In earlier attempts where I used the junky spin on adapter plate and remote filter the heat from the exhaust would cook the AN hoses. Outside would like fine. Over time inside the rubber got brittle and would seep oil when under pressure. Lessons learned the hard way.
 
I did with the canton adapter, but stock 340 exhaust manifolds. If I can ask, why do you want to run one?
 
furrystump said:
I did with the canton adapter, but stock 340 exhaust manifolds. If I can ask, why do you want to run one?
Click to expand...
When I let off the transbrake (5000 two step)
the oil pressure will kinda float around 25lbs for
A bit , been this way for well over 200 passes figure it’s time to fix it
 
Ok, I had the non-diaphram moroso one. It had to be mounted vertically, but no moving parts or seals to wear out. I originally bought it to prelube the motor. Finally just took it off, not worth the possible leaks etc.
 
Can be, put a valve on the tank. Either electric or manual. With the car running it has 25? Lbs of pressurized oil in the bottle. Shut the valve, shut the engine off. Come back three months later open the valve. A quart of pressurized oil flows out of the bottle. Prelubed. Engine starts and puts the quart back in the bottle under the idle oil pressure.
 
It was really designed to supply about 1 quart of oil under pressure if the motor loses oil pressure. Say you empty the sump at the top end.
 
Cudafever said:
So the accusump Is a pre lube?
Click to expand...

furrystump said:
It was really designed to supply about 1 quart of oil under pressure if the motor loses oil pressure. Say you empty the sump at the top end.
Click to expand...

Ok that makes more sence.
If you left the valve open threw a run than it would give more volume if pressure dropped. Better then nothing but i feel this is more of a band-aid then a fix.
I think you need a better oil pan, or better baffles welded in it.
 
Cudafever said:
Ok that makes more sence.
If you left the valve open threw a run than it would give more volume if pressure dropped. Better then nothing but i feel this is more of a band-aid then a fix.
I think you need a better oil pan, or better baffles welded in it.
Click to expand...
I agree but lots of folks use them with success.
The hood ole rear steer of these mopars make it a lit bit of a pain to do a rear sump pan.
Im using a Kevco wide 7 quart pan .
 
I run the same Kevco pan but only 60’ in the 1.7 1.8.
 
So you just need to add a couple more quarts of oil!:poke:
TOTALLY KIDDING:D
 
Ok all kidding a side.
I'm going to be thinking (typing) out loud.
If the oil pressure is going down due to the pickup being uncovered, adding pressurized oil is not going to fix the air/bubbly oil from enter the bearings.

Although i was kidding above,..... you should put a extra Quart of oil in.........just for testing!
If the oil pressure goes up during the run......your uncovering the pick up. If not.....there is something else going on.

Needs larger oil pump pickup tube

To much oil in pan and whipping it up.

Pick-up tube is not level to the pan. Causing it to pull air as the oil head to the back of the pan and the oil lever in the sump, of the pan, gets lower during the pass.

Pick-up tube got bent some how and is not low enough in the sump of the pan.

I guess you could have a loose pick up tube........or a crack in the tube that's submerged while at idle but is uncover when you launched the car and the oil level goes down in the sump............

Just some thought running through my head tonight.
 
Electric,mechanical,data acquisition logging? How long? Could it be gauge lag?IIRC the kevco has a significant lip coming off the back of the sump edge.
 
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