After Break In Oil

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MOPARJ

MOPARJ

What can I upgrade now?
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I now have 2000 miles since i put my Comp 260 cam in my 1973 318. During those miles, i used Valvoline VR1 Racing oil 20w50, mainly because of its higher zinc. Can i back down to a different oil, probably with less zinc? Would 10w40 lower my oil pressure noticably from 20w50 when the oil is warm? I have 21 psi when hot in neutral and 45-52 psi at 1800-2000 RPM when hot with 20w50. The motor has close to 90,000 miles and 2 rockers on the right side are a little worn and make a small click when the motor is warm and the oil has thinned a little, which became a little more noticable after i did the cam, valvesprings, lifters, and timing chain. This was most likely the result of taking them off and putting them back on. Motor runs strong though. What oil would you recommend and the weight inorder to minimize the oil pressure drop when hot. If i could get it thinner for the morning startups, it would be ideal. I have been running Napa Gold Filters. Thanks.
 
MOPARJ said:
I now have 2000 miles since i put my Comp 260 cam in my 1973 318. During those miles, i used Valvoline VR1 Racing oil 20w50, mainly because of its higher zinc. Can i back down to a different oil, probably with less zinc? Would 10w40 lower my oil pressure noticably from 20w50 when the oil is warm? I have 21 psi when hot in neutral and 45-52 psi at 1800-2000 RPM when hot with 20w50. The motor has close to 90,000 miles and 2 rockers on the right side are a little worn and make a small click when the motor is warm and the oil has thinned a little, which became a little more noticable after i did the cam, valvesprings, lifters, and timing chain. This was most likely the result of taking them off and putting them back on. Motor runs strong though. What oil would you recommend and the weight inorder to minimize the oil pressure drop when hot. If i could get it thinner for the morning startups, it would be ideal. I have been running Napa Gold Filters. Thanks.
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Continue with the NAPA filters and dropping to 10w40 in the cooler weather won't hurt and may help for startup.
 
From my understanding you need to run a motor oil that has anit-wear additives for mopar flat tappet camshafts. Rottela T 15w/40 oil is what I run in mine. It is cheaper than the racing oil. Or stay with the Valvoline VR1 Racing oil. NAPA is a good filter and test results have shown Puralator to be a good one also.
 
I have been under the impression diesel oil will foam up in the pan at higher rpms...Also, heard from the same diesel mechanic that diesel oils are going to change in 2007/2008 like regular oil has.
I have been running VR1 10w-30 at a case price of 38$ from PAM. I'm sure lucas, Royal purple or amsoil sell an engine oil supplement that could be added to regular oil that would have the additives.
 
tubbedamx said:
I have been under the impression diesel oil will foam up in the pan at higher rpms...Also, heard from the same diesel mechanic that diesel oils are going to change in 2007/2008 like regular oil has.
I have been running VR1 10w-30 at a case price of 38$ from PAM. I'm sure lucas, Royal purple or amsoil sell an engine oil supplement that could be added to regular oil that would have the additives.
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If you look on the gallon which Rottela comes in it says can be used in gasoline engines as well. Your right about the change in the oil in 2007/2008 and I'm going to keep my eye on it. When the change happens I will switch to the VR1 10w-30 for my ride. It is strange how they keep yanking all the good stuff out of oil so it will protect our engines. Zinc must be a bad thing in there eyes.
 
I would stick with a good oil, or, you can add a can of Comp's (or similar) to any "normal" oil during changes. You need the additives for the cam surfaces, whether it's new or 50K miles. Or change to a full synthetic.
 
the diesels oils have already changed, they are no longer SL rated, now are SM rated.
 
You can get EOS at the GM dealer for about 8 bucks. Add it to the oil at oil change. It is a zinc additive. Don't know the PN but any GM dealer will carry it.
 
i run castrol 10w40 in my car with a wix #51085 year round and i have a flat tappet purpleshaft cam and havent had any problems yet (knock on wood)
 
Rotella T has "new" triple protection now and is still rated like it was I think. It is rated:
Shell ROTELLA® T I5W-40 with Triple ProtectionTM meets the requirements of:
API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, SM, SL; ACEA E7; Caterpillar ECF-3, ECF-1; Cummins CES 20081; Detroit Diesel*; Mack EO-O Premium Plus 07; Volvo VDS-4




http://www.shell.com/home/Framework...wgen/press_release_2006/cj-4_triple_1006.html
 
The change in the diesel oils is based on the mandatory low sulfur diesel fuel now available. Supposed to be cleaner burning and lower soot emissions. Diesels are also evolving to an OBD2 type of engine management control that will allow then to be emission tested like 96 and newer cars, no codes and fully active it will pass, no tailpipe probe. Many already have catalytic converters. As far as oils, as long as you have good film strength to keep metal to metal apart you should be ok. Diesel and synthetics have it, there are additives for regular oil to increase it's strength.
 
since it was built-Previous owneer said to change the oil in the spring to 20w/50. I this a good idea.

Also I am using the vintage MOPAR whtie oil filter.

CAr is not being raced.

Any thoughts?
 
ted_sweet said:
was SL Rated, now its SM.
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I don't see why you say it is just SM rated when you plainly can see that where I copied and pasted the oil rateings off of the Rotella web page in my post that it is still SL rated also as well as SM rated. And you can click on the link and see for yourself that it is still SL rated if you still don't believe it.
 
Sorry Mullinax95, but "Triple Protection" means reduced zinc. The oil is both SL and SM rated. To acheive the SM rating it must have a reduced zinc content.
 
mullinax95 said:
I don't see why you say it is just SM rated when you plainly can see that where I copied and pasted the oil rateings off of the Rotella web page in my post that it is still SL rated also as well as SM rated. And you can click on the link and see for yourself that it is still SL rated if you still don't believe it.
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The zinc content went down with oil rating SJ, again with SL and even more with SM. SM was a big drop from SL. Car Craft had an article that actually listed the amounts of zinc in the various types of oil. Basically there recomendation was a good quality SM oil still has enough zinc for a flat tappet cam once the engine is broken in. The reduction is motivated by emission requirements on new cars for 100k miles. Zinc is not good for catalytic convertors.

FWIW, STP is advertised to have the highest level of zinc of all oil additives.
 
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