Standard product TS17 fit great on 273 LD4B intake. Factory is on left. No pic of TS17.
Aftermarket gauges
- Thread starter Dartfreak75
- Start date
-
I run an aftermarket temp gauge in the top radiator hose. They used to be pretty common. Works really well. A lot of folks don’t like them because you lose function of the gauge if you lose coolant. I still have the stock gauge hooked up for that. If you want to run two temp gauges there isn’t much choice other than an adapter that goes under the thermostat neck that is tapped for a sender.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Throw the temp probe into the water in the radiator. (That is
known as a bourdon tube, and CANT be disconnected. )
I have used that style of temp gauge in a pan of water on the stove to check opening point of thermostats.
Stick the whole thing in a pan of boiling water on the stove, youll see.
known as a bourdon tube, and CANT be disconnected. )
I have used that style of temp gauge in a pan of water on the stove to check opening point of thermostats.
Stick the whole thing in a pan of boiling water on the stove, youll see.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
If you can hook up the summits and the factory ones, I'd recommend doing that and leaving it. The summit oil pressure and water temp are mechanical gages and probably a hell of a lot more accurate than stock. Find a mid 70s dodge ram van with V8 for a nice factoryTee adaptor for your oil pressure. Use the tubing and electric sender on the tee. I recommend getting copper tube for the mech oil pressure if you intend to keep it hooked up. I have the same set of summit gages. Plan on keeping em hooked up when I get to that point. Dual redundancy especially with the 2 most important gages. Oil pressure and water temp. If you are running a stock mopar mid 70s radiator there should be a threaded hole in the top tank for an emissions device, use that spot for your aftermarket gages water temp probe
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I don't think there is any fittings that's gonna help this. The sensor is bigger than the hole.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I have one of those thats not the problem the problem is the new gauge has a built in sensor that won't fit in my intake I have the original style sensor.
So your original 8s elec style? New one has capillary(brass/copper) tube? We went with aftermarket triple gauges mounted under ac vents. Specifically went for elec on temp gauge. Cut wire to exact length. Can just replace sensor(and we did) with elec setup.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Are you running stock copper brass radiator, I say this because theres a threaded hole in the top tank for some emissions device. The hole should be big enough for your water temp gage temperature bulb.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Again....if this is a TEMPORARY install, just to monitor temp during breakin, take the radiator cap off, and dunk the whole sensor in the water in the tank. It doesnt have to be screwed in anywhere! You dont want it to boil anyway, so the cap off is not a problem. If i starts to get too warm, hose down the radiator a little. .
Sounds like the OP is considering the option of permanently using them once the break-in is completed.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Thats a great idea I will look into that.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Id like to but it's not a necessity. At least on the water temp anyway. The oil pressure is staying either way! If I can't find a permanent solution to the water temp I will just take the oil pressure gauge out of the housing and make a single pod housing and mount it somewhere but I would like to use both. Just for a backup
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I may try that during break in if I can't find a permanent fix. thanks!
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
So to splice the Chrysler style boot on it had to be an electric gauge? That would have been nice to know when I ordered the gauge haha. Oh well
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I have one of those Ts somewhere if I can find it! I know I kept it i keep everything. Finding it is the hard part. Lol my factory cluster don't have an oil pressure gauge just a warning light so im not sure if the t would matter anyway. The one I have came out of my old dodge truck that did have a oil pressure gauge.
Just run ELECTRIC gauges man. Then you can use the factory style sender. Problem solved. Good GAWD!
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Im not buying more gauges. Haha had i know before I would have but I done bought these.
Good grief. lol
Any mechanical temp gauge I've seen have all had the permament "capillary" style tube.
With my TS17 it had a nut/stud at top(see prev pic) for elec connector
With my TS17 it had a nut/stud at top(see prev pic) for elec connector
You have the same holes as MerlinsMopar........One for the oem sender, and one for the heater hose. MM has a nice brass Tee in the heater hose outlet, and has the sending unit mounted in the top. Looks like a nice set up. I wish I would have thought of it before I bought my water neck spacer.
You might look for a spacer like this that goes on top of the block. The thermostat sits on top of it so your sensor is on the engine side.
Google thermostat spacer with sensor port.
Google thermostat spacer with sensor port.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Thanks I will look into that. I was wondering there was a way to tie it into the heater hose.
Make sure that you get the measurements if going this route. Everything I looked into had the smaller thermostat hole and seemed to designed for the GM guys. I ended up getting mine from Hughes Engines. Called and confirmed big thermostat. Part number AR438.
DrCharles
Well-Known Member
Before I got a PWM fan controller that expects the sensor in the bottom hose instead, I made one out of a piece of chrome bathroom sink pipe
-
