Alternator Rebuild Kits

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RustyRatRod

I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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First off, yes I did an internet search and didn't come up with anything definitive. I have several Chrysler alternators that I would like to rebuild. Where are yall that do this getting your parts now?
 
Let me check. I have a few to do myself. Do you have the special pulley puller?
Oh yeah. I got "all that" and if I end up needing something else, I'll get that too. lol

.....and thank you!
 
I have a local guy who rebuilds mine, Dusty's DC Electrical. He has been in business from decades and always warranties his work, so I quit doing them a long time ago...
 
ASP Wholesale

Brush and brush holder photos with p/n posted here

Depends what is needed. NOS or NORS if I can. Sometimes can find older shop with rectifiers and diodes selling on ebay. Stators and especially rotors I'd prefer the right one and the new stuff from WAI / Transpo seems to be only the high current draw '60 amp' rotors. :(
There may be other sources for new that don't retail to the public. Karl has posted there is a place around Chicago that will rewind.

I think at some point I posted photos showing a couple variations of the insulators and output studs for the squarebacks.
Here: Can you ID this alternator?
 
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Please correct me if I am wrong. I rebuild my own alternators and starters. What I find available for alternators are- front and rear bearings, brushes and their insulators and diodes. Output post insulators and condenser are not available. If other parts are needed you will need to rob another alternator. Starters are even worse.
 
Please correct me if I am wrong. I rebuild my own alternators and starters. What I find available for alternators are- front and rear bearings, brushes and their insulators and diodes. Output post insulators and condenser are not available. If other parts are needed you will need to rob another alternator. Starters are even worse.

I can't vouch to quality. I may have bought but do not recall changing them. Generally I leave parts in unless they fail. Otherwise its a clean up and reinstall. Just repairing for me, myself, and I. I'm sure volume operations don't do it this way. Even the one local guy I dealt with just replaced parts (and that didn't work well!).
 
unless they fail
Basically I do the tests outlined in the FSMs. Adjusting for the availability of multimeters and other special I don't have.
Of the top of my head I test for:
Shorts to ground in either outout or in the field circuit. For a grounded field alt that can mean removing the ground brush.
Open field circuit (no continuity) or breaks in a winding. Sometimes thats a visual observation.
Field circuit draw test (shown here)
Bad diodes. (on the bench) Sometimes there's a visual clue.
Check for loose studs, bearing issues, etc.

Oh yeah. I got "all that" and if I end up needing something else, I'll get that too. lol

.....and thank you!
Arbor press or a hydraulic.
I don't have a pressure gage so must measure distances and mark.
Real easy to press in too deep.
Also many times a rebuild is missing the grease catcher on the inside. So that lets them press the bearing in deeper than it would with that plastic cup/washer installed. I forget the proper name.
 
These guys carry a lot of parts and some very high output stuff. Good tech info scattered throughout too.

I put a high-performance CS144 in my '70 RB with one of their adapter brackets. The thing puts out 115 amps at a slow idle. and can pump out over 200 amps at a fast idle if needed.


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