alternator upgrade and gauge help

-
S

sleeper-oem

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
427
Reaction score
42
Location
Indianapolis
:help:Iam wanting to upgrade my alternator from stock which cant handle the
load (the voltage ticks while the turn signals blink lol and is moody just
died the other day) and my instrument panel to a Redline carbon and add aftermarket gauges for better reading and visibility. Its a restore so i want to freshen everything up to par since a newer stereo will be put in etc.. I have AC in it to mention. Any suggestion of the conversion and should i upgrade my ammeter to a voltmeter during Iam restoring the dash and want to get it all done at once. Will a 60amp do it or should i go with 100amp alternator? Is there a company that sells the kit brackets harness etc. Thanks my electrical knowledge is bare minimal so iam trying to learn.
Help me gurus help me:prayer:
 
You should probably fix the low voltage conditions you have now. Just throwing more current through those weak connections will cause big problems, maybe even fire.
Now about what you should have... The system was sufficient for standard equipment when new. In other words, there was enough current entering the cabin and passing through your amp gauge to operate stock equipment. Lets get it back to that condition.
If you upgrade to headlights that draw more current, add relays to supply that current and pass only the small amount of current to energize the ralys through the cabin, amp gauge, headlight switch, and original wiring. Same applies to electric fans and other high draw equipment. Upgrading the stereo head unit isn't an issue. Adding a amplifier requires a relay, alternate power source, larger wire.
Keep the large gauge wires and high current out of the cabin.
This is how newer vehicles are wired.
If you want to learn, I suggest you start by repairing what you have. Then do a headlight upgrade. Plenty of info online to help with that.
Afterwards you should have a good understanding of everything in this post and how to continue with other upgrades.
As for the alternater to supply the additional power for your upgrades.. I cant help you with that. Others here can though.
Good luck
 
Yep. The weak point in Mopar systems is that they ran the huge charging wire through the bulkhead connector TWICE, the ammeter can develop bad connections, not only just the wire connections but actually IN the ammeter, and in fact the "in harness splice" has failed in a number of cars

Read this article:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

which came from here:

http://www.madelectrical.com/

The simplified diagram shows where PART of voltage drop problems are

What they do NOT show is potential (no pun intended!!) drops in the IGNITION CIRCUIT

In the diagram down the page, find the "welded splice". (This is taped up in the under-dash harness) where it says "to ignition switch". FROM THERE it goes through the switch, out the bulkhead on the dark blue "IGN run" wire

So the voltage drop you can have in the ignition supply buss (follow the diagram) is:

From the battery -- fuse link -- bulkhead connector -- ammeter circuit -- (not shown) -- ignition switch connector -- through the switch -- back out the switch connector -- back out the bulkhead on the dark blue IGN wire

So for higher current situations, ESPECIALLY if you are adding larger stereo, electric pumps, fans, etc,

Bypass the ammeter

Convert to voltmeter

Run relays on the headlights

Run relay for the IGN system / charging system

Run relay for fuel pump

Run relay for cooling fan(s)

If you are not "restore perfect" you can run wiring "straight through" the bulkhead connector for the large conductors, at least.
 
you know 67Dart273, with as many times as you have posted your diagrams and helped people out, you should PM a mod and have all your diagrams, advice and suggestions made STICKY.:prayer: you must get tired of posting everything repeatedly LOL. just a thought. all i can ever do is post links to threads that have all your info.
 
Ok was out there tinkering with her today got it running. I want to fix it before pulling it. It does seem a weekness. I m not concerned about factory appearanceon this one more function. I am adding it all and will be pulling motor for rebuild and want to replace it all as i do bay restore. I will go voltmeter route and relays any gauge suggestions looking at Autometer. When you get older cars you just find all sorts or things folks have done that hinder its functions and make the maze alittle more complicated STEREO to be the most common hack. Have my friend helping me while he is great on factory equipmen and cnc machines cars are still new to him. But for the love of Mopar we push on. Im considering redisign of dash to make repairs a little easier these mopar dashes where made for magic gnome hands not bread stick fingered ogers like yours truly.
Thanks guys
 
This question has been posted and answered about a gazillion times. If your battery is not running down, your alternator is doing its job. Your car should run fine for over an hour just off the battery. Your problem is corroded connectors in the wiring, particularly the bulkhead connector. Just upping the alternator might fry your wires and ammeter.

My 65 Newport still has the factory round-back alternator (30A?) and I have TBI w/ electric fuel pump and AC. My battery only ran down once and I found one of the 3 alternator diodes had failed, curtailing its output. That was 10 yrs ago and I was driving it daily last year, with multiple short trips per day. I don't have monster speakers, just a 50 W stereo.
 
I'm still running the old style alternator on my 69 fish car. It works just fine and as designed. I did upgrade the regulator to a solid-state one but that's it. The point is you don't need a high amperage alternator unless you are adding lots of aftermarket equipment.
 
Thanks I understand I dont have to upgrade but I want to this is a mod not just motor but electrical. Iam replacing every wire on this car so with several moderan features thought i would upgrade alternator and do voltmeter change since it will be a daily driver. I guess a60 will do. I will just finish my hunt on the gauges.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top