Alternator

-
gipperco

gipperco

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2007
Messages
252
Reaction score
0
Location
Turner, Oregon
So I am setting up a Dart for track only and I need some help on the correct alternator. I am being told that I should get a 1 wire alternator. I know nothing about this. What year were they used so that I can get one that will work with my set up? how big 200 AMP ? Too big? I am going to be running a 318 for now and will be upgrading to a 440 in the Future. If I could get one now that would work for both applications that would be great. Any ideas ?
 
I dont know of a mopar 1 wire alternator. I dont know what the advatage would be of one anyway. Alot of gm's had 1 wire.

If its set up for drag only i would leave the alternator off and just take a battery charger and extension cord along to the track and save the money, time, and weight.
 
use a light weight alt out of a 89 90 toyota 4 runner 60 amp works great with the HD mopar alt bracket modified.

71 Demon 340 (6).JPG


Parts (128).jpg
 
i use an old school Mopar alt. on a belt . stock wiring. stock voltage regulator.

i dont have any problems.

?

A lot of people dont run an alt. at the track and have to charge the battery.


I dont. ;)
 
Do you have the wire that kills the Alt with the emergency shut off on the rear? If so how is it wired with all of the OEM Wiring. This car has no OEM Wiring at all in it.
 
Still looking for some information on a one wire alternator. I know that some of you races out there have done this. It maybe a GM Alternator that I need to get but I don't know what year range.
 
What about EL5Demons suggestion? That looks like a nice install and lightweight too. Perfect for racing!!! Geof
 
this may sound stupid, but what mods did EL5demon do to the bracket? i cant really tell in the pic of it on the engine...still trying to figure out what alt i should run on mine since the stock one is gone and i want one that pumps plenty to keep up with my stereo system as well
 
I run a summit brand 1 wire on my 408. I allways used to have trouble with my voltage regualtors going out after about 5 months. Havent had any problems since ive switched over. Im still running factory alt on my 74 duster and I have trouble with regulators on it also. After running one for a while they will start going bad then with the headlights on the battery will discharge. Im about to buy one for it next time.
 
...........Just get a factory 60 from wherever as the system is only designed to handle so much without haveing a meltdown...........kim
 
I have a 3 wire now, but will be switching to a 1 wire, alot neater under the hood, no regulator needed its inside the alternator. The main thing is how much amp draw will you have. Add up all amps you could ever use at one time and have your alternator larger than your worst case senareo. I had the issue with the kill switch not working at the track, I would pull the charging wire before the run and and hook up after to charge the battery. When I have the 1 wire alternator it will run to the positive post at the battery and the rest of the car power will break after the battery with the kill switch. I found alot of info out by Google searching "one wire alternator". I hope this helps.
 
mshred said:
this may sound stupid, but what mods did EL5demon do to the bracket? i cant really tell in the pic of it on the engine...still trying to figure out what alt i should run on mine since the stock one is gone and i want one that pumps plenty to keep up with my stereo system as well
Click to expand...
i just went to autozone got the alt, then bolted in the HD a/c bracket, bolted in the alt buy the top bolt, used a peice of construction paper on the bracket to trace the arch of the bottom hold down bolt, made a peice to follow the arch, cut and weld. you can buy the brackets already done from a couple vendors, i have a alt bracket if you want to try this at home, i like the HD bracket for this, had to also make the top bracket, i just traced the original and cut it out, but without the little offset like the original works great.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
i just went to autozone got the alt, then bolted in the HD a/c bracket, bolted in the alt buy the top bolt, used a peice of construction paper on the bracket to trace the arch of the bottom hold down bolt, made a peice to follow the arch, cut and weld. you can buy the brackets already done from a couple vendors, i have a alt bracket if you want to try this at home, i like the HD bracket for this, had to also make the top bracket, i just traced the original and cut it out, but without the little offset like the original works great.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info! i have a bracket at home already that ill try it with!
 
East Coast Auto Electric 1 wire works good. I have had it on my drag car for almost 10 years with no problems. It is a gm style, so you will need to fab up a bracket.
 
I am really confused and almost feel stupid for asking this question. I see that there are a lot of references to the HD Bracket? What is this? Is a style of bracket or a brand? Or a component bracket?
 
So, to wire up a one wire alt. you just run a wire from the alt. to the battery? What size wire? I've seen a few guys mount the alt. to the core support. Does it matter which direction an alt. turns?
 
I use a Denso 90 amp unit from a Bobcat on my car. One wire deal with fabbed brackets mounted low on the left side. You really should run an alternator, I see guys at the track all the time dragging around battery chargers and having to charge the battery after every round, looks like a PITA to me. Plus with an alternator you'll have good voltage all the time for the ignition and electronics, fuel pump, etc.

For the kill switch to work properly you'll need to run the battery wire for the alternator through a heavy duty relay, check out Painless Wirings HD relay for that.
 
gipperco said:
I am really confused and almost feel stupid for asking this question. I see that there are a lot of references to the HD Bracket? What is this? Is a style of bracket or a brand? Or a component bracket?
Click to expand...
its the alt bracket that came on A/C cars.

Parts (128).jpg
 
70net440 said:
What's the purpose for the relay? Is 10 gauge wire heavy enough?
Click to expand...

The relay will keep the alternator from back feeding and keeping the engine running. While the switch may kill it at idle at 3000 rpm it won't and that's where the track is going to test it.

I used 8 gauge wire because my batteries are in the trunk.
 
Sorry to drag this out, but does that Painless relay need a switch to make it work or is it like a diode that only lets current flow one way?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top