Aluminuim head options for a stroker?

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Valvebounce

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I need your advise team.
My dad has decided to stroke his 340. It's developed a nasty knock if the car is driven faster than 42mph. Before he fitted the engine to his car, it sat in a loft for 10-15 years. A friend his his from back in the '60s had run it in a class winning Marathon boat, back in the mid to late '80's. (Give or take)
Since the engine needs a birthday, he's decided he'll stroke it while the motor is torn down. A mate of his has a container full of boats heading from texas down to out part of the world. Since he can get the freight for nix, he's determinied to go thru with it.
Back when I was growing up, He used to lecture the hell out of me about the right way to do things/build engines correctly. (he's a real old school engineer/did his aprenticeship at a shop which also did engine reconditioning) So Now it's my turn to pay it forward. I post here not very often. BUt I've done a lot of ghosting. And read lots of what's going on.
His motor has fully reco'd "J" heads. The've got around 750 miles on them since they had new guides, and new hardened seats fitted.
I've been giving him advise based on what I've read on this site.
I was out at his place this arfternoon.
He was a bit confused. I told him that the RHS heads Brian sells are the go. He seems hellbent on going aluminuim to save weight. I did a quick search here, and showed him threads about how much better brian's heads are out of the box over the eddie's. He doesn't want to spend the earth either. I told him to ring brian, and get his slant on the costs involved.
So what are the options for Aluminum heads for a SBM?
The consencus here is that the eddies are badly made, and badly prepped. Given that this car will be mine one day, I want the old boy to get it right. Plus he lets me run it down the 1/4 on his behalf too. So while we're spending his money, I want to go as fast as the available funds allow.
 
I need your advise team.
My dad has decided to stroke his 340. It's developed a nasty knock if the car is driven faster than 42mph. Before he fitted the engine to his car, it sat in a loft for 10-15 years. A friend his his from back in the '60s had run it in a class winning Marathon boat, back in the mid to late '80's. (Give or take)
Since the engine needs a birthday, he's decided he'll stroke it while the motor is torn down. A mate of his has a container full of boats heading from texas down to out part of the world. Since he can get the freight for nix, he's determinied to go thru with it.
Back when I was growing up, He used to lecture the hell out of me about the right way to do things/build engines correctly. (he's a real old school engineer/did his aprenticeship at a shop which also did engine reconditioning) So Now it's my turn to pay it forward. I post here not very often. BUt I've done a lot of ghosting. And read lots of what's going on.
His motor has fully reco'd "J" heads. The've got around 750 miles on them since they had new guides, and new hardened seats fitted.
I've been giving him advise based on what I've read on this site.
I was out at his place this arfternoon.
He was a bit confused. I told him that the RHS heads Brian sells are the go. He seems hellbent on going aluminuim to save weight. I did a quick search here, and showed him threads about how much better brian's heads are out of the box over the eddie's. He doesn't want to spend the earth either. I told him to ring brian, and get his slant on the costs involved.
So what are the options for Aluminum heads for a SBM?
The consencus here is that the eddies are badly made, and badly prepped. Given that this car will be mine one day, I want the old boy to get it right. Plus he lets me run it down the 1/4 on his behalf too. So while we're spending his money, I want to go as fast as the available funds allow.

If you only save 40-50lbs. off the front end, it won't be as noticable as you think. If it were a 9sec. car then yes it would be viable, but otherwise it's not huge unless you find more weight to come out so your total weight loss is over 100lbs.
There's nothing wrong with Eddy heads, they are a great head for the money and can be made to make very good power.

What is your budget for the new heads?
 
Around $1500.
He got RHS mixed up with RPM. He had it in his head that the heads brian sells were Aluminum. I set him straight. Given that a pair of RHS's from IMM, are around the same dollars as a pair of RPMs from summit, and he doesn't want to shag about tweaking a new set of heads, The RHS would have to win hands down. What would it cost to make a new pair of RPM's out perform a pair of OOTB RHS's?
I assume the eddies come with 3/8 valve stems? I'm put off the edelbrock heads by what people here have written about what theirs were like OOTB. Pretty horrible casting, and even sand still coming out of them.
The heads Brian sells must have a good rep for a reason.
 
Around $1500.
He got RHS mixed up with RPM. He had it in his head that the heads brian sells were Aluminum. I set him straight. Given that a pair of RHS's from IMM, are around the same dollars as a pair of RPMs from summit, and he doesn't want to shag about tweaking a new set of heads, The RHS would have to win hands down. What would it cost to make a new pair of RPM's out perform a pair of OOTB RHS's?
I assume the eddies come with 3/8 valve stems? I'm put off the edelbrock heads by what people here have written about what theirs were like OOTB. Pretty horrible casting, and even sand still coming out of them.
The heads Brian sells must have a good rep for a reason.

Honestly, for the rpm heads to make as much power as our RHS heads, it'll take about 2250.00 for port work and valve job. The rpm heads have 11/32 valves, while our RHS heads have 5/16.
Our RHS heads do have a good reputation and for good reason!!
Brian
 
I have a stroked 360 magnum block. I have Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads. They were ported and polished and gasket matched. I have had no issues what so ever. I always thought my next car was going to be a stroked 340. They rev so well and take rpm's so well. Have fun and good luck!
 
No matter what heads you buy, it's all in the prep work done on them. Unless you're building an 8 second "ground pounder," you won't need "big buck" heads. The J heads you have will work just fine with a small block stroker. This is just my opinion.
 
i am just going on what i am told the alims outflo the j buy 10% peice to peice untouched am building a stroker with 9.5 to 1 and was told the same if not headed for the track dont worrie about it if i'm going to go 12;1 then go indy and port or go big and go brodex need to know myself may a real mopar head please speak now
 
Honestly, for the rpm heads to make as much power as our RHS heads, it'll take about 2250.00 for port work and valve job. The rpm heads have 11/32 valves, while our RHS heads have 5/16.
Our RHS heads do have a good reputation and for good reason!!
Brian

Is that Including the heads? Or on top of?
 
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