Ammeter to voltmeter conversion

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70Duster340

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I'm sure this has been discussed here before, but nothing shows up in a search. I would like to convert (or should I say replace) my ammeter in my rallye dash with a voltmeter. I have seen it done on other Mopars, but none of those were A bodies. I can remember an article somewhere that explains it in detail, including the make and model number of the voltmeter needed. I can't locate that article, either. Can anyone here help?

Thanks!
 
I'm sure this has been discussed here before, but nothing shows up in a search. I would like to convert (or should I say replace) my ammeter in my rallye dash with a voltmeter. I have seen it done on other Mopars, but none of those were A bodies. I can remember an article somewhere that explains it in detail, including the make and model number of the voltmeter needed. I can't locate that article, either. Can anyone here help?

Thanks!

This is a very worthwhile conversion.

I used a SunPro CP8215 Voltmeter . Readily available on Amazon. I took the face plate off the factory guage and installed it on the Sunpro unit. Fit with very little mods. Wiring posts lined up perfectly.

Some things you need to to do:

1. Connect the two leads of the ammeter together. I cut the ends off , spliced and soldered them together then used a heavy heatshrink to insulate them. You cannot attach the ammeter leads to the new gauge.

2. Get some testors Orange model paint and paint the pointer as it is red in the sunpro unit.

3. Insulate the wiring posts from the sunpro gauge as they can short out against the metal housing of the gauge cluster.(Ask me how I know . LOL !! )

4. Connect the negative terminal on the gauge to the cluster housing , connect the positive end to a switched 12 volt source at the fuse box. I found an unused terminal for the radio.

The pointer will be pretty close to half way when the voltage is at 13 volts according to my Digital Fluke Meter.

My conversion is working perfectly after 3 1/2 years.

Hopefully I didn't forget anything but I'm sure other members who did this will chime in.
 
On the rally panel circuit board,,, The pin at about 9 o'clock position is switched 12 volts that feeds the voltage limiter. You can tap this wire behind the connector to power the volts gauge. I used the wire clipped off of a noise suppression capacitor. I used a dremel tool to hog out that terminal a tad so it better fit the metric stud on the sunpro volts gauge. (A ring terminal would work there.)
The ground wire first goes to the phillips head screw at bottom of center pod. 2 wires in this ring terminal. The second wire is about 4 inches long with male spade terminal. Addition length of wire with mating female spade terminal goes to a screw under the dash somewhere with another ring terminal.
My result is everything will unplug if/when I need to pull the panel again. Entire instrument panel is better grounded.
I probably have pointed this out before but again, the round screen of the sunpro gauge is well captured in that gauge can. The little plastic screw ears are absolute minimal, easily broken but that screen couldn't move.
Your larger triangular screen is floating in the housing. I couldn't expect those ears to support this screen for many years to come. Some scarp plastic and 2 part epoxy created some added support.

rally panel circuit board.jpg
 
So, the OEM ammeter gauge face is used? I take it there is no way to utilize the numbered faceplate of the voltmeter?

Didn't you (Redfish) have an overlay made to fit a rallye dash voltmeter, with numbers?
 
Some whittle the little round screen to lay on top of the OEM screen. Even more weight on those tiny screw ears. I had custom decals made. Only way to get one was have a entire sheet printed at 9 dollars each. I fingered out how to transplant the OEM needle too.
 
Nothing like your gauge cluster but i feel the need to show it, i used the sunpro gauge mentioned with a decal overlay.
Far right.

20210204_182212.jpg
 
Some whittle the little round screen to lay on top of the OEM screen. Even more weight on those tiny screw ears. I had custom decals made. Only way to get one was have a entire sheet printed at 9 dollars each. I fingered out how to transplant the OEM needle too.
So, give it up, buddy! How did you transplant the OEM needle?
 
It's just a sticker, so i suppose it was.
Think it was about $30Aud for the first one and $3 for everyone after that i think. Memories a bit hazy it was long ago.
 
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