Another 8 3/4 question

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rusty

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Does any one have a empty a-body housing to measure? I got one at a swap that is supposed to be cut to a-body length.I get 53 7/8 is that right? I also got a b-body rear end for the chunk and brakes.Thanks,Todd
 
Another member recently posted this in another thread, hope this helps

Housing widths, flange to flange
A BODY
'66-'72= 52 5/8"
B BODY
'62-'63= 53 1/4" (And '64 Max Wedge)
'64 = 55 5/8" (Exc. Max Wedge)
'65-'67= 54 1/4"
'68-'70= 54 15/16"
'71-'74= 57 7/8"
'71-'73 wagon= 59 7/16"
C BODY
'65-'69= 56 3/4"
'70-'71= 57 7/8" (Chrysler & Fury)
'70-'74= 59 7/16" (and '69 wagon)
IMPERIAL
'65-'66= 57"
'67-'69= 57 3/8"
'70-'71= 54 3/4"
'72-'73= 59 5/8"
E BODY
'70-'74= 56 31/64"
A100
'65-'70= 56 3/4" D100
'65-'71= 58 5/16"
'72-'74= 59 7/16"
 
I don't know where I got that number from,looked at it this morning when I got home from work this morning and I got 52 7/16 hows that? Close enough?
 
Some people cut them a little shorter than stock, so when they add big bolt shafts that use the B/E body brakes, they end up closer to the normal full rear-end width of the stock A Body axle with its narrower brakes.
 
Some people cut them a little shorter than stock, so when they add big bolt shafts that use the B/E body brakes, they end up closer to the normal full rear-end width of the stock A Body axle with its narrower brakes.

So would I use stock lenght axles or the a-body w/b-body brake longer axles?
 
The people that I've know that did this needed to use custom length axles. We switched to big bolt pattern and B Body brakes.
 
I found one site that used 51.4" flange to flange . 52 5/8 was the most common # though.
I just dropped my axles off at the driveline shop today and would prefer to have the housing cut only once...lol....

Now I understand the whole big brakes vs A-body brakes . it's the width of the shoe that is the difference . right ....? That never occurred to me before .
 
Te shoe is wider, yes, but the offset is different, too. The distance between the bearing and the wheel flange is different on the small bolt pattern axles than it is for the big bolt axles. Some people make big bolt pattern axles with the A Body offset so that they can reuse the redrilled A Body brakes, but I'd rather just swap to the B/E stuff, myself. It's cheaper than having the drilling done, and still being confined to the more expensive small bolt drums in the future.
 
I'll be running Moser's so I guess I'll be looking for some 10x2's or 11x3's . Will I have to worry about the proportioning at all ?
 
I found one site that used 51.4" flange to flange . 52 5/8 was the most common # though.
I just dropped my axles off at the driveline shop today and would prefer to have the housing cut only once...lol....

Now I understand the whole big brakes vs A-body brakes . it's the width of the shoe that is the difference . right ....? That never occurred to me before .

51.4" is wrong. That website needs to take it down because it's caused so much confusion over the yrs. 52-5/8" is the correct stock width.

I'll be running Moser's so I guess I'll be looking for some 10x2's or 11x3's . Will I have to worry about the proportioning at all ?

Like Tom, I haven't had a problem using the stock valve either. The stock valve is not really a proportioning valve. A proportioning valve limits how much fluid is sent to the rear brakes. The stock valve on our A-bodies is just a safety valve. It only senses when a brake line blows (either front or rear) and the valve inside moves to close off the blown side and apply the fluid to the good side. Some factory A-body valves also have a residual pressure valve that gives the brakes a firmer pedal.

I have a set of backing plates I took off a B-body a while back. PM me if you are interested. Their bare backing plates but they do have the parking brake hardware so all you need is to rebuild the brakes, which you should do on any set of brakes you put on your car.
 
Working from my android. Tried to pm you but can't. Pm m or call 208.703, 7073
These phones are a pain!
 
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