Another flywheel question

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canadian duster

canadian duster

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Looking for real world advice on flywheel selection. I've been trying to decide on a flywheel for quite sometime. Had been recommended luk lfw375 but want to ensure I'm not building a bomb. I hear stories of needing to be a aluminum or big brand billet steel.

What are the real world limits for a high hp stroker that will never see the track? Just not sure what is really required.
 
What's the car weigh. How much gear? I can't imagine using a steel flywheel. There is no reason to beat on the car like that unless it's heavy, has no gear and has a very short stoke.
 
What kind of power are you making and do you see the strip a lot?
 
Hummmmm, sorry I cannot answer this. You be run a manual most of my life. Best flywheel hp level I had no nfront of the 4spd was 475hp. The stock flywheel was used. For safety reasons, a Lakewood safety bell housing was used since it would see high rpm launches and shift points.
M
 
rumblefish360 said:
Why?
Click to expand...


He doesn't need all that rotational inertia.

Way back in the day, guys were running 60 pound flywheels. If you like to google search, look up video of old Modified Eliminator stuff (when the NHRA killed Modified they started their death spiral) and watch them do a burn out and dry hop. Listen to how long it takes them to wind up. And to slow down.

Swinging all that mass around with the strokes that guys are using today just beats the hell out of everything. I used the lightest FW I could find. And I don't run near a 4 inch stroke.

I suppose if you would find a 20 pound steel wheel that would be ok. I run an 11 pound wheel. I'd hate to have to tune the car with a 20 pound wheel.
 
I like YRs thinking,
and banging gears with an aluminum FW,and 4.30s is a hoot.
But you have 3.54s:
With a starter gear of just 3.54x2.66=9.44 and say 28s, your effective gear is just 8.09 corrected to a 12" radius. IDK about your blown 408, but my little NA 367 makes a lotta low rpm torque, with over 185psi cylinder pressure, and it did not like that meager TM;(edit; TM=TorqueMultiplication) even with a heavy steel flywheel.
So I increased my starter to 9.75 corrected, which is 20% more TM. Now it's almost a dump it and go deal. Blip the throttle and almost dump it, letting the flywheel do the work.( EDIT; you can increase TM either with rear gear or with trans gear, the engine won't know the difference in first gear. I did it with a 3.09 low, because I wanted to keep the 3.55s in the back, for hiway cruising. But you could just as well keep the 2.66 low of the standard A833, and install a bigger number rear gear.This will of course increase your cruise rpm. Another thing a bigger rear gear will do, is bring your shift mphs down, at the same shift rpm. This condenses your run and increases your average power over distance, which for a small engine is kindof important. For a blown 408 Ima thinking not so much,lol.)
With street tires, you will never need to rev that stroker up, to launch, cuz there's just no traction, not even with just 400hp, not even with 325/50-15 BFG-DRs. (EDIT;What I mean is, for me at least, the 367 just spins at drop of a hat with the 9.75 corrected TM, with those tires listed. And it will even initiate a spin to well past 40 mph in second gear. And that is just a NA367 with a 230* cam and Eddies.)
So, IMO, you might as well not sound like a Mustang, and just keep the heavier FW, for the Mopar-is-king-of-grunt takeoffs.
Blip,dump,chirp, and gone.
IDK how heavy my FW is. It's out of an old 340 car, rebalanced for my 360. I'd guess probably close to 30#.
Besides, if you don't like it it only takes 17 minutes to take the trans down, and that includes taking the GVOD down first, and the dual 3" TTI system from the collectors to the muffs. And unless you run a scattershield....maybe 10 more to see the FW on the floor.
But I know you'll get to really like that 30 pounder on the street.
Blip,dump,chirp, and gone.
Just my opinion.
EDIT; but I get YRs comment on the 4 inch crank, and if I had one,and a blower, I'd be tempted to try a lighter FW. But Like I said, I know nothing about driving a blower engine.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
I like YRs thinking,
and banging gears with an aluminum FW,and 4.30s is a hoot.
But you have 3.54s:
With a starter gear of just 3.54x2.66=9.44 and say 28s, your effective gear is just 8.09 corrected to a 12" radius. IDK about your blown 408, but my little NA 367 makes a lotta low rpm torque, with over 185psi cylinder pressure, and it did not like that meager TM, even with a heavy steel flywheel.
So I increased my starter to 9.75 corrected, which is 20% more TM. Now it's almost a dump it and go deal. Blip the throttle and almost dump it, letting the flywheel do the work.
With street tires, you will never need to rev that stroker up, to launch, cuz there's just no traction, not even with just 400hp, not even with 325/50-15 BFG-DRs.
So, IMO, you might as well not sound like a Mustang, and just keep the heavier FW, for the Mopar-is-king-of-grunt takeoffs.
Blip,dump,chirp, and gone.
IDK how heavy my FW is. It's out of an old 340 car, rebalanced for my 360. I'd guess probably close to 30#.
Besides, if you don't like it it only takes 17 minutes to take the trans down, and that's taking the GVOD down first, and the dual 3" TTi system from the collectors to the muffs. And unless you run a scattershield....maybe 10 more to see the FW on the floor.
But I know you'll get to really like that 30 pounder on the street.
Blip,dump,chirp, and gone.
Just my opinion
Click to expand...
What is TM?
Can you spell it?
 
So many acronyms.
So many.

So many generalizations.
So many.
 
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