ANOTHER question..
- Thread starter nodemon
- Start date
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Not really,
You can rotate the engine by hand and check for interference.
You can crank the starter same.
But that's about it.
There are pressure tests you could do to watch clutches clamp and bands tighten.
You can rotate the engine by hand and check for interference.
You can crank the starter same.
But that's about it.
There are pressure tests you could do to watch clutches clamp and bands tighten.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Automatic?
No.
Manual?
same as on the bench except for adjusting the Clutch departure.
No.
Manual?
same as on the bench except for adjusting the Clutch departure.
It's a manual... bench tested ok, as far as going through the gears.. Not sure what clutch departure is.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 26,027
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You cannot check departure until the fork is in, and everything with it, and the Freeplay adjusted. Departure is just a fancy word for how far the Pressure plate comes off the disc, when you push the pedal towards the floor.
Not enough and it's a beotch to put into reverse, with the engine running.
Too much can damage a diaphragm PP., but mostly it's just a waste of motion and energy.
You only need just enough so that the disc doesn't drag on anything (clutch or PP), when the pedal goes down. If it creeps in gear with the pedal down, at a stoplight, you need more; whether you get it by adjustment or just by pushing deeper, is no never mind.
Generally, .080, is enough.
Generally, 1inch of freeplay is enough.
Generally, adequate departure is achieved long before the pedal hits the floor. Mine is adequate before half-way. But-um, I don't run much freeplay; just barely enough.
The TO bearing must NOT spin continuously, just after the freeplay is eliminated, else it will have a short service life.
If you set it up right, it is possible to get 100,000miles out of a clutch and a TO bearing.
Or if you drive like me, you can wear out a disc every summer. But it's not my fault; the engine just has too much power for a factory 340 disc, it either spits the springs out, or it cracks the hub out, or shreds the organic linings off, or any two of those. But otherwise, I love that organic peach.
Not enough and it's a beotch to put into reverse, with the engine running.
Too much can damage a diaphragm PP., but mostly it's just a waste of motion and energy.
You only need just enough so that the disc doesn't drag on anything (clutch or PP), when the pedal goes down. If it creeps in gear with the pedal down, at a stoplight, you need more; whether you get it by adjustment or just by pushing deeper, is no never mind.
Generally, .080, is enough.
Generally, 1inch of freeplay is enough.
Generally, adequate departure is achieved long before the pedal hits the floor. Mine is adequate before half-way. But-um, I don't run much freeplay; just barely enough.
The TO bearing must NOT spin continuously, just after the freeplay is eliminated, else it will have a short service life.
If you set it up right, it is possible to get 100,000miles out of a clutch and a TO bearing.
Or if you drive like me, you can wear out a disc every summer. But it's not my fault; the engine just has too much power for a factory 340 disc, it either spits the springs out, or it cracks the hub out, or shreds the organic linings off, or any two of those. But otherwise, I love that organic peach.
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