Anti roll bar?

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9secRR

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How many of you guys run an anti roll bar?

I’m stepping up in power with the W8 engine and wondering if I should install one. Car launches pretty good with a 1.29 60’ and I do get some body roll already with the 355”.

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My car did similar body roll years back. I added the anti roll bar to my car it made a world of difference on how much smoother and more consistent my car launched. Mine is a 4 link rear suspension.

We just put an anti roll on a roadrunner over the winter that has ladder bar, housing floater, and Calvert split mono leaf. It also made a huge difference on his car. Car is much smoother, has less traction issues and is much more consistent on the starting line.
 
My car did similar body roll years back. I added the anti roll bar to my car it made a world of difference on how much smoother and more consistent my car launched. Mine is a 4 link rear suspension.

We just put an anti roll on a roadrunner over the winter that has ladder bar, housing floater, and Calvert split mono leaf. It also made a huge difference on his car. Car is much smoother, has less traction issues and is much more consistent on the starting line.
I have been hearing it’s a smoother ride and more consistent. The guys around here all saying I should put one and get it over with.
 
I have been hearing it’s a smoother ride and more consistent. The guys around here all saying I should put one and get it over with.

Based on your photos, I would 100% agree with them. Yes lots get away without running one, I was one of them to get away with it for years. But after I put it on, it was a game changer.
 
i think it would help the launch and settle the car down.
Based on your photos, I would 100% agree with them. Yes lots get away without running one, I was one of them to get away with it for years. But after I put it on, it was a game changer.

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Do those work with leaf springs and sliders?
 
Do those work with leaf springs and sliders?

Yes they do. You’re running a caltrac setup on your car correct? Just need to make sure if you would do it, you would want to get the longer control arms so as the rear end separates, the adjuster doesn’t get locked into place with the control arm. With a caltrac and the amount of separation there is, that’s something you could run into.

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Yes they do. You’re running a caltrac setup on your car correct? Just need to make sure if you would do it, you would want to get the longer control arms so as the rear end separates, the adjuster doesn’t get locked into place with the control arm. With a caltrac and the amount of separation there is, that’s something you could run into.

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Okay cool, I'll have to look into those then. Yes caltrac springs and sliders.
Thanks RJ
 
Cars that have thier instant center close to the neutral line can suffer severe body roll at launch. I know. It happened to me years ago. And that includes ladderbars, which i run. What happens is at the hit engine/driveline torque trys to roll the body of the car clockwise. The closer to the neutral line your instant center is, this small amount of roll rotation increases the working neutral line on one side and decreases it on the other, starting an action/ reaction which can pull the left front of the car towards the sky. In my case this violence got to the point that my dart would literally rip the left rear off the track on launch when that side ran out of shock travel. This was observed be a very competent fellow racer. So, a moderate to low power car can get by with very good rear shocks and running the front ladderbar mount high, or they risk getting close to the problem i had, and preload can only bandaid so much. As power and SLR increase, so does the need for an anti roll.
 
That bar serves 3 purposes. The down bars through the package tray tie in from the top. It has the upper shock mounts and the anti roll bar are attached to it.
 
That bar serves 3 purposes. The down bars through the package tray tie in from the top. It has the upper shock mounts and the anti roll bar are attached to it.
I installed a cross bar similar to that on my dart thinking just for shock mounts, I maybe able to do the same thing you did too.
 
I have heard many really smart people say adding one was one of the best things they have done to their cars. From altered wheel based nose 3’ in the air to a good number of FAST cars. I don’t currently have one in my car, but will, just working on how to package it/hide it and deciding on material. Steel or CF. Steel is easier to package, but heavy. CF is big, but light. Trying to wrap my head around how must twisting force it would see. The use driveshaft diameter CF tubes!
 
My ‘60s are no where near as fast as you guys but I built my own tri 4 link and had bad body roll until I installed the ARB. Now it launches straight and is really stable down the track.
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Yes they do. You’re running a caltrac setup on your car correct? Just need to make sure if you would do it, you would want to get the longer control arms so as the rear end separates, the adjuster doesn’t get locked into place with the control arm. With a caltrac and the amount of separation there is, that’s something you could run into.

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I noticed something very helpful in your photo here, looks to me like the rocker panel was cut to make more room for tire clearance.
If not I just figured out how I'm going to get more tire clearance.
Lol, Thanks RJ.
 
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