Any body useing a stroked gen 3 hemi engine in there race car?

[mopar65]

Well looks like I am for sure going to be building a gen3 hemi engine for my 91 dakota sport race truck now. Lol I found a guy that has a machined early 5.7 hemi block and a 397 k1 stroker kit with wisco forged pistions that comes with it. He was asking $3000 and I offered him $2500 thinking he would say no. Lol well to my surprise he said yes. Lol the only bummer is it will only be 11.1 compression with my eagle heads. I have a brand new set of stroker icon 13.5-14.1 pistons but they are for i think a 4.050 stroke crank and I think the kit I am buying has a 4.080 stroke crank. Oh well at least I can run the 397 on 93 pump gas now.lol the intake will be a Ritter with a 800 DP carb for now. Not sure on size of cam yet. But sorry for the long post. Was just interested in hearing other engine combos and how they run at the track. Thanks mopar65

 

[408 swinger]

That is gonna haul ***! I've read of a few combos like that are low 10's to high 9's.

 

[mopar65]

That is gonna haul ***! I've read of a few combos like that are low 10's to high 9's.

Thats what I am shooting for. My friend has 14.1 6.1 stroked to a 426 with ported apache heads. He has it in a 71 plymouth duster. His car has ran 9.58 at 141 so far

 

[justinp61]

I'd love to build one, but I'm too deep in small blocks.

 

[mopar65]

I'd love to build one, but I'm too deep in small blocks.

I can understand that

 

[Garrett Ellison]

I’d love to build one too, but I’m too deep into destitution! But my friend on the other hand… Putting together an 8.50 chassis ‘89 Dakota with a 6.1 taken to 7.0. 4.08X4.08. It’s about 10.5:1 but built for boost, which will probably be after running this season NA to dial everything in.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Engine, and he scored a used a CRT “leave on first or second from trans brake” 727 with a PTC 9.5 inch converter that’s built for power adder. It came from a similar 5.7 Stroker ‘74 duster with nearly 500 hp of nitrous.
The picture of the truck was with the p.o. running a 505 inch 440 and a power glide.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Going to run a 2013 up Holley terminator X max system (more boost oriented because of hellcat) and e-85 with what’s there to start with. It takes some Frankensteining to do but it’s still less expensive than a Dominator EFI controller and hardware. Truck has 4.56 gear Moser 8-3/4 and 28.50 non W tires. No prep/grudge match/outlaw build. 14 point chassis with four link and coil overs with an anti roll bar. It ran low 9s with the big block. We’re expecting to be quicker than that with the lighter Hemi and other weight reduction. It’s an Inertia Motorsports build that was in a Jeep SRT8. It put 465 or so hp down to all four tires on a chassis dyno. Inertia told him it was good for 600 at the crank N/A.

 

[mopar65]

Wow looks like your friends going to have one killer dakota when he is done. My other friend had a 6.1 stroked to a 426 like my friend with the 71 duster. He too ran 9.60 at 140 in the 1/4. The 426 was in his 87 dodge dakota. He sold the dakota and put the 426 in a backed half 73 duster and put it on alcohol. I think he is runing 9 flat or a high 8 second 1/4 mile pass now.

 

[mopar65]

Wow looks like your friends going to have one killer dakota when he is done. My other friend had a 6.1 stroked to a 426 like my friend with the 71 duster. He too ran 9.60 at 140 in the 1/4. The 426 was in his 87 dodge dakota. He sold the dakota and put the 426 in a backed half 73 duster and put it on alcohol. I think he is runing 9 flat or a high 8 second 1/4 mile pass now.

My friends 71 duster and 87 Dodge dakota

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Both of those are great looking vehicles! That’s a good deal on the Dakota roller.

 

[mopar65]

Both of those are great looking vehicles! That’s a good deal on the Dakota roller.

Sorry I didn't realize it was a picture of his old for sell add. He sold it i think 2 years ago and I think the truck went to some wear in Michigan

 

[Garrett Ellison]

I like your build details so far. Hold onto your pistons, your only looking at going .015 out of the hole, which is okay if you have adequate material above the top ring and the ring is below deck. There are plenty of thick (although expensive!) head gaskets to maintain piston to head clearance. That gives you the option of switching to methanol, which works well with a Gen III. I’m guessing you’re running an MSD Hemi 6 and utilizing the knock sensors, so 15:1 with methanol can be fairly manageable.

 

[mopar65]

I like your build details so far. Hold onto your pistons, your only looking at going .015 out of the hole, which is okay if you have adequate material above the top ring and the ring is below deck. There are plenty of thick (although expensive!) head gaskets to maintain piston to head clearance. That gives you the option of switching to methanol, which works well with a Gen III. I’m guessing you’re running an MSD Hemi 6 and utilizing the knock sensors, so 15:1 with methanol can be fairly manageable.

I am going to buy the msd6 just haven't yet. My plan was to run the 14.1 hemi on E85. Thats what my friend with the yellow duster uses. I want to switch to MPFI with holleys High ram intake and there computer system. But that will have to be next year. I still have to buy a lot more parts just to get the engine in my dakota

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Oh Yeah! When it comes to maximum power, they make everything that isn't a Gen2 Hemi obsolete. They're are plenty of boosted 5.7 builds that make in excess of 1000 hp with ARP studs along with aftermarket rods and pistons. But the struggle is very real. As good as they are, they're still so different from everything else that adapting them to an older vehicle is usually a major undertaking and expense.

 

[mopar65]

Oh Yeah! The struggle is Very Real! When it comes to maximum power, they make everything that isn't a Gen2 Hemi obsolete. They're are plenty of boosted 5.7 builds that make in excess of 1000 hp with ARP studs along with aftermarket rods and pistons. But the struggle is very real. As good as they are, they're still so different from everything else that adapting them to an older vehicle is usually a major undertaking and expense.

I hear ya. I will be starting over from scratch.lol my biggest money $$ part i think is going to be the headers. As far as I know nobody makes gen3 race headers for a gen1 Dakota. Oh well its only money right. Lol but a twin turbo gen3 hemi woukd be awesome. Its on my bucket list. Before I got kicked off face book. There was a red 87 dakota with a pretty much stock early 5.7 hemi with twin turbos. The second time around I think he made over 900 HP before it broke a rod..

 

[Garrett Ellison]

I meant to tell you the long tube headers in the pictures are from a Jeep. They fit with a few dings by lifting the cab about 7/8 inch with e bay aluminum stock biscuits and adding poly cab mounts. He is fortunate enough that the truck was originally a 4 cylinder 5 speed with manual steering. You cannot find new manual racks anywhere. The other interference point is the reinforcement sections that stick out on the inside of the frame next to the transmission. Those really could stand to be cut and replaced with a piece of flat steel, but putting a ratchet strap around the collectors and pulling them together allows them to slide in. The only starter I've heard that actually works like it's supposed to without problems with a Gen3 and a 727 is the Tilton/ATI unit. So far nothing has been inexpensive playing at this level. Oddly enough, everything worked flawlessly around the starter except, of all things, the engine oil dipstick tube, which had to be mercilessly modified in order to fit with it and the headers.
ATI 915566: Tilton Starter 5.7/6.1/6.4L Hemi with Torqueflite 727 - JEGS High Performance

 

[mopar65]

I meant to tell you the long tube headers in the pictures are from a Jeep. They fit with a few dings by lifting the cab about 7/8 inch with e bay aluminum stock biscuits and adding poly cab mounts. He is fortunate enough that the truck was originally a 4 cylinder 5 speed with manual steering. You cannot find new manual racks anywhere. The other interference point is the reinforcement sections that stick out on the inside of the frame next to the transmission. Those really could stand to be cut and replaced with a piece of flat steel, but putting a ratchet strap around the collectors and pulling them together allows them to slide in. The only starter I've heard that actually works like it's supposed to without problems with a Gen3 and a 727 is the Tilton/ATI unit. So far nothing has been inexpensive playing at this level. Oddly enough, everything worked flawlessly around the starter except, of all things, the engine oil dipstick tube, which had to be mercilessly modified in order to fit with it and the headers.
ATI 915566: Tilton Starter 5.7/6.1/6.4L Hemi with Torqueflite 727 - JEGS High Performance

Cool I didn't know about the jeep headers. I was wondering if maybe a set for a chrysler 300 SRT8. I will have to look into the starter.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Like I say, they’re tight, but we can install the engine with them bolted to it. That’s a huge advantage with the bolt flange bolt pattern on them in the confines of the tin can on wheels.

 

[RockinRobin]

I've been racing one since 2014. 13:1 compression 3.750 on the stroke I think, comes out to 414. Have to clearance the block a little for the rods to clear, and piston #8 to clear the crank reluctor wheel. Also, weld that wheel to the crank. Mine came loose and timing/E.T. was inconsistent as hell until I pulled the pan off and the bolts to the wheel had come loose! MSD 6 Hemi Ignition is the cheapest way to fire it up. I suggest using a motor plate. aeicnc.com will make you one that you can run a big block chevy electric water pump on, a lot cheaper than meziere! TTI headers fit around the torsion bars if you're still using them. Also if you decide to use a double roller timing set, be sure to check the clearance between the timing wheel and the inside of the front cover.
Mine runs on 110 gas and does 10.0 in the 1/4, 6.4 in the 1/8 with a 727 torqueflite.
Pm me if you want more details.

 

[mopar65]

I've been racing one since 2014. 13:1 compression 3.750 on the stroke I think, comes out to 414. Have to clearance the block a little for the rods to clear, and piston #8 to clear the crank reluctor wheel. Also, weld that wheel to the crank. Mine came loose and timing/E.T. was inconsistent as hell until I pulled the pan off and the bolts to the wheel had come loose! MSD 6 Hemi Ignition is the cheapest way to fire it up. I suggest using a motor plate. aeicnc.com will make you one that you can run a big block chevy electric water pump on, a lot cheaper than meziere! TTI headers fit around the torsion bars if you're still using them. Also if you decide to use a double roller timing set, be sure to check the clearance between the timing wheel and the inside of the front cover.
Mine runs on 110 gas and does 10.0 in the 1/4, 6.4 in the 1/8 with a 727 torqueflite.
Pm me if you want more details.

Cool thanks. I am sure I will have lots and lots of questions. The engine will be going into my 91/96 dakota race truck. So no torsion bars for me.

 

[mopar65]

Pic of my 91/96 dakota sport race truck

 

[MOPARMAGA]

I could afford to build one just about the time they're obsolete

 

[mopar65]

I could afford to build one just about the time they're obsolete

Thats whats going to happen to me.

 

[mopar65]

I meant to tell you the long tube headers in the pictures are from a Jeep. They fit with a few dings by lifting the cab about 7/8 inch with e bay aluminum stock biscuits and adding poly cab mounts. He is fortunate enough that the truck was originally a 4 cylinder 5 speed with manual steering. You cannot find new manual racks anywhere. The other interference point is the reinforcement sections that stick out on the inside of the frame next to the transmission. Those really could stand to be cut and replaced with a piece of flat steel, but putting a ratchet strap around the collectors and pulling them together allows them to slide in. The only starter I've heard that actually works like it's supposed to without problems with a Gen3 and a 727 is the Tilton/ATI unit. So far nothing has been inexpensive playing at this level. Oddly enough, everything worked flawlessly around the starter except, of all things, the engine oil dipstick tube, which had to be mercilessly modified in order to fit with it and the headers.
ATI 915566: Tilton Starter 5.7/6.1/6.4L Hemi with Torqueflite 727 - JEGS High Performance

Well I ended up buy a built 6.1 stroked to a 420. Makes around 650-700 hp. Going to put it in my dakota. I will be useing the 904 that I have been useing with my 360 magnum. I finally found a guy selling some stainless works long tube headers. They came off his 5.7 jeep grand Cherokee . But I don't remember what year his was. I did replace all my body mounts with polyurethane ones. Not sure I am understanding you, but you said you had to run 7/8 spacers on top of the mounts to get the headers to clear? Got any pics of your friends dakota with the headers mounted and showing the trouble spots you was talking about? My engine came with the drag pack oil pan. It is still rear sump but the sump is longer than the holley swap pan I bought. So looks like I might have to cut a big notch in the front cross frame to get it to fit.