Anybody use clutch tamer

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Newbomb Turk said:
That sucks. And blows. I can do more in a 5 minute call than I can in an email or some form.

I’ll pass on that.
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1000000000% agree, I detest online help. Get me someone with some skin in the game, on the phone.
 
The face plates are probably the easiest on parts and also most durable.

Especially if you get 9310 speed gears : D
 
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Clutch came in. Excited to get it in. Looks like I’ll have to trim the bolt stands a little bit for bell housing clearance
 
That is one sweet looking setup. Would you mind letting us know what a round number cost is on that complete clutch setup is? Thank You
 
Jeremiah (jd) said:
Crank the base up to 650 and put 1g on the levers. I would set the tamer at 1 turns from quickest rebound. No hero runs for at least 3 hits. If it sounds ugly GTHO of the go pedal : D
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I have to figure out the lingo with talking to people on adjustments. The base is set to 550 at zero turns. So add 33lb per base spring? And 1g per lever right? I have two charts that came with it
 
SlantedDart said:
I have to figure out the lingo with talking to people on adjustments. The base is set to 550 at zero turns. So add 33lb per base spring? And 1g per lever right? I have two charts that came with it
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I’d run the base up to 1k and start making passes on it.

The disc wears from the outside in. As it wears in it gets more aggressive because you have more surface area.

As it’s coming in, start dropping the plate load down. I think you’ll need to be no more than 600 or so pounds of base load. Probably a bit less.

Use your counterweight to get the clutch locked up at high rpm.

That is assuming they sent you an HCF disc and not the other disc material. You want the most aggressive disc to use the least amount of base load you can.

If you screw anything up (it’s actually pretty hard to screw up) it will most likely be in the burnout.

Even with 1k base load that’s not a lot of load, and when you do the burn out you need to get the tires spinning. I make sure the water is spread far enough towards the starting line so that when you roll to the edge of the water you’ve made a complete revolution of the tires.

If the dude running the water box doesn’t do send a crew guy up there and have him do it. That dude and the track aren’t paying for your parts so make sure you don’t let them do something to a stick car because they don’t have a clue.

Once the tires are spinning you don’t want to drive through the clutch at the finish of the burnout.

Once I let go of the line lock and the car starts rolling forward I push in the clutch. I do not let tire speed and engine speed catch up to each other before I push in the clutch. You can easily miss and drive through the clutch.

If you do drive through the clutch you have to get the disc out and glass bead it. Then you start over breaking in the disc.
 
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Got it back on the road. Couple speed bumps but got it figured out. Guys over at Tick performance helped out with getting a badass throw out bearing installed. Initially this release bearings for a t56. This release bearing retracts unlike most hydraulic release bearings. Specifically made for weighted finger clutches. Check out their YouTube video on it. They retro fitted it for a tkx. It mounts to the bell rather than the trans. Making it easy for removal, along with a dry break fitting. I had to swap to a 15/16 bore master. Cut a few holes in bell for air gap for clutch disc and weights.
Took the car out for a few hours. Honestly drives the same other than a little squeak from the disc while engaging, kinda the nature of the beast with sintered iron disk. Very happy with the set up and can’t wait to make passes in it… just in time for the winter.
 
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