Anybody using air shifting

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B3422w5

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Where did you mount your bottle?
Do you like it regards more consistency
Do’s and Dont’s
How long do the 10oz bottles last
Do you turn the bottle on after the burnout, then turn it off after the pass
 
Mounted on rollcage within reach strapped in. 10 Bottle lasts me more than a season. I turn the bottle on in the morning and off when loading in trailer to go home. This is all drag race only, not street driving.
 
We leave the bottle on all the time on the SS Duster.
The bottle last two years and a huge number of races.
It definitely helps the consistency of the runs!
 
GTX JOHN said:
We leave the bottle on all the time on the SS Duster.
The bottle last two years and a huge number of races.
It definitely helps the consistency of the runs!
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Looking at the Biondo setup for reverse manual turbo action 3 speed setup. With an rpm switch they offer as well.
 
We adjust the RPM shift point for how fast we want
the car to perform. We play our card pretty close to the
vest unless we hit a Heads Up race. Then we turn the wick up
and let the Duster EAT!
 
I have two bottles…. but have only refilled one once. My bottle is mounted within reach so I can turn it off/on at will. I’m pretty much a hobby racer so saying the bottle has been in there for three years isn’t saying much. Used the ACD shift timer for years, but switched to the Digital Delay unit when I rewired the car. The air shift is much more consistent on my 1-2 shift for sure.

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A body said:
I have two bottles…. but have only refilled one once. My bottle is mounted within reach so I can turn it off/on at will. I’m pretty much a hobby racer so saying the bottle has been in there for three years isn’t saying much. Used the ACD shift timer for years, but switched to the Digital Delay unit when I rewired the car. The air shift is much more consistent on my 1-2 shift for sure.

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Thanks for the info Jay.
I didn’t know you could mount the bottle horizontally. I am looking to use the digital delay Rpm controller too.
Thinking it will help my deal, and make it easier, especially with all the 1/8 racing, to pay more attention to my opponent and less driving/ shifting the car.
Any input on how much lag you see between where you have the rpm set and where it actually shifts? Buddy told me even with air, the 1-2 shift can be 200-300 different than what you think it is… in other words, he had to set it at 67/6800 to have it actually shift where he wanted it at 7k, obviously even more it you are shifting it yourself. I don’t have playback or data loggin, so was surprised to hear that.
Trying to somewhat put the Jurassic era in the rear view mirror
 
B3422w5 said:
Where did you mount your bottle?
Do you like it regards more consistency
Do’s and Dont’s
How long do the 10oz bottles last
Do you turn the bottle on after the burnout, then turn it off after the pass
Click to expand...
There was a guy at Bithlo racetrack In Orlando that everyone called Mr Consistently who won almost every week. He had all the electronics and an air shifter.
 
This is how mounted the bottle.
I like that it’s consistent.
Bottle lasts forever.
I turn bottle on in the staging lanes and off on the return road. I’m OCD and like to have a pattern so I don’t forget anything.

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It has been my experience that shifting on time is more consistent for me. Someone earlier in the tread had a digital delay shift timer. That's what I use. Every 3 speed transmission braket car I ever had ran quicker if you short shift the 1-2 shift. We shift 1-2 at 1.65 seconds which is 6400 rpm for us and 2-3 at 3.80 seconds which is 6800 for us. Plus with the digital delay timer you can start the timer by rpm or trans brake release.
 
tvt59 said:
It has been my experience that shifting on time is more consistent for me. Someone earlier in the tread had a digital delay shift timer. That's what I use. Every 3 speed transmission braket car I ever had ran quicker if you short shift the 1-2 shift. We shift 1-2 at 1.65 seconds which is 6400 rpm for us and 2-3 at 3.80 seconds which is 6800 for us. Plus with the digital delay timer you can start the timer by rpm or trans brake release.
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I wish I would have bought the biondo time and rpm shift activator opposed to just the rpm one. I have been wanting to try shifting by time because I have heard its more consistent.
 
71Demon528 said:
I wish I would have bought the biondo time and rpm shift activator opposed to just the rpm one. I have been wanting to try shifting by time because I have heard its more consistent.
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If you go to the Million dollar braket race. I almost never see anyone shifting on rpm.
 
I’m still shifting off of rpm. The present 904 takes 200 rpm to shift 1-2 and 100-150 to make the 2-3. That’s comparing what I have the shift rpm set at and what the racepak shows for rpm. That can vary as the 727 I was running was 4-500 on the 1-2. That was later dropped to around 2-300 after Pro Trans went through it when I was having other issues. If I’m running nostalgia series races (no air shift) I’ll often “tickle” the 8k high end rpm chip in the 1-2. The damn RPMs just come up so quick! Two step at 4k, 6000 stall. Pretty short window to work with.

In the ole Mirada we started with the shift light at 6k. It’s a race car and rpm’s are king right?? Finally at a test we dropped the shift light to 5500…. Well guess what, car picked up. Later it gained more going from 4.56 to 4.10. That thing was a tractor motor! Funny looking back….. manual shift I was probably actually shifting at 64-6500 rpm. Interesting how much time/rpm can go by from “light on, see light, make arm pull shifter, transmission completes shift”.
 
A body said:
I’m still shifting off of rpm. The present 904 takes 200 rpm to shift 1-2 and 100-150 to make the 2-3. That’s comparing what I have the shift rpm set at and what the racepak shows for rpm. That can vary as the 727 I was running was 4-500 on the 1-2. That was later dropped to around 2-300 after Pro Trans went through it when I was having other issues. If I’m running nostalgia series races (no air shift) I’ll often “tickle” the 8k high end rpm chip in the 1-2. The damn RPMs just come up so quick! Two step at 4k, 6000 stall. Pretty short window to work with.

In the ole Mirada we started with the shift light at 6k. It’s a race car and rpm’s are king right?? Finally at a test we dropped the shift light to 5500…. Well guess what, car picked up. Later it gained more going from 4.56 to 4.10. That thing was a tractor motor! Funny looking back….. manual shift I was probably actually shifting at 64-6500 rpm. Interesting how much time/rpm can go by from “light on, see light, make arm pull shifter, transmission completes shift”.
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Spot on
 
This is the set up i used before I switched to the glide. Worked great. I never turned off the air for the Burnout as I only go to around 5500. You could always mount your bottle in the trunk and turn it on for the day. I think you can get around 400 shifts out of a 10oz bottle is what I was told. I still have the setup for sale if your interested ?

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HuntedDuckV351 said:
This is the set up i used before I switched to the glide. Worked great. I never turned off the air for the Burnout as I only go to around 5500. You could always mount your bottle in the trunk and turn it on for the day. I think you can get around 400 shifts out of a 10oz bottle is what I was told. I still have the setup for sale if your interested ?

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I have a TA shifter I really like with the console I have switches mounted to.
 
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