Anybody using Driven brand HR-2 oil in their slant?

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cruiser

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Guys/Gals: My engine builder swears that this is the only oil to use in my newly rebuilt slant six in my 1974 Duster. Completely stock rebuild, not racing or turbo - ing it. Has anyone used this stuff. Pricy at $10.00 per quart. What oil do you use in your stock slanty? I've heard that off the shelf NAPA store brand oil is perfectly okay in these motors.

Thanks - cruiser

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I use it in BB mopars. I like it. Mixing in ZDDP to modern oil is foolish, the detergent fights the zinc. It can't work as designed, but they don't bother to tell you that,
 
I use the Lucas Hot Rod and Classic 10w30. It has high levels of ZDDP and no detergent.
 
Guys/Gals: My engine builder swears that this is the only oil to use in my newly rebuilt slant six in my 1974 Duster.
I think if there’s even a remote possibility of a warranty consideration somewhere in the future, you've answered your own question right out of the gate, Bob.

Now, after the engine has fully broken-in and is no longer covered by the rebuilders warranty…..

And NAPA oil used to be Ashland (Valvoline) back when I managed the Savage and Egan stores (early 90’s). May still be the case, but I no longer know for certain.
 
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I've heard that off the shelf NAPA store brand oil is perfectly okay in these motors.
That's absolutely right. For less than half the cost, get the lowest price synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30 at Napa or Walmart or Costco or Amazon or wherever you shop. For a stock slanty, that Driven is overkill. For peace of mind, and to stay in the good graces of your engine builder, maybe run it for one oil change in case something goes wrong during or just after break-in.

And NAPA oil used to be Ashland (Valvoline) back when I managed the Savage and Egan stores (early 90’s). May still be the case, but I no longer know for certain.
Last I knew, Napa oil was made by Valvoline. But Ashland spun off Valvoline into its own company, which was recently bought up by Saudi Aramco.
 
That's absolutely right. For less than half the cost, get the lowest price synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30 at Napa or Walmart or Costco or Amazon or wherever you shop. For a stock slanty, that Driven is overkill. For peace of mind, and to stay in the good graces of your engine builder, maybe run it for one oil change in case something goes wrong during or just after break-in.


Last I knew, Napa oil was made by Valvoline. But Ashland spun off Valvoline into its own company, which was recently bought up by Saudi Aramco.
What's your opinion of the Lucas oil?
 
I use it in my mildly built 340, it came highly recommended. And yes, its pricey, but oil is the life-blood of your motor, always use good stuff, even if its a different brand.
That's absolutely right. For less than half the cost, get the lowest price synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30 at Napa or Walmart or Costco or Amazon or wherever you shop. For a stock slanty, that Driven is overkill. For peace of mind, and to stay in the good graces of your engine builder, maybe run it for one oil change in case something goes wrong during or just after break-in.
Driven makes a break-in oil as well :) But I agree, its probably overkill to run it in a stock slanty
 
Guys/Gals: My engine builder swears that this is the only oil to use in my newly rebuilt slant six in my 1974 Duster. Completely stock rebuild, not racing or turbo - ing it. Has anyone used this stuff. Pricy at $10.00 per quart. What oil do you use in your stock slanty? I've heard that off the shelf NAPA store brand oil is perfectly okay in these motors.

Thanks - cruiser

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i run their oils in the dart and mustang. is it overkill for my stockish engines? maybe. I'd rather be safe then sorry though. the gp1 has 1200 ppm of zinc in it. I'm sure the hr oil is in that area too. i talked to the driven guys while on sick66. i used to run the hr oil and when i built this motor it was recommended to go to the gp oil. the driven guy (forget his name) who developed their oils said i was much better off with the gp oil.

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What's your opinion of the Lucas oil?
I'm not a fan. ZDDP levels over 2000 ppm have shown to cause pitting and spalling in engines. That's twice as much as in oils that perform really well in OHV flat tappet engines.
 
The Driven oil is great stuff. It will serve well in any of the engines mentioned in this thread. I'd prefer not to pay that much, but that's a decision with which each person has to be comfortable.
 
Guys/Gals: My engine builder swears that this is the only oil to use in my newly rebuilt slant six in my 1974 Duster. Completely stock rebuild, not racing or turbo - ing it. Has anyone used this stuff. Pricy at $10.00 per quart. What oil do you use in your stock slanty? I've heard that off the shelf NAPA store brand oil is perfectly okay in these motors.

Thanks - cruiser

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On a new flat tappet cam engine, I'd keep the zinc levels at least 1200 ppm. That's good oil that he recommended, especially on a new engine. My slant with over 100k miles gets just rotella T4 from walmart.
 
I run Valvoline VR1 in my flat tappet engines.. I have been running it since 2012 just after the breakin oil on my flat tappet comp cam. 0 issues. Walmart sells it for around $26 bucks for 5 quarts.

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I run Valvoline VR1 in my flat tappet engines.. I have been running it since 2012 just after the breakin oil on my flat tappet comp cam. 0 issues. Walmart sells it for around $26 bucks for 5 quarts.
I run the VR-1 10w-30 in my Duster. Good stuff
 
Has anyone even had a cam/lifter failure in a slant 6? If I had a slant, I'd be tempted to run the cheapest oil I could find.
 
Driven is good. Amsoil, Pen Grade, VR1 and few others.

The thing that kills me with a lot of people on here with oil is you go and spend thousands (or 10’s) of dollars on building an engine, then you want to be a cheep f**k and get the cheapest oil you can buy. For real, oil is the blood of your motor. Spend the few extra bucks and buy the good stuff.
 
Spend the few extra bucks and buy the good stuff.
For a completely stock slant six where you can damn near open the valves by hand? In the OP's application, pricey oil is a waste of money unless it's to stay in his builder's good graces like S'cuder mentioned.
 
VR1 is a great product for our older cars. Been running 20w50 in my 360 for more than 20 years!
 
I'm not a fan. ZDDP levels over 2000 ppm have shown to cause pitting and spalling in engines. That's twice as much as in oils that perform really well in OHV flat tappet engines.
What would be a good recommendation for someone on a budget?
 
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