ARP Crank Studs for 318LA

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73 dart sport

Work To Live
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On the rear main the oil pump resides over one of the main bolts. The ARP studs are way too long. I have looked at every possible solution and dont really like any of them. Any ideas???

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73 dart sport said:
Thanks, That's what I ended up doing.You would figure ARP Fasteners would fit the application....Guess not. :salut:
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Actually you should have the oil pump housing milled, spot mill the main, and shorten the stud JUST A BIT and it all works. And don't forget, HAVE THE MAINS LINE BORED AFTER INSTALLING STUDS!!!!!


This is hot roddin buddy! Hammer, hacksaw, and torch time. If I remember I'll photograph my block since it's on the stand right now and show you what to do.
 
my arp studs are that way to, had the one under the oilpump shortenend slightly and the other ones suport the windagetray anyway ;)
 
Order the 12 pt nuts fromARP, and trim the stud down. No modification of the pump is necessary. I dont like using a factory bolt after I had the studs in to align bore. And to install the studs or better bolts, the mains must be align honed.
 
I have been informed from ARP that they were not aware of this problem and purchasing a ARP bolt that is the stock length is the correct way. I have to buy it from CV Products (FYI there number is 1-800-448-1223) Will cost around 10.00 shipped to my door. I started with a very good base and didn't have to turn the crank. Had the whole assembly balanced and they said it was extremly straight for a stock crank. I installed the crank with the ARP studs in place and all the clearances on all 5 journals was .0015 and can rotate it by hand. I was told by the machine shop that if it would rotate by hand after I torgued the studs I didn't have to linebore it. If it would bind up at all I would have it Linebored no questions.
 
I cut shortened my stud and run the 12 point nut without the washer. The reason it does not fit is that the ARP stud kit also fits the B/RB and the stud in question would work fine on those motors. If you use a bolt use two because the clamping forces for the studs and bolts are differnent.

Chuck
 
340mopar said:
I cut shortened my stud and run the 12 point nut without the washer. The reason it does not fit is that the ARP stud kit also fits the B/RB and the stud in question would work fine on those motors. If you use a bolt use two because the clamping forces for the studs and bolts are differnent.

Chuck
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Thanks Chuck, Looking into it :burnout:
 
The fact that it turns is not a big deal. The question is, how flat and true are the journals? Studs will pull them out, but may not be enough to pinch the crank with the bearings. That doesnt mean it will last, or that the oil film will be good enough. I have most of the fancy measuring tools. But I can only measure the bearing bore size and taper. I may not be able to see deflection. Not that it's uncommon to think like your shop does. I know of a local BUSCH series engine "builder" that doesnt cut valve seats in the new heads, becuase "the roller springs are so stiff, after a lap or two, they seal just fine..." Another one of his quotes..."Why are you so particular on the bore size (main bores)? When it's all bolted together and torqued, the bearing clearance will average out to be fine..." That was when I questioned the results after I had him align hone a block. I've known him since he was in his early 20s (over 15 years) and was the disassembly guy at a well known shop. He's got a decent rep, which is scary to me. He is a great guy, but the "meticulous" went out of his work years ago. Needless to say, he does not do any work for me anymore.
 
CV products hooked me up. Part number HAR2.750-5 is the correct ARP bolt x 2. On another note, the concerns about Lineboring. I'm not building a stroker or extreme 318 just a good dependable running driver.
 
73 dart sport said:
I'm not building a stroker or extreme 318 just a good dependable running driver.
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So? You went thru the expense of buying the best parts. And those parts cause a ripple effect that the right machining will fix. You could be building a Honda, or a stock 1bbl225/ and the fact remains. You would have been better served by re-using the old bolts. If it's a stock rebuild, I would have done that. Just me tho...
 
moper said:
So? You went thru the expense of buying the best parts. And those parts cause a ripple effect that the right machining will fix. You could be building a Honda, or a stock 1bbl225/ and the fact remains. You would have been better served by re-using the old bolts. If it's a stock rebuild, I would have done that. Just me tho...
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Yep! But I have my reasons. Bolt stretch is more likely than crushing 3" of solid cast steel more than before in this case.... Maybe I should move a couple of caps around to get the results you want to hear about. :lol:
 
Arp main studs and head studs,along with other arp fasteners throughout my stroker,just makes me feel better knowing they're there and with the money spent on this engine i'm happpier knowing i've got the best in it.... :angel9:
 
All I want to hear is it works for you. I'd prefer to hear it worked for you for years. I say what I do during a build. I do it in a way that I dont get the call from a customer or friend saying they have "stuff" in the oil, or asking why the oil pressure "isnt what it used to be". You can do whatever you feel is adequate for you...no big deal really. Sorry if I gave you the impression it was crutial to me...lol.
 
`I was reading an article where by using a stud kit it helps decrease crankshaft deflection due to the fact that it holds the main cap better in position than a regular bolt. I have not heard of having to have it linebored because you use a stud kit.I am actually having an engine built and am using a stud kit so I wil talk to the machinist to find out more information on lineboring. Glad to run across this topic. Any more surprises I may run into!

Bobby
 
1969340dart said:
`I was reading an article where by using a stud kit it helps decrease crankshaft deflection due to the fact that it holds the main cap better in position than a regular bolt. I have not heard of having to have it linebored because you use a stud kit.I am actually having an engine built and am using a stud kit so I wil talk to the machinist to find out more information on lineboring. Glad to run across this topic. Any more surprises I may run into!

Bobby
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The studs Boddy put a lot of presure on the caps. They need to be torques 3 times to the proper setting with the crank out, then checked at a good machine shop or withthe proper tools by an experianced person. Most times they will move enough you have to re-align the caps to center again. But when this is done some metal is removed but only a minimal amount or you end up with more weakness.


Does this make sense? Sometimes you get luck and the bore is ok, ut it is most times not the case from what I was told. I have even seen this happen with bolts too.

good luck with it!
 
I line hone and deck my blocks on all rebuilds, whether performance or stock. Sure it costs more but the factory really throws these motors together and yes, they are very forgiving on how far they can be out and still live but I just like to get everything exact as I can, this is what "blue printing" is. As far as the stock bolts, they are plenty strong for a small block. The main bolts are the same ones as the B/RB. Bottom line is that it is your motor and should built it the way you want and still feel comfortable with it.

Chuck
 
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