ARP Main bearing studs

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circlepilot

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Regarding the 225 that I'm building. I was going back through my notes and Dutra's book and started having one of those "did I make sure" moments. I went with the ARP studs on my main bearings. It was noted from forum members and in Dutra's book, about the possibility of blocking the oil ports to the main bearings using longer studs. What I did was screw the studs in until I could barely see the tip of the stud looking in the oil port, which was actually as far as the studs would go in because of the limit of threads on the stud. I did not use thread locker on the studs, as recommended "not" to use by other forum members. I'm well into the build and I hate it when you start "second guessing" things you have already done and hope you did it right.
Norm
 
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Does Doug say somewhere "WHY" main studs are needed on a slant 6? Or maybe a better question would be at "WHAT" point? I'm just curious as to "WHERE" on the performance scale anyone would think they are needed. @Charrlie_S for instance has run some stout numbers with nitrous involved and "I don't know" if he's ever used studs or not? Certainly, they will make the bottom end stronger, no doubt.
 
I have never used ARP bolts or studs, so I can't say when they become "Required". I do have a set of ARP main studs, head studs, on hand, and just had a set of 198 rods reconditioned with the ARP bolts, and balanced.
In any case they might not be "required", but they are insurance.
 
Does Doug say somewhere "WHY" main studs are needed on a slant 6? Or maybe a better question would be at "WHAT" point? I'm just curious as to "WHERE" on the performance scale anyone would think they are needed. @Charrlie_S for instance has run some stout numbers with nitrous involved and "I don't know" if he's ever used studs or not? Certainly, they will make the bottom end stronger, no doubt.

Doug, (in his book) doesn't say to install studs, vs bolts, he only points out that "after market stuff" may be too long and obstruct the oil passage. What I was eluding to was, I screwed the studs in until you could barely see them (with a light) coming into the oil passage port and stopped right there. At that point all of the threads of the stud were captured by the block. what was causing me to second guess myself, was reviewing the example picture in his book on page 80, picture 23. I'm sure the the oil port, doesn't come through the threaded portion of the block, but through the hole you can look into? So I take it that if the stud isn't "grossly visible" in the hole, you are good. Comments?
Norm
 
When you blow the head gasket with too much boost. It might be time to start thinking about studs.
 
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