auto to 4speed

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Don't forget to weld on the reinforcement plate for the outer Z bar frame ball stud. You can purchace it from stephens.
 
hi 71 duster,how much sentimental value does your car have to you. is it a race car or is it an all original clean car.
did you ever think of selling it and buying a real 4 speed car.
 
71Duster said:
I priced out the Keisler set up -ouch-

I was jsut at a car show and admireing the 4 speed cars and thinking how fun it would be to bang gears with a 340 but not sure what it would cost to do so.

My bank account is always in danger when I get bored.
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There are some less expensive alternatives to Keisler if you want to put a 5-speed in. Even putting a 4-speed in can be a pretty affordable project if you do some swap meet trolling. I have a customer who got about $500 in clutch and flywheel parts from me and found everything else including a used 4-speed for about $1200. Look for guys who have yanked out the 4-speed to put in a 5-speed and they generally have a bunch of stuff sitting around collecting dust. This forum is probably a great place to put out feelers for the parts you need.

AP
 
pntastar69 said:
Small hole? Far from it. You need to have clearance for the 1-2 and 3-4 shifter rods as they go over the structural hump support. Remember, when cutting the "small hole", don't cut thru the structural support.

The 4 spd hump will somewhat center itself on the existing floor tunnel. Trace the outline of the 4 speed hump with a magic marker on the floor and cut approx. 1.5" inward from the magic marker line. Once the hole is cut, mount the trans w/shifter in place and attach the rods. Trim as necessary for rod clearance.
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It's a repop hump so the easy fitment kind of goes out the window.

The small hole is to get the trans/shifter location correct, then trace the outline of the hump as a guide for the bigger hole. Small hole is for locating the hump, which the poster asked about, not final install.

sheesh...
 
Contact blu340dart, I happen to know that he just listed almost all of the components needed for the conversion on ebay. Just a little inside tip from his Bro, LOL!!! Geof
 
How do I contact blu340dart?
What is his phone number or complete email address so that I can get my conversion parts ordered?
Bruce Shaw
 
fstfish66 said:
no need now for that drilled crank,, you can get a roller bearing that goes in the torque register hole now,,and its a item you can get at napa,,,about 20 bucks ithink,, so start looking for parts one at a time,,,
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do you know the part number for that peice for a small block A833?
 
with this bushing you dont need to drill the crank if it is originally an automatic crank right? this bushing just goes right into the converter register? no other mods nescessary?
 
well u can have a manuel valve body race tranny, and an 8 inch convertor for less then 2k....also that means good consistant times at the track..

just my 2 cents

but four speeds are so much fun..good luck
 
can some mopar genis send me some sort of list for all i need to do this swap. i have a lot of parts. i have not heard of that frame reinforcement. where can i get it. even new. i am hopeing to do most of the swap this comming week and it sounds like i will need it and it should be one of the first things i knock out
 
tyler_s18 said:
sweet/ ya its helpfull. i just need to find that frame plate to see if i can make it myself
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Tyler here's a picture of what the plate looks like:
FB676.jpg


Top hole is for the ball stud, bottom 2 holes are plug welded to frame. If you need picture of the placement I can get you some from my Dart.

If you don't care about originality, you can make the same basic deal from a piece of 1/8" flat steel stock.
 
ok. i am not to worried about original. it will not be numbers matching at all. so ya if i could see where to put it that would be sweet. its just so the z-bar ball stud wont move or bend the frame right?
 
mshred said:
with this bushing you dont need to drill the crank if it is originally an automatic crank right? this bushing just goes right into the converter register? no other mods nescessary?
Click to expand...

You can use a bushing in the converter recess with a pilot bearing pressed into it. Just make sure the input splines do not bottom out on your new bearing. We do this with the TKO every day.
 
is the bushing weak? or does it matter?

i would think that the way the factories did this is stronger?
 
RPMmachine said:
is the bushing weak? or does it matter?

i would think that the way the factories did this is stronger?
Click to expand...

The factory acutally used a solid oilite bronze bushing, which is OK, but a needle roller bearing gives constant low friction support to the input shaft and does not get wallowed out over time. Using the torque converter hub as the seat for the bushing is a time proven method of handling your problem. In fact, Mopar Performance has some bushing/bearing combos available in their catalog for the same purpose.
 
so using the tourqe converter hub to support the input shaft is stronger than the factory way?
 
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