B-body disc brakes

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Optik

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will the disc brakes and control arms from a early 70's Charger work on my 64 Dart? it is the coke-bottle style charger, not a 68-70 general lee-style. it is in a local junkyard and i'm surprised no one has grabbed the stuff yet. all the a-bodies in the yard are completely stripped to the shells.
thanks!
-Tim
 
The interchange on B-body to A-body disc brakes is complicated, and I wouldn't even bother.
For '73 up A-body brake systems, these might work.... '71 and '72 B-body rotors won't work. '73 B-body rotors should if they are the slider type on 10 7/8 rotors, '76-'78 B-body will. '76-'78 B-body Calipers may work with '73 A-body disc setups if they are are on 10 7/8 rotors. B-body steering knuckles won't work, they are too tall. Whew.
 
You might also call up Roger at AAJ Brakes, up in Portland, Oregon. He has a cool operation, out of his home shop, and knows Chrysler brake interchange like the back of his hand. His specialty is disc brake conversions on our cars, but with only Chrysler components,i.e. Volare.

(503) 890-1469

Try to not talk his ear off too much. He's busy with work.:)
 
mopar_nocar said:
Are you sure?

I've been running M-body (Diplomat) knuckles for about 3 years. I thought those were the same knuckles as the B-body. I could be wrong.

sb
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M-body and '73-ish B-body used isolated K members, and the spindles are too long.
 
goldduster318 said:
They are the same as the F/M/J and they work fine. Plenty of people using them right now without failures.
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I know EXACTLY what they are. You do whatever you want to do...but they do not "work fine".
 
Outsider said:
76-'78 B-body Calipers may work with '73 A-body disc setups if they are are on 10 7/8 rotors.
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'76 and later B-body calipers, caliper brackets, and 11.75" rotors will bolt right on to '73-'76 A-body spindles, making for a handy monster brake upgrade.
 
goldduster318 said:
Have any proof of that? This article, and others that i have seen discuss this topic specifically
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/spindles.shtml
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Are you asking if I have a broken ball joint stud?
I don't need to prove anything...I use the correct parts, and when I get on the internet, I don't recommend using combinations that are KNOWN to break, I excercise a little judgement since there are people on this forum who are not as experienced as others. If someone broke a ball joint, and put their car into a person walking down the street, It won't be because of me and bullsh*t internet advice. I've been doing this for a very long time.
Also, I was one of the FIRST BigBlockDart.com Members. I helped Bill get ready for his first Booth @ the Nats by doing his signage. I did his T-shirts as well. Don't send me to BBD to read articles.
 
MadScientistMat said:
'76 and later B-body calipers, caliper brackets, and 11.75" rotors will bolt right on to '73-'76 A-body spindles, making for a handy monster brake upgrade.
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Yea, I posted that off the top of my head so I missed a couple configurations that work. When I posted that I was trying to think of all the combinations, and I probably didn't make much sense at all.
 
I have never seen pictures or heard of anyone having the ball joint stud break because of running this combo! Not only would it have to be binding, but it would have to bind nearly all the time to break the stud. There isn't much load taken by the upper ball joint or control arm in this type of suspension setup. The lowers take MUCH, MUCH more load. With the car on the ground, the ball joint stud runs almost completely vertical. The bumpstops are controlling the range of motion as well. There isn't much possible compression in this system either.

I would be more concerned with someone re-using the 40 year old control arms. Having had the balljoint pop out of its threads (the ball joint tightens down fine, and then you're just driving, hit a bump and it pops out), I can tell you it handles a little funny but it doesn't make you run over small children either. I'm on my 3rd passenger side control arm as a result of that. I have the "correct" parts.
 
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