Back half Dart

-
S

Swingin'70

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2005
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Location
Geneva, IL
I was just wondering if anyone has done a back half to their A-body. If there were any major problems you ran into in the process please share.

I'm going to cut from the hack job sub frame connectors back to the bumper and hopefully keep the stock floor panels. My teacher did it to his Dart and he runs in the high 8's. But he back halfed it a lot different than I'm planning.

I've been back half-ing a 54' Vette at work and I am hooked. I know I'm more than capable. I was just wondering if anyone had any advice, and if you got any pictures that would be awsome. Thanks a lot. -Derek
 
That is so cool. That kind of stuff was exactly what I wanted to see.
Were those kits, that all came in a package like moroso or like rear frame rail kits?
I doing something similar but I'm planning on making everything myself. I have a good idea how to make everything myself. And I'm fortunate enough to work at a shop that builds really fast race cars. Some are for bracket racing, most are just street cars. But i work at Competition Fabrications. I'm not a bad tin man.

I have a lot of plans for my 70 Dart, when I'm done the only thing that is going to be stock org. is body panels, roof+interior liner, dash pad+dash steel frame, then the stock frame and suspension. But a lot is going to be done in my garage, but I wanna go bracet racing.

But Im hooked on stuff that looks nice like that and doin the kind of stuff you guys did I just Dont like a lot of the stock components.

But thanks a lot guys I appreciate the feedback. -Derek
 
Like DaDart said - measure at least twice . Here's a tip for you. Go to a local RV dealer and buy some RV levelling jacks. They are (should be) a fine thread and really help a lot to get everything level and parallel to the nth degree. Way better than jackstands, equal to the weight requirements and aren't really that expensive. Good luck.:thumbup:
Daryl
 
The kit that I am using is keeping the stock frame rails in the original location. I wanted to keep them there as it would make it easier to retain the back seat. I am going to use this car for putting my kids in and going to the local Sonic for diner and also to go bracket racing. I will also take this car on cruises. There will be a row of motors in the shop for what ever I am going to do. Here is a link to the CA chassisworks site.

https://www.cachassisworks.com/iwwidb.pvx?;multi_item_submit

I am using the 6270 type setup. I bought the prostreet package U from them. Very nice quality pieces.
 
Swingin '70, you can check out my Scamp threads in the "Member Restorations" area. We put a four link in it and a strut front end. I originally was just going to back half the car but, well, you know how it goes. One thing leads to another and before you know it all you have left of the original car is the roof and quarters. :)
 
Wow, thanks a lot guys. I love the idea for the RV jackstands, i was wondering where i could get some big ones so i can accually work under the car without laying on the ice cold floor. And Jones...holy crap that is bad ***. Very nice work you have there.

I got offered a frame rail kit with a 4-link over the weekend. I couldnt stand how generic it looked, so I'm dead set on cutting and tig welding everything myself. Then I can decide on the thickness, size, and anything really. Ever since I started to work for Comp Fab. I kind of fell for tig welding because its so clean and no splatter. And now whenever I see a mig welded cage or anything really, the welds practicly poke me in the eye I spot them out so easily. I'm gonna go as far as making my own moly ladder bars and probably aluminum trunk floor.

I'm goin nuts on the motor too. I'm going with an in-line electric water pump and electric fuel pump, so I don't have to run that goofy lookin timing cover. I'm plannin on fabbing my own. Then i can make my own motor plate. I decided on all that because I didnt like those cut outs on the manufactured plate like Jones has got. No offense of course.

But thanks a lot guys for all the help and pictures. With all this help this project should be great.
 
No problem, I don't like the way they look either but for a $100 and most of the work is done for you it was good deal for me. It won't be so ugly by the time I get done profile milling it though.
 
I was planning on cutting out a lot of sheet metal. Firewall, inner fenderwells, stock floors, and trunk floors etc. First of all are they worth anything if I were to take the time to cut all the spot welds to save everything as one piece, would they be worth anything to be that carefull doing so?

At work when we cut everything but the skin on a 68' Charger we talked to MoparCity and they still owe the cutomer credit for everything. But would sheet metal like that be worth the labor involved? or could I possibly charge for labor?

Just a thought, cuz I'm sure some resto guy would pay good money for them. But what do you guys think that stuff would be worth, I wouldnt know where to start.
 
We'll I've started gutting the car of windows, dash, interior panels, anything that could burn or catch fire really. And I've started building up a 9" rear end. 4.86 gears.

But anyways I'm still debating on cutting everything with a spot weld cutter. Does anyone think the firewall, floor tubs, to the trunk with frame rails is worth anything in one or two pieces cut away from the body?
 
It probably is to someone, as there are many rusted hulls being restored. Are you referring to the front with cross member or rear frame assembly with the floor I will be in the market for that type of thing soon!!
 
I am back half my 66 coronet with a kit from www. checkerracing .com the hole kit was 750.00 frame rails 4 link shocks coils over springs track bar all but i up gradeed to the QA1 shocks for my car . and it was 920.00 for all.
before i cut one thing i got a vid from chassis engineering that walks you though the hole job, i though i know what i was going but there are something i did not know and the job wouild have be done wrong. 40.00 cost and it saved my back half from going back. just my two cent here.

P2200031.JPG


P2210040.JPG


P2250061.JPG


P2210043.JPG


P2250062.JPG


P1260098.JPG


P1260095.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top