Backing plate seal and stud tool question.

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cudamark

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I'm restoring the stock Kelsey Hayes brake system on my '66 Valiant, I've found just about everything for it, except for the backing plate gaskets. Does anyone reproduce them? It's just a white foam gasket with a few holes, so, I can probably make them, but, I figured someone probably has made some new replacements. Can't seem to find them though. Also, I'm going to put new rotors on the hubs and find that the studs are swaged pretty tight against the hub. I'd like to get the proper cutter for that swage so I don't damage the hub. Who carries that tool? Thanks.
 
I’m betting Detroit muscle technology makes them
 
You would think so, but, it's not on their online catalog. It's pretty close to the filler neck foam gasket, so, it shouldn't be much effort for them to make one.
 
I emailed Goodson, but, I haven't heard back from them yet. They used to carry them, but, it's not in their online catalog anymore.
 
I would bet they are not swaged in which case you would just drive them out. A rotor is a lot thicker than a drum. That being said I would let someone chime in that has actually done this job.
 
No, these are staked in there pretty good. I've run across it before when I had my shop, and had the tools to cut them. When I retired, I sold all the brake tools with the lathe. Now I need one of course!
 
Goodson P/N ST500 is the 1/2 inch version and ST562 is the 9/16 version the ST500 is $94.99 and the ST562 is on clearance at $36.80
 
There was a member at moparts who made various size cutters. I don't know if he still does. Annular cutter is about the same thing except they dont call out the inside diameter in descriptions. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BHJ6PYC/?tag=fabo03-20
9/16 deep hole saw with pilot removed will work too. Arbor and hole saw will be about 20 dollars.
 
I decided to give it a try making the gaskets. I found a packing foam sheet the correct thickness and density. Took what remnants I had of the old gasket and made a template on a sheet of paper. After a couple of tries, I came up with one good enough to use as a pattern for tracing the features on the foam. It came out pretty good I think. You don't really see them once they're installed, so, it doesn't have to be perfect, just good enough to seal and keep the backing plate from buzzing.

gaskets.jpg


Gaskets2.jpg


Gaskets3.jpg
 
Yes it does,

DMT has them surely though.
 
DMT lists 2 backing plate gaskets, both round, both with the same spindle/drum pic.
Both listed as having different size spindle holes, but outer diameter is not listed.

Original is that odd shape above.

I noticed on my spindle the surface shows circles from the machining process, as well as rust pits.
The foam gasket definitely held moisture against the spindle surface within the air pockets in the foam.

I was going to cut out gaskets from foam, as I have some, but now I'm thinking why recreate something that obviously failed and caused rust?

My understanding is the foam is there to prevent vibration noise, is this true?

If so, wouldn't it make more sense to use gasket material?

My 62 Dart uses the same foam material between the taillight housings and the body - and guess what, rust on both surfaces that matches the foam.
I was happy to find DMT makes these, now I'm thinking I'll make my own out of gasket material.

Mopar 66-72 Disc & Drum Brake Spindle to Backing Plate Gasket
 
In all the years that i have been rebuilding these brake, i just make my own out of foam packing sheet material.
Easy Peasy.

65-72 A Body Disc Brakes #5 016 (Copy).JPG
 
The foam is porous. It compresses to much thinner and more dense where bolted and fill voids between the mating parts everywhere else. Moisture that does get in can evaporate out. Thin sheet metal would probably rust away faster without the foam. After 50+ years, of course there will be some rust. I suppose if you painted all these parts that weren't painted the foam wouldn't be needed.
 
I use styrofoam plates. They work pretty good and don’t fall apart.
 
I missed the second question the first time. I’ve replaced rotors on my ‘72 dart with kelsey hayes and I definitely didn’t drill/cut the studs. It’s been almost a decade since I did it so I can’t quite remember placing them in a press, but I know for a fact they are a splined press fit for the drums on my ‘72 scamp.
 
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