Barbed fittings: Good or bad?

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Dusterdenovo

Dusterdenovo

Contentedly Old School
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Barbed fittings appear to be everywhere; certainly more available than OEM stuff.

Do they work? I don't want to assemble everything (heater hoses, Fuel lines, remote Oil Filter) and have a bunch of leaks when I fire up the new engine.

What about the gear-type hose clamps, would they help or completely unnecessary with these barbed fittings?

Here are a couple of examples:

100_7411.JPG
100_7549.JPG
100_7550.JPG
 
If you put a screw type clamp over the hose on a barb don't tighten too much or you might get those barb to cut through. Or you can tighten a zip tie on there (I do this sometimes), the added pressure from the zip tie will surely keep it from leaking.
If you use the correct hose size you'll find that once you push the hose on (using trans fluid or Vaseline for lube) you'll have to cut it off because it won't come off by pulling.

Treblig
 
those push on barbs are used on air hoses in just about every garage in america, and see 100 PSI of pressure all day long, every day

your oil pressure spikes where, 80 pounds cold?
goes down to 60 under load when warm

your fuel pump has no pressure going in, and 8 pounds going out

the water nipple, i dont know but OEM they came with spring type clamps
 
Clamps on all hoses. Only 2 of those barbed fittings are the push on style.
 
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those are push on style hose barbs. used them in an industrial setting for over 40 years. can be used for air or water under pressure. use a worm hose clamp as it will not cut though the hose as mentioned above unless you have a really ,really cheap thin walled hose. the only problem with using that style is if you have to disassemble it can be difficult to get the hose off intact
 
push on fittings need to be used with a hose made for that purpose and heating the hose is the best way to install only way to remove is to cut the hose off may be able to heat it up but not sure that will even work usually there is a slight difference in dimensions between regular clamp on and push on items and they shouldn't be interchanged
 
dodge71demon said:
Sorry but tool man is incorrect the first picture is push on you can tell by the plastic ring and the shape and how many barbs
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Yeah, I was just going to mention that - the fittings on the Oil Filter bypass fitting are the same style that Zombywoof identified as "push on"; the other 2 fittings are apparently just "barbed" as identified by Toolman.

BOTTOM LINE: Are any of you guys using these things on your engines? Or are they just "convenient bullshit" and I need to work harder at finding more OEM inspired stuff?
 
dodge71demon said:
push on fittings need to be used with a hose made for that purpose and heating the hose is the best way to install only way to remove is to cut the hose off may be able to heat it up but not sure that will even work usually there is a slight difference in dimensions between regular clamp on and push on items and they shouldn't be interchanged
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Also true.
 
Dusterdenovo said:
Yeah, I was just going to mention that - the fittings on the Oil Filter bypass fitting are the same style that Zombywoof identified as "push on"; the other 2 fittings are apparently just "barbed" as identified by Toolman.

BOTTOM LINE: Are any of you guys using these things on your engines? Or are they just "convenient bullshit" and I need to work harder at finding more OEM inspired stuff?
Click to expand...
If you do use the push on make sure you use the hose that they are designed for like dodge71demon mentioned. Geez guys, since when did a $1.50 hose clamp become such a issue?
 
Dusterdenovo said:
Yeah, I was just going to mention that - the fittings on the Oil Filter bypass fitting are the same style that Zombywoof identified as "push on"; the other 2 fittings are apparently just "barbed" as identified by Toolman.

BOTTOM LINE: Are any of you guys using these things on your engines? Or are they just "convenient bullshit" and I need to work harder at finding more OEM inspired stuff?
Click to expand...
Yes I use the "PUSH ON" stuff all the time but be sure that you get "PUSH ON" for both the hose and fittings and DO NOT clamp these you can buy the hose for pretty much any application you need MSC Industrial Supply is a good source or any PARKER store
 
Use AN or 37 degree (JIC) fittings when possible -- they are the same thing AN is an automotive term and JIC is industrial won't find much is 5/16 then if you really want to get confused deal with DIN or 24 degree fittings
 
There is a place called Fittingsandadapters.com that has all the brass and metal fittings for use with hose clamps. They have all the sizes that you will need. They have the barbed type and also the more of automotive type. Check it out. They aren't cheap but very nice. I've ordered a bunch of them for heater hose, bypass hose. They have all different sizes. They have the one for using an aftermarket intake with the larger bypass to the 69 down engines with the smaller fitting on the water pump.
 
I used the push-lock fittings on my fuel system for the fitech, and plan on using them for the trans cooler lines. When used with the appropriate hose, I could probably hang off them. They are SOLID. They DO NOT use clamps.
There are different tricks to get the hose on, heat gun, boiling water, etc, but I used this tool with a few drops of wd40, and it couldn't have been easier..
Koul Tools EZ-On AN Hose Presses 409
 
*ahem* - personally - do some research, spend some $$ - get the CORRECT fittings. Or go to Earl's etc. if you have to get fancy with it all. - - aren't a lot of those brass fittings actually PIPE fittings and not intended for automotive use???
 
"Most" of the threaded ends are tapered pipe thread.
 
yea - every brass fitting in the first post IS available via an automotive supplier - even those plugs. You want fancy - they do them in chrome!
 
dodge71demon said:
Very true on the "Barbed Fitting" but not for the "Push On"
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The "Dixon fittings" that zombywolf linked to are tapered and it looks like the fittings on the oil adapter are. I am sure some aren't. but "most" automotive applications are tapered pipe thread. Many plugs and fittings sealed with a flat gasket, o ring, or seal are straight thread and not tapered. (like a oil pan drain plug)
 
ScampMike said:
*ahem* - personally - do some research, spend some $$ - aren't a lot of those brass fittings actually PIPE fittings and not intended for automotive use???
Click to expand...

Amen Brother. I haven't come this far to do something goofy just to get the car back on the road. The "Push on" style seem valid enough given the input above, but the "barbed" fittings are giving me the heebie-jeebies and I think I'll look for something better.

BTW; the Bypass nipple was supplied by Edelbrock with the Air Gap manifold, the Fuel Pump inlet is 1/4" NPT, the threaded hole on the intake for the other 1/2" hose nipple is also 1/4" NPT, and these barbed fittings are the only thing available in ALL of the performance automotive shops up here in BC.

dodge71demon said:
Very true on the "Barbed Fitting" but not for the "Push On"
Click to expand...

The "push on" fittings on the Oil Filter Bypass are definitely NPT (tapered threads) as well.
 
Dusterdenovo said:
BOTTOM LINE: Are any of you guys using these things on your engines? Or are they just "convenient bullshit" and I need to work harder at finding more OEM inspired stuff?
Click to expand...

Bottom line:
I use what works, and those barbed fittings work.
I also use screw type clamps on EVERYTHING that requires a hose. (excepting nylon 12 fuel line) as I will use that purely as clampless "push on"
Yes, pulling them back off is a PIA but they don't pop off by themselves either like a radiator or heater hose can.
My car is a daily driver that does interstate runs on a fair regular basis, so my car is reliable as a rock and those barbed fittings are part of what makes it that way.
I don't give a hoot what other people say about it either, because they won't be the one on the side of the road in the middle of a desert trying to find a tow truck.:D
 
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